coding DRLs, clown nose, TPMS & infotainment

[KevinC]

Is there a code reader or dongle out there that will allow me to somewhat easily code the above items? I want to code my DRLs on, as they were on my '07 - the inner halo rings. I also want to code the clown nose to blink when the car was locked, despite no alarm being present - another thing my '07 was coded to do. I would also like to be able to code out the TPMS sensors once they give out, as replacement is expensive. And lastly my infotainment system has been set to "roadster" per the previous owner, a trick I'd read about back in the day, but I was 100% fine with my original being coded as a coupe, and would like to return the current car to the proper coupe coding.

How can I do this without INPA and a laptop? I'm looking for a dongle-based solution, such as Schwaben or Carly or... ?

[pungo]

Don't know about dongle-based solution. I just use an old laptop w/ NCSExpert and a $10 USB to OBD II interface to do my coding. Not sure about the TMPS sensors or roadster setting, but I did do track mode to give a 3rd mode to the DSC button. Why don't you want to use a laptop with a cable, too last decade for you

[KevinC]

No Windows hardware in the house, and last time I did try to mess with INPA or some BMW solution (was a long time ago, can't remember what it was) I was never able to get it to work. So looking for an easy solution - like OBDeleven for my Golf, which is spectacular and inexpensive.

[StickMon]

Unfortunately, 8 years have passed since your Z and your Golf.
The only thing I know of for what you want to do is NCS.
Maybe Progman for the DRLs.
The roadster equalization is a much sought after upgrade, and frankly, I doubt you would notice much difference.

[3002 tii]

No mobile solution, still need NCS and laptop

[Huz-Z]

Be careful coding the DRLs . Canadian spec will turn on the Halos and the headlights too whereas US spec is the halos only.

[Rated M Roadster]

I just coded mine with the Carly app and WiFi module (have to use their module). Coded front and rear DRLs and 3 blink turn signals, but there are more options you can do.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by KevinC

And lastly my infotainment system has been set to "roadster" per the previous owner, a trick I'd read about back in the day, but I was 100% fine with my original being coded as a coupe, and would like to return the current car to the proper coupe coding.

If your talking about the sound systems DSP module changes between E85 vs E86 there are like 40 filterbank changes. You'll probably need a module dump from a E86 to write to the DSP module. Not sure if you'll be able to do that without NCPExpert, but I don't know the capabilities of those dongle-type tools.



BTW, I tried the E85 DSP changes on my E86 and didn't care for the change. I switched it back to E86 and just changed some of the loudness parameters.

[wdb]

All this stereo talk. Mine is almost never on! I like the car noises. But then I don't daily drive it.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Huz-Z

Be careful coding the DRLs . Canadian spec will turn on the Halos and the headlights too whereas US spec is the halos only.

FWIW
It can be done on a CDN spec car as well w/o headlights, there are just a couple of extra lines to code as well.

[KevinC]

Thanks for all the responses. Sounds like Carly might be worth a shot. The reviews of it are VERY mixed.

My original Z4MC didn't have the DRLs enabled when I bought it, but after a scheduled service visit, they must have flashed it because it came back with them activated. The clown nose also blinked when the car was locked - not sure if that started at the same time or if it came out of Spartanburg that way. But my new '08 has neither feature enabled.

[cahme]

May want to drop BimmerGeeks an email and ask if they're going to support the E85/E86 with the ProTool. They've told me it would be available soon a couple of months ago ...

[KevinC]

Thanks for the tip Cahme.. but no E46/E85-6 support, and very pricey - $170 for a dongle + needed software to do coding. My OBDeleven dongle & software for the Golf cost me ~$60 complete - and does everything under the sun. We really need a tool like this for our cars.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by KevinC

Thanks for the tip Cahme.. but no E46/E85-6 support, and very pricey - $170 for a dongle + needed software to do coding. My OBDeleven dongle & software for the Golf cost me ~$60 complete - and does everything under the sun. We really need a tool like this for our cars.

Since the car has some age, I don't see too many companies wanting to make an investment for such small amount of sales. Especially when there is already a very powerful tool (NCSExpert) that will do everything you're asking for. You only need an old worthless laptop and a $10 cable, but if you must have the latest wireless tech and front end software, then you'll probably have to pay the price.



Subscribed to see what you end up with to perform a few simple coding operations...

[KevinC]

Pungo, if you could prescribe a working cable, and a link to NCSexpert that will install properly on Windows 10, I will dig up a laptop to give it a go.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by KevinC

Pungo, if you could prescribe a working cable, and a link to NCSexpert that will install properly on Windows 10, I will dig up a laptop to give it a go.

Plenty of cheap cables on ebay just search inpa cable. I don't know about the win 10 part. I'm running on old xp laptop.

[StickMon]

Some of the apps are 16-bit. Can't remember which ones.
Win 7 and beyond won't do 16-bit, but you might be able to run them in a XP VM.
Would be easier to get a used XP laptop and dedicate it to car service.
That's what I did. It's a "hand-me-up" from my Daughter.

[KevinC]

I went through this exercise years ago when I had my first Z4MC, and it was a total abortion. Had issues loading software, stuff crashing or not running at all, virus alerts, etc. Never did get a single thing accomplished. Not looking to go down that road again.

I'm going to be heading to my indy soon for a brake fluid flush and belt replacement, I *think* he has coding capabilities. If so I'll get him on it.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by KevinC

I went through this exercise years ago when I had my first Z4MC, and it was a total abortion. Had issues loading software, stuff crashing or not running at all, virus alerts, etc. Never did get a single thing accomplished. Not looking to go down that road again.

I'm going to be heading to my indy soon for a brake fluid flush and belt replacement, I *think* he has coding capabilities. If so I'll get him on it.

I remember installing the few pieces of software required to perform the coding and it did take an evening to get it all installed and working properly so I could code some items. As a side benefit I got the INPA/EDIABAS diagnostic software as well which is a powerful tool. I didn't have any virus alerts or crashing, it's very stable. Maybe you had some bad bootleg copy.



Anyway, have the indy enable "track mode" if you care about that feature. I'm not sure they'll be able to do the DSP without a dump from a E86 DSP module.

[mitchsf]

I bought the cable on eBay and downloaded NCS Expert.

These parameters both disable monitoring if you switch to LEDs. They are labeled hot/cold monitoring of high beams, but xenons don't have separate high beam bulbs, so no explanation for that description. Maybe it's for halogen.
warmueberwachung_FL nicht_aktiv
kaltueberwachung_FL nicht_aktiv

This parameter turns on angel eyes as DRLs.
GED_FL_ALS_DRL aktiv

I tried several LEDs and found these to work best. My xenons are 5000K Morimoto bulbs, and these are slightly more blue, but much closer than the original halogen angel eye bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[pungo]

Originally Posted by mitchsf

I tried several LEDs and found these to work best. My xenons are 5000K Morimoto bulbs, and these are slightly more blue, but much closer than the original halogen angel eye bulbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The color may match your xenons better than the stock bulbs, but those LEDs you posted are some of the dimmer ones and output is probably less than the sock bulbs. If you go with LEDs, at least go for a bulb with (10) Cree XB-D LEDs so they are brighter than stock.


BTW, there's a translucent blue filter between the bulb and the AE ring, so you'll always have some blue tint, even if the LEDs are pure white.


You want real AE rings

[StickMon]

I've had these installed for years and really like them.
The only bad thing about the LEDs is they're typically longer than the incandescent, so the sweet spot on the LED goes in past the sweet spot on the halo ring.
They're still at least as bright as stock, but not as bright as they could be.