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05-17-2018, 10:10 AM | #1 |
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TIS for FCAB Change on an M
Does anyone have the TIS for changing the FCAB on an M? I'm really most interested in seeing the torque spec on the bolts. I've read in a few posts that it is 41 ft-lbs but I'd like to confirm it.
Last edited by elerner61; 05-17-2018 at 11:00 AM.. |
05-17-2018, 12:39 PM | #2 |
Midlife Crises Racing Silent but Deadly Class
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Drives: 2006 MZ4C, 2021 Tesla Model 3
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05-17-2018, 01:55 PM | #3 |
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05-21-2018, 12:48 PM | #4 |
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So replacing my FCABs went Ok this past weekend. I worked on the passenger side first and that (as always, for the first one) took considerably more time.
Here are some notes: - Unless your car is on a lift where you will have more room to maneuver and work, I can't imagine not having a removal tool to get the bushing off. $36 and worth every penny. https://www.ebay.com/itm/14PCS-Beari...item25e4bd6d9c - Using soapy water to coat the control arm and new bushing prior to installation is also a must. If the liquid isn't truly slippery in your hand then you need more soap. A deep, large socket and a 5 pound sledge worked great. Mark where the old FCAB was mounted on the control arm. Install the new one to the same spot and you won't need an alignment. - Lifting the new FCAB into position so you can bolt it up is the main challenge. A pry bar under the kingpin was a great suggestion someone had. I ended up using my jack to lift it. You'll never get it flush when trying to bolt it up. I was quite surprised that at 70K miles, my old FCAB looked pretty much brand new, it wasn't torn up at all. That said, it's possible the rubber had hardened (11 years) because I swapped to my summer tires/wheels over the weekend as well and I no longer seem to have a slight shimmy I was getting at around 75mph with my summer "sneakers". |
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