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06-27-2019, 09:12 AM | #45 |
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Roof is done, most of the siding is done, and the framing crew finally moved their trailer out so I could get a clear photo. Still need to do the stone on the front. Then we wait for concrete.
Last edited by wdb; 06-27-2019 at 09:50 AM.. |
06-27-2019, 11:25 AM | #46 |
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NICE! Like the overhang of the roof and its color. Sharp!
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06-28-2019, 05:54 AM | #47 |
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Excellent!
I have the exact same roof on my shop.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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08-14-2019, 06:11 PM | #49 |
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Dooooorrrrrsssss!!!!
I'm so excited because of all the other work that has gone on to get to this point:
Mo' pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/K81DEgeEooCjN2db8 |
08-14-2019, 06:44 PM | #50 |
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It's beautiful! I like everything. The ceiling over the lift bay in particular...it sure looks like you've checked all the boxes on this build, that's for sure.
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08-15-2019, 05:00 PM | #52 | ||
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As for the floor slope, they did ask me if I wanted the whole floor to slope towards the doors. I did some digging around and decided not to go that way, so the floor is level. Only the edge at the door is sloped. |
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08-25-2019, 07:59 AM | #53 |
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Is that white oak that you split?
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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08-25-2019, 06:33 PM | #56 |
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09-26-2019, 08:30 AM | #57 |
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Minor update. Painting is underway, and yesterday the landscaping and driveway cleanup/expansion was done. It finally stopped looking like a construction site!
Next up: deciding what to do with the floor. |
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09-27-2019, 07:22 AM | #58 |
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^ Handsome!
I see you went with mini-splits for HVAC duties...good choice. |
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09-27-2019, 12:56 PM | #59 |
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09-27-2019, 02:17 PM | #60 | |
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My choice for the floor was a gray two part epoxy. I put it on myself which was to save on cost. Only error was listening to my wife's suggestion to add the flakes...it makes finding that small dropped washer almost impossible. It has held up well, spilled oil or antifreeze is easily cleaned up. Cleaning with a mop and some spic 'n span is all the maintenance it gets. Don't have a great "floor" photo, but these should give you an idea. |
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09-27-2019, 05:17 PM | #61 |
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Oh those pictures. I still get jealous every time I see your garage!
HVAC. Honestly? It was just you. I talked to my contractor about it, he talked to his HVAC guy, and everyone agreed that it was the right thing. If I have any negative so far it is that the unit does not pull in any outside air. Closed system. Then again there are 3 very large holes and one slightly smaller one in the structure, so, in the end, meh. The unit I got has two modes that will probably satisfy all of my needs. 1) "Dry" which does just that -- dries the air. Temperature is not the measure, humidity is. I'll leave it in that mode in the warm months. Also it helps right now with all of the painting we're doing. 2) Oops, I forget what it's called! But it maintains 50 degrees F. Winter mode. The HVAC guy (and son, really cool pair of folks) told me a story about another fellow they know with some 50's cars in a garage with no conditioning. He had to replace the entire interior of one of his cars due to mildew. So, to me anyway, it's a no-brainer to condition the air. Also when I asked him about operating costs he said "call me if you notice a difference in your electric bill." Too soon to tell on that but, if true, wow. Thanks for the suggestion on epoxy finish. I used that in our lower level here in the house when we were redoing some rooms downstairs. My intent then was to seal the floor off from moisture entering from below, because I was 99.7% certain that nothing had been done in that regard when the floor was poured. Since I intend to work on cars in the garage -- and like you, since I lean towards English and German varieties that tend to leak even when not being worked on! -- I like the idea of easy cleanup and resistance to the harsh goo that makes cars go. However I'm concerned about it being slippery if it gets wet, such as in winter when the cars come in with snow or ice on them. Any experience with that? Last edited by wdb; 09-27-2019 at 05:23 PM.. |
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09-27-2019, 06:24 PM | #62 |
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My fingers are crossed hoping you won't be disappointed with the mini-splits. The one I had installed in a room addition really works great and like your installers said, there was very little increase in electricity usage. The two part epoxy is very slippery when wet. There are anti slip additives, but I've been told cleanup of spilled liquids is then not that easy. If you do go the epoxy route, talk to your concrete guy as to how long you should wait for the slab to "gas out" before applying.
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09-28-2019, 10:08 AM | #63 |
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Concrete work is what I've done for the entirety of my life, there are a number of things you can do to the floor depending on cost and exact look your looking for...when I did my former employers garage we machined finish to a glass shine, put microsand with the clear coat chem and it's def slip resistant...as far as spills I don't see it anymore then just soaking it up and towel drying...as for the longevity the clear coat agent, you will only find at an appropriate commercial vendor...A number of years ago we did a garage in easthampton with a state bluestone mix, after concrete was finished, used industrial grinders and it gave a sick marble look.
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09-28-2019, 02:36 PM | #64 |
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Nice garage! I had mine built a few years ago. Since I'm in horse country near Milton, I chose a barn configuration. I also went with a single mini split for my 1,000 sq/ft and it's been great!
Since mine is more of a working shop and not so much a show off garage, I chose to treat the concrete with a densifier/sealer (Legacy Industrial's HD39 product). You still get some staining, but it gives the concrete a harder finish and won't dust off. My concern with epoxy, other than cost, was how well it will endure weld splatter. I did use Granite Garage Floors textured epoxy in my attached garage. It's beautiful, but good luck finding small parts. It hides everything! Last edited by Michael9218; 09-28-2019 at 02:52 PM.. |
09-28-2019, 03:18 PM | #65 |
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Wow, thanks everyone for the input. Much appreciated!
Barn look: I love it. But we actually *live* in a barn, a 200+ year old stone bank barn. My dream garage has always been something that looked like an "outbuilding" on a farm property might look. But the cost estimates were frightening so we went with something more garage-looking, and used colors and finishes that tie it in to our barn/home. Ours will be a working garage too, but two of the bays will be for daily drivers most of the time which means a lot of regular use in a variety of weather. So I do need to be concerned with slippery surfaces. I like the sound of the HD39 but also wonder how slippery in might be with a sheen of water. Truth be told we're not getting any younger, and I don't need any heads being cracked open! I've got an account over on garagejournal.com and will also do some research there. Oh and get ready to be hammered with questions when the lift decisions come up! EDIT: Outgassing or completely curing or what-have-you of the concrete floor is a concern of mine. The darn thing changes color constantly so I know it is still doing whatever it is doing in terms of achieving its ultimate state. Whatever I do to the floor will wait at least until winter, but I wonder whether I should wait even longer. Floor got poured in July. The building was completely open for the next 5 weeks so it had plenty of ventilation over that time period. Last edited by wdb; 09-28-2019 at 03:28 PM.. |
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09-29-2019, 06:38 PM | #66 |
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Depending on what mix design used relative psi strength should be met within a 27-32 day period. The only timeframe the finish typically changes is within the first two weeks, but it also depends on how it was finished. Floating and hand troweling will end up whitening in the same matter sidewalks and aprons do with a broom finish, machine finishing then spraying with a curing compound will typically leave it closer to its natural dark color if left unexposed to sunlight...ie homedepots , cosco, etc typically have that kind of finish work.
There is no added benefit to waiting longer,and if it's exposed to elements it kinda just dirties it up more so then anything. |
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