New Owner - I'm in love

[ryank382]

Originally Posted by yousefnjr

Welcome to the club! Really pretty one you got there. My .02c :

-CDV removal made no difference in the 2nd gear shift for me
-Stiffer engine & tranny mounts and SSK, while all very good improvements in terms of feel, didn’t really help the 2nd gear shift either
-best thing to do is just slow down a hair and use some force. Haven’t been locked out of gear since!

Re: valve adjustment, I believe it’s part of both inspection 1 and 2. If you can wrench yourself, it’s not difficult to do. Aftermarket shim kit and tools are reasonably priced and are just as good as OE.

Expect to swap rod bearings at some point. Some people are lucky, but it seems for most people it’s a wear item. Better safe than sorry IMO. Oil analysis via Blackstone Labs can help you know how close you are to kaboom.

Should check the vanos bolts and hub ASAP. There’s a lot of good info on here you can search. If the hub is in good shape, the Beisan pump disk is an excellent way to make sure it never breaks in the future. It will also remove the engine rattle that comes around ~3k rpm.

Cheers and welcome again

Thats all very helpful thank you very much. Just a few questions I had though.

How often is a valve adjustment needed? Inspection 1 was done at 22k. Car is at 33.5k now.

I know about the rod bearings but was not expecting to worry about that until I get to the 60k mark. As this isnt my daily I dont expect to ever get to that number during my ownership anyway.

With only 33.5k miles do I need to worry about vanos and take preventative measures? When you say to check bolts and hub ASAP it worries me lol I'm not as mechanically inclined as many members here so I would need to tell my shop to take a look for me as I wouldnt know what to look for. I'm fairly certain I can manage a valve adjustment on my own but when it comes to terms like "beisan pump disk" and the vanos components I am a bit lost. Not sure how costly these items and the labor are either.

Also a few people mentioned the Royal Purple tranny fluid but I read online that it might be thinner then the OEM fluid. Does this mean if I go that route I should expect to change it often? Is there a mileage interval for tranny fluid I should know?

[XMetal]

Valve adjustment is every inspection. If your car is at 33.5k now, I would just wait until inspection 2 for the next valve adjustment.

Vanos preventative is just that - preventative. Do it when you see fit. But the sooner you do it, the less you have to worry about the hub tabs breaking. Not sure if the '06 have the problem of the Vanos bolt shearing off, but I would do that as well regardless when you do the pump disk - See the Beisan S54 procedures for more info => http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/index.html

Transmission fluid change is every inspection 2 per BMW's maintenance. However, I've always change mine out every inspection - roughly every 25k - 30k miles. So, using the RP fluid wasn't really an issue for me. I've asked the same question a few years back and how I had arrived at RP => https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthr...t=royal+purple

[ryank382]

Originally Posted by XMetal

Valve adjustment is every inspection. If your car is at 33.5k now, I would just wait until inspection 2 for the next valve adjustment.

Vanos preventative is just that - preventative. Do it when you see fit. But the sooner you do it, the less you have to worry about the hub tabs breaking. Not sure if the '06 have the problem of the Vanos bolt shearing off, but I would do that as well regardless when you do the pump disk - See the Beisan S54 procedures for more info => http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/index.html

Transmission fluid change is every inspection 2 per BMW's maintenance. However, I've always change mine out every inspection - roughly every 25k - 30k miles. So, using the RP fluid wasn't really an issue for me. I've asked the same question a few years back and how I had arrived at RP => https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthr...t=royal+purple

Sounds good thank you. Told my shop to use Royal purple since everyone recommended. First time having tranny fluid changed on a car hope I don't need to tell them to add any additives or anything to the RP as some people on the forums mentioned

[SCHMOUPE]

Originally Posted by ryank382

Cool, thanks for the suggestions. I live in Edgewater as well, let me know if you know of any events/drives/meets in the area (Other then the thurs night meetups by the starbucks lol if they even still do that)

Oh nice! I do get together with a few friends few times a summer and we do some nice scenic runs around the state. Looking forward to seeing you around town.

[StickMon]

Originally Posted by ryank382

Sounds good thank you. Told my shop to use Royal purple since everyone recommended. First time having tranny fluid changed on a car hope I don't need to tell them to add any additives or anything to the RP as some people on the forums mentioned

Nope. Just straight RP Synchromax.
Not sure if anybody mentioned the diff. Probably want to stick with OEM SAF-XJ+FM.

[yousefnjr]

Originally Posted by ryank382

Thats all very helpful thank you very much. Just a few questions I had though.

How often is a valve adjustment needed? Inspection 1 was done at 22k. Car is at 33.5k now.

I know about the rod bearings but was not expecting to worry about that until I get to the 60k mark. As this isnt my daily I dont expect to ever get to that number during my ownership anyway.

With only 33.5k miles do I need to worry about vanos and take preventative measures? When you say to check bolts and hub ASAP it worries me lol I'm not as mechanically inclined as many members here so I would need to tell my shop to take a look for me as I wouldnt know what to look for. I'm fairly certain I can manage a valve adjustment on my own but when it comes to terms like "beisan pump disk" and the vanos components I am a bit lost. Not sure how costly these items and the labor are either.

Also a few people mentioned the Royal Purple tranny fluid but I read online that it might be thinner then the OEM fluid. Does this mean if I go that route I should expect to change it often? Is there a mileage interval for tranny fluid I should know?

I think there was a guy here around 20k that had loose bolts (found the thread), so I wouldn’t put off having that looked at. I don’t think I’ve seen rod bearings fail anywhere near that quickly though.

Good read on the vanos failures - https://www.langracing.com/beisan-sy...d-maintenance/

[StickMon]

My bolts were broke when I bought the car at 40k miles.
When I took it home the Wife says "is it supposed to make that noise?"
My hub broke somewhere short of 90k miles. Replaced it with a C300.

[racerbruce]

ASAP, have your tech save appx 6 oz of used engine oil (take sample 1/2 way through the drain process)and send to Blackstone Labs for oil analysis; their lab report will advise if you have potential connecting rod bearing wear; perform this test every oil change or annualy, whichever comes first; a $30 investment that allows you to to create a data trend to ID internal wear and a multitude of other lab tests of your oil.

[F360C]

Originally Posted by ryank382

Hey everyone,

Just bought myself an 06 33k mile M Roadster. I've had an F80 M3 for almost 4 years now as well and this car is making me forget all about it. I am absolutely blown away at how amazing the raw driving experience is in a tiny roadster like this with that awesome S54. I don't even find myself missing the torque from the S55 to be honest, which was the only thing I was worried about when buying this car. I may be in the honeymoon phase but this is one of my favorite cars I've ever driven. Just had a few thoughts and concerns

-1-2 gear shifts are tricky, I can see why people are grinding gears. I am not having that issue thankfully but am still not getting a very smooth shift every time. If anyone has any suggestions they'd be welcome. Only time I get it smooth is if I shift fast and get the timing exactly right or if I let the clutch out in 2 motions. So clutch in, shift into 2nd fast, clutch out to engagement point and hold for like a millisecond then release. It works the syncros just a bit but feels the most natural.

-No cold air from left vent. Not sure if common issue or not

-Horn doesnt work. I read that there are 2 physical horns so I'm thinking the chances that they are both defective is low so I hope its just a fuse

-The car came with the aftermarket center armrest thats way too high and gets in the way of comfortably shifting. Tried tearing it off but I guess that adhesive is super super strong so I'm gonna tell my shop to take a heat gun to the corners and try to pry it off. Hopefully wont rip my trim apart

-Suggestions for bluetooth for music? Is the best way to install an AUX input and buy one of those small bluetooth things that plug into the AUX?

-Does anyone know how I can find out if valve adjustment service was done? Previous owner had maintenance records that show Inspection 1 which he claims were when the valve adjustment was done but AFAIK they are normally done on inspection 2 which I don't have a record of

-Will be changing oil and intake filter but I am not used to owning an older vehicle. Is there any other maintenance items that I should handle? Want to make sure I handle all preventative stuff. Not sure if any fluids should be changed just because of the age of the car rather than the miles. Maybe I should do tranny fluid with an oil change?

Super excited to keep driving this awesome thing. Some pics just because

]

Congrats on the new car! Great spot for pics too... I usually run past there when I do my evening run from Hoboken.

[ryank382]

Originally Posted by SCHMOUPE

Oh nice! I do get together with a few friends few times a summer and we do some nice scenic runs around the state. Looking forward to seeing you around town.

Awesome same here

Originally Posted by StickMon

Nope. Just straight RP Synchromax.
Not sure if anybody mentioned the diff. Probably want to stick with OEM SAF-XJ+FM.

Cool thank you. Def sticking with oem oil for diff

Originally Posted by yousefnjr

I think there was a guy here around 20k that had loose bolts (found the thread), so I wouldn’t put off having that looked at. I don’t think I’ve seen rod bearings fail anywhere near that quickly though.

Good read on the vanos failures - https://www.langracing.com/beisan-sy...d-maintenance/

Sounds good thank you for the links and info

Originally Posted by racerbruce

ASAP, have your tech save appx 6 oz of used engine oil (take sample 1/2 way through the drain process)and send to Blackstone Labs for oil analysis; their lab report will advise if you have potential connecting rod bearing wear; perform this test every oil change or annualy, whichever comes first; a $30 investment that allows you to to create a data trend to ID internal wear and a multitude of other lab tests of your oil.

Good idea, definitely doing this thank you


Also thanks to everyone for taking the time to reply. Learned a lot of valuable stuff thats helped tremendously, greatly appreciate it!

[mainsoda]

The Z4M never stops challenging you when you shift it, I really believe that is part of the charm and why it never gets old.

[JimBob0047]

CDV delete, change the motor mounts, trans mounts and get a ZHP shorty shift knob. Just because it's low mileage doesn't mean the rubbers haven't worn out do to age. My roadster had a cracked motor mount with 56k on them.

Also check your lower rear trailing arm bushings, coil packs and pre cat 02 sensors.


I first went with the Bimmerworld solid rubber
mounts and Rouge trans mounts. Completely got rid of any shifting issues and was an absolutely pleasure to drive but at idle the whole car would shake, rattle and roll. I then went with the new kid on the block, 034 Motorsport mounts through ECS, they are solid rubber but softer, completely got rid of any NVH but a little bit of the tricky shifting behavior came back. Sacrifices.

I agree with everyone else it's just the nature of the beast. My 350z was the same, terrible at low speeds but a precision rifle at high speeds.

[WAMz4]

First things first - This will absolutely help with shifting, especially between 1st and 2nd gear.

Reset your Adaptive Throttle Response!
This has been posted many times in this forum.

If you bought a used Z4 the "Adaptive Throttle" is adapted to the previous owners driving style and if it was a grandma or just some slow poke-ass driver who thought it was better to look good than to drive good, you will notice a difference.

Turn ignition off
Turn key to "on" position
Wait 15 seconds
Turn ignition off
Wait another 15 seconds
Start the car
Drive away normally

What this does is reset the adaptive throttle response to factory settings, basically erasing from memory the previous owner and starting anew. If the previous owner drove just like you, you may not feel a difference, But what the heck, its yours now. Out with the old I always say.

I do this any time clutching and shifting starts feeling like it's fighting with me.

[ryank382]

Originally Posted by WAMz4

First things first - This will absolutely help with shifting, especially between 1st and 2nd gear.

Reset your Adaptive Throttle Response!
This has been posted many times in this forum.

If you bought a used Z4 the "Adaptive Throttle" is adapted to the previous owners driving style and if it was a grandma or just some slow poke-ass driver who thought it was better to look good than to drive good, you will notice a difference.

Turn ignition off
Turn key to "on" position
Wait 15 seconds
Turn ignition off
Wait another 15 seconds
Start the car
Drive away normally

What this does is reset the adaptive throttle response to factory settings, basically erasing from memory the previous owner and starting anew. If the previous owner drove just like you, you may not feel a difference, But what the heck, its yours now. Out with the old I always say.

I do this any time clutching and shifting starts feeling like it's fighting with me.

Will def try this

Honesty not sure which helped the most but after cdv delete and tranny fluid flush with Royal purple my shifts are spot on I have no problems anymore thankfully. Or maybe I just needed a little more practice but either way shifting is good

Next step is getting a solid SSK

[ShawnPaul]

Originally Posted by mainsoda

The Z4M never stops challenging you when you shift it, I really believe that is part of the charm and why it never gets old.

It's definitely a car you need to learn to get the most out of. With the shifts, with a shorter ZHP weighted knob, it seems to shift best when you are shifting fast. Love that it always encourages me to drive faster