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      08-04-2020, 10:59 AM   #1
No_Dominion_2
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Question Coilover/Camber Bolt Question

Quick question:

I'm getting a set of coilovers installed this Friday, and have a set of TMS camber bolts that I ordered, as well. For those of you who have used them, do you recommend installing the camber bolts (with all washers on the outside) at the same time as the coilovers, or hold off on the bolts until I take the car for the alignment?

I'm thinking installing the bolts during the coilover install would make it simpler for the alignment shop...

Thanks!
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      08-04-2020, 11:20 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No_Dominion_2 View Post
Quick question:

I'm getting a set of coilovers installed this Friday, and have a set of TMS camber bolts that I ordered, as well. For those of you who have used them, do you recommend installing the camber bolts (with all washers on the outside) at the same time as the coilovers, or hold off on the bolts until I take the car for the alignment?

I'm thinking installing the bolts during the coilover install would make it simpler for the alignment shop...

Thanks!
Your coilovers don't have camber plates?
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      08-05-2020, 08:28 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
Your coilovers don't have camber plates?
It can sometimes be hard to get the amount of camber wanted even with camber plates if you're looking for a more extreme amount. Ideally I want about -3.4-3.6 for the type of track work my car sees. I could get that with my old GC coilovers and GC plates because I could run the car quite low. It also still allowed me a decent margin of caster adjustment. Most adjustable coilovers have adjustment knob that protrudes through the strut tower and with the opening of the strut tower being circular the more camber you load in the less potential caster you can get out of the car.

For me I use the bolts to get more camber at the bottom so I can run the strut more towards the center of the opening in the tower so I can therefore run more caster.
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      08-05-2020, 08:39 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F360C View Post
It can sometimes be hard to get the amount of camber wanted even with camber plates if you're looking for a more extreme amount. Ideally I want about -3.4-3.6 for the type of track work my car sees. I could get that with my old GC coilovers and GC plates because I could run the car quite low. It also still allowed me a decent margin of caster adjustment. Most adjustable coilovers have adjustment knob that protrudes through the strut tower and with the opening of the strut tower being circular the more camber you load in the less potential caster you can get out of the car.

For me I use the bolts to get more camber at the bottom so I can run the strut more towards the center of the opening in the tower so I can therefore run more caster.
I appreciate the response. I’m familiar with the factors at play, just trying to get input about the specific question I had. Since you’ve used the bolts, would you say it would be easier to install them the same time as the coil overs since the stock bolts have to be removed anyway, or would you recommend waiting until taking the car for alignment?

All the threads I’ve read seem to indicate the bolts can be a pain in the butt to install sometimes due to the holes not wanting to align when the rest of the suspension components are together. I’m trying to avoid causing the alignment shop a headache.
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      08-05-2020, 09:01 AM   #5
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Make sure you factor in what tire you want to run as well in this equation. I did what u/F360C did originally when I got my coilovers and was fine. HOWEVER afterwards when I went to 275s upfront, I had to remove the extra shim due to tire interference on the strut.
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      08-05-2020, 09:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jns_e85 View Post
Make sure you factor in what tire you want to run as well in this equation. I did what u/F360C did originally when I got my coilovers and was fine. HOWEVER afterwards when I went to 275s upfront, I had to remove the extra shim due to tire interference on the strut.
I’ll be staying with the 235s up front that I have currently, and I’m not trying to achieve excessive camber since it’s primarily a street car; I plan on asking the shop to get as close to -2.5 as they can while keeping it equal on both sides. Holy crap on the 275s!!! I didn’t even think that would be possible!
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      08-05-2020, 09:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No_Dominion_2 View Post
I appreciate the response. I’m familiar with the factors at play, just trying to get input about the specific question I had. Since you’ve used the bolts, would you say it would be easier to install them the same time as the coil overs since the stock bolts have to be removed anyway, or would you recommend waiting until taking the car for alignment?

All the threads I’ve read seem to indicate the bolts can be a pain in the butt to install sometimes due to the holes not wanting to align when the rest of the suspension components are together. I’m trying to avoid causing the alignment shop a headache.
Woops sorry that response was actually to XMetal asking if you had camber plates or not.

I have been able to put them in in the past with the suspension on the car. It can be a bit hard to line up the bolts... suspension needs to be unloaded and you just need to loosen the upper knuckle to strut bolt and that gives you the play you need to line everything up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jns_e85 View Post
Make sure you factor in what tire you want to run as well in this equation. I did what u/F360C did originally when I got my coilovers and was fine. HOWEVER afterwards when I went to 275s upfront, I had to remove the extra shim due to tire interference on the strut.
I am at this point now...I run the 275s up front too but with the new MCS coilovers I can't get the car to the height/camber I want. So I am going to try a 10mm spacer and the camber bolts.
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      08-05-2020, 04:07 PM   #8
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FWIW, I'm on FA 500s, (can't afford fancy MCS ) using their supplied plates. I had to remove the shims to get the 275s to fit, and even had to go back to near stock ride height to stop fender rub under full compression, leaving me maxed at -2.3.

ninja edit: running apex sm-10s 18x9.5 et-35 square, 5mm spacer in the rear

I believe I will rebuild them before next year (or go another route, who knows haha) and if I do, I intend to get different camber plates and shoot for -3+ again upfront
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      08-10-2020, 06:20 AM   #9
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To answer your question, not difficult to install after strut install. If it were me, I would install them. On my street car I have PSS10’s that don’t have camber plates so I installed shims to kick out the knuckle. 255 tires clear fine. On my track car I don’t have shims due to strut clearance for 275’s.
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      08-10-2020, 10:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
To answer your question, not difficult to install after strut install. If it were me, I would install them. On my street car I have PSS10’s that don’t have camber plates so I installed shims to kick out the knuckle. 255 tires clear fine. On my track car I don’t have shims due to strut clearance for 275’s.
That's what we ended up doing, figured might as well since it's all there and ready, anyway. Threw one shim between and the other two on the outside. Eyeballing it after the drop and with the shim and it looks like I'm probably sitting around -2.5 if not a tiny bit more. Toe got kicked out a bit from the drop, but I'm going for alignment on Friday. I have a feeling I'm going to be very pleased with how it all turns out.
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