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      05-10-2013, 02:06 PM   #1
StickMon
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200 Clams for a Box with 2 Switches?

I was surprised to see that the Vanos Solenoid Switch Box was nearly $200.
Come on. It's a box with 2 switches and a $3 connector.
When I saw that the +12 V cable was another $200, that put me over the top.

I started thinking I should make some and sell them on eBay, but
A) I don't have that kind of time
B) I don't need the money
C) I couldn't profit off you guys

After a bit of research, I came up with this. Has more LEDs, and a diode and fuse in case you have brain fade and hook it up backwards.
Which switch is intake/exhaust and which pin is advance/retard is a bit of an educated guess based on the signal abbreviations and Google Translate.

Tischer sells the connector for $3, and the pins for about $2 each.
Everything else you can get from Radio Shack or equivalent.
RealOEM, and everybody else lists 2 possible pin types. One is rectangular 0.2x0.5mm. The other is square 0.75mm. No cutoff date is given. I'll buy a set of each and see what fits.

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Last edited by StickMon; 05-10-2013 at 08:36 PM..
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      05-10-2013, 03:03 PM   #2
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I don't need this at the moment, but it's interesting to see!
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      05-10-2013, 03:35 PM   #3
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I just ordered the connector and pins from Tischer, and a plastic project box and a couple of switches from DigiKey. Need to find some battery terminal aligators. Have everything else.
Looks like in total it will cost $30-$40, depending on how many parts you already have laying around.
I hope to never need it either, but if I do, I'll need it really badly.
Mostly I just wanted to prototype it for others to enjoy. I'll post pics and the complete costed parts list as soon as I have it together.
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      05-10-2013, 06:04 PM   #4
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Awsome.
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      05-15-2013, 12:45 AM   #5
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Freakingly awesome !!!
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      05-15-2013, 02:54 PM   #6
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Im really not familiar with the S54, I am curious what exactly this does?

Does it sort of allow you to manually override the VANOS, putting it in "advance" mode all the time, sort of like if you did a VANOS delete on a race engine? Or does it test the VANOS unit to ensure it is functioning properly?

Either way, helping your fellow enthusiasts save $160+ is great - so thanks for helping the community!
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      05-16-2013, 12:05 AM   #7
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It's not for driving. It's for removing/replacing the Vanos.
You have to connect your air compressor where it would usually get pressurized oil, then operate the solenoid valves to move the pistons extended, to detach them, and then retracted, so you can remove it.

Parts are coming in. Probably won't get it built until next month. Have 3 out-of-town trips and another all-night spacecraft track this month. Busy month.

It actually saves $360, because they charge an extra $200 for the cable to connect the box to 12V. I think for that I'll use a set of 10 AWG jumper cables that Pep Boys has for $10. I think it's 6ft long, so I can cut it in half and get 2 sets out of it.

Last edited by StickMon; 05-16-2013 at 12:11 AM..
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      05-16-2013, 12:56 AM   #8
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The alternative to this is to remove the vanos caps and move the actuators manually. This is what almost all of the DIYs out there do.
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      05-31-2013, 10:19 PM   #9
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Some Assembly Required

Parts are in, and I'm back in town.

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      05-31-2013, 10:43 PM   #10
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.. and This is how we do That

Cut a piece of board to fit inside the box.
Space the switches with washers and nuts.
Use little squares of board to shim the LEDs so that everything's at a suitable height to poke through the box and there's space above the board to mount the rest of the parts.

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Install the rest of the parts.
Ignore that the diode's the wrong way round in this picture.
I caught that right after, and fixed it.

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Notice how the connections to the switch are kris-crossed.
That's how toggle switches work.

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Affix drill template to box and drill away.
Be careful drilling large holes in soft material.
Best to drill small holes and enlarge them by hand with a reamer or a drill bit chucked up in a file handle.

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Starting to come together.
Even when drilling by hand you have to work up a slow succession of drill sizes.
I skipped one on the upper right hole and it ripped the plastic a little.

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Attach the cables. I stashed the fuse in the handle of the positive clamp.
Smaller clamps would have been nice, but this was the best I could find dirt cheap.

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Just add labels, and Bob's your Uncle!!

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      05-31-2013, 11:08 PM   #11
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Parts is Parts

Here's what I used. There's an infinite number of ways to build it.

Vanos mating connector, Tischer, 61138383300, $3.00
Leads with pins for above, qty 6, Tischer, 61130005199, $2.20 each
Bud Box CU-789, DigiKey, 377-1938-ND, $3.70
SPDT switches, On-Off-On, Momentary, qty 2, DigiKey, EG2388-ND, $2.70 each
12' 10 AWG jumper cables, Amazon, $5.96

So, not including tax and shipping, I'm up to $31.26.

Had everything else. You can get everything else at Radio Shack or equivalent for about another 5 bucks.

Last edited by StickMon; 06-05-2013 at 12:03 AM..
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      06-07-2013, 09:53 AM   #12
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Haha, love this. Only difference is the BMW one only allows the solenoids to be actuated for like 10 seconds before needing a minute or so break in between. To keep them from burning out or something, so they say.
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      09-02-2013, 12:12 PM   #13
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StickMon, I'm planning on doing some Beisan upgrades this fall/winter and I was thinking of making this a project. But, I have a couple of questions.

Should there be a resistor on the line returning to battery positive between the switches and fuse? Either by adding one or by moving the one for the big green diode to right before the fuse connector. Tracing out the line, it looks like there is no resistor between the battery and the Vanos solenoids.

Could you confirm that I'm reading the circuit right. Positioning the switch to position 4 allows a parallel path for electron flow from the negative battery terminal through the individual green diode/resistor and from pin 6 (individual solenoid) through the switch and back to battery positive. Any other switch position works the same way.

Also, have you used this on your car yet?

Thanks for doing the research on this.
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      09-02-2013, 02:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
I was surprised to see that the Vanos Solenoid Switch Box was nearly $200.
Come on. It's a box with 2 switches and a $3 connector.
When I saw that the +12 V cable was another $200, that put me over the top.

I started thinking I should make some and sell them on eBay, but
A) I don't have that kind of time
B) I don't need the money
C) I couldn't profit off you guys

After a bit of research, I came up with this. Has more LEDs, and a diode and fuse in case you have brain fade and hook it up backwards.
Which switch is intake/exhaust and which pin is advance/retard is a bit of an educated guess based on the signal abbreviations and Google Translate.

Tischer sells the connector for $3, and the pins for about $2 each.
Everything else you can get from Radio Shack or equivalent.
RealOEM, and everybody else lists 2 possible pin types. One is rectangular 0.2x0.5mm. The other is square 0.75mm. No cutoff date is given. I'll buy a set of each and see what fits.

Attachment 860232



Attachment 860082

You just made my day. Now I have a project.....
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      09-03-2013, 12:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim View Post
Should there be a resistor on the line returning to battery positive between the switches and fuse? Either by adding one or by moving the one for the big green diode to right before the fuse connector. Tracing out the line, it looks like there is no resistor between the battery and the Vanos solenoids.
Not really, under the probably safe assumption that the solenoids are meant to run at 12-15 V. You use a resistor between the source and the solenoid/relay coil when the source voltage is greater than the rated coil voltage. For instance, if you want to run a 5 Vdc relay in your car, put a resistor in series that's twice the coil resistance. 2/3 of the voltage falls across the resistor, and 1/3 across the coil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim View Post
Could you confirm that I'm reading the circuit right. Positioning the switch to position 4 allows a parallel path for electron flow from the negative battery terminal through the individual green diode/resistor and from pin 6 (individual solenoid) through the switch and back to battery positive. Any other switch position works the same way.
The "diodes" inside circles are LEDs. Yes, power will flow to the corresponding Vanos solenoid and the LED. The LEDs are mostly eye candy, and tell you the switch isn't broke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim View Post
Also, have you used this on your car yet?
Not yet, but the Beisan rebuild is on my list.
Also, note the post from O-cha. The Vanos coils are meant to be intermittently operated. Don't lay on the switches for a long time and overheat them.

And an addendum to the build. I found that Pep Boys has more dainty battery clips.
More like the ones on the BMW cable than the honkin' jumper cable clamps I bought.
They're on my shopping list for my next trip to Pep Boys.
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      09-03-2013, 12:23 AM   #16
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If anybody gets around to doing this, I've bought the air adapter, but I haven't found the quick-disconnect that fit's it.
It's some kind of European style. Possibly "PCL" or "Rectus 25KB", but I'm not sure.
Certainly nothing that Lowes has.

Rectus? Damn near killed us!
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      09-03-2013, 05:45 AM   #17
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I am getting ready to build the box. When you find the adapter let us know.
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      09-03-2013, 10:11 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
If anybody gets around to doing this, I've bought the air adapter, but I haven't found the quick-disconnect that fit's it.
It's some kind of European style. Possibly "PCL" or "Rectus 25KB", but I'm not sure.
Certainly nothing that Lowes has.

Rectus? Damn near killed us!


What is the diameter and thread pitch of the BMW adapter? All of the online resources I've checked just said hollow bolt with no dimensions. We can probably find some sort of Swagelok or Parker fitting to which we can connect a male quick connect fitting. Something like a male M# by x.xmm pitch to female npt adapter. Then we won't need to order parts from Europe to complete this.

Thanks for the answers to my questions. Now I just have to figure out how to solder stuff together (and make it stick).

The TIS mentions in a few places that your solenoids are goners if you press those buttons for too long.
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      09-04-2013, 11:08 PM   #19
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Looks like the adapter/Vanos accumulator banjo bolt are M10 x 1.00.
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      09-05-2013, 11:47 AM   #20
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Looks like this and this from McMaster Carr should work along with a crush washer. And it should connect to 1/4" couplings.
StickMon, This Euro model might fit your BMW adapter.



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      09-05-2013, 12:29 PM   #21
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WOW! Nice find.
I bought all 3.
Thanks!!!
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Last edited by StickMon; 09-06-2013 at 12:17 AM..
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      09-05-2013, 04:30 PM   #22
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You're welcome!
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