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      08-12-2012, 02:01 PM   #23
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No comment on the process, which sounds like a PITA, but that shot of the "backyard" sure is wonderful!
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Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
thanks bro.... sure is pretty, im a lucky boy :-)
It's a "green and pleasant land".

RE: Ride height, looks good to me, but the slammed look isn't my thing, so I might be biased. Someone else with the same, or similar, could provide more insight.
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      08-12-2012, 03:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
It's a "green and pleasant land".

RE: Ride height, looks good to me, but the slammed look isn't my thing, so I might be biased. Someone else with the same, or similar, could provide more insight.
it looks real pretty when the rapesead is growing early march and its all yellow, only problem is security, but i love it.

The rideheight is very conservative, with alittle more than 2 finger gaps all the way round on level ground, hell i was half tempted to raise it slightly but i guess ill leave it be, again dubsesd you car looks fantastic but im amazed you have no rub, im guessing if you look hard enough you'll see a contact point somewhere, especially going by this thread

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726851

thanks for everyones input......
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      08-12-2012, 05:03 PM   #25
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i dont find it that low at all, just right. my car is corner balanced with camber setting set conservatively, and i dont have issues driving anywhere. i have never even touched the bumper on inclines or driveways. i was at the track yesterday and the suspension performed really well. nose dive was almost non existant and the car felt very tight and level in the turns. just needs some seats now. kw's are also much softer than H&Rs so you might get some rubbing issues if you lower it more. i have read that alot of people found them to soft on the track
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      08-12-2012, 09:01 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubsesd
i dont find it that low at all, just right. my car is corner balanced with camber setting set conservatively, and i dont have issues driving anywhere. i have never even touched the bumper on inclines or driveways. i was at the track yesterday and the suspension performed really well. nose dive was almost non existant and the car felt very tight and level in the turns. just needs some seats now. kw's are also much softer than H&Rs so you might get some rubbing issues if you lower it more. i have read that alot of people found them to soft on the track
I'm running clubsports :-) they are significantly stiffer linear sprung setup, they are a proper track shock as opposed to your road shock. Your thinking kw v3. the clubsport compared to the h & r coilover is like chalk and cheese, one is basically race application and the other is street setup.
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Last edited by Beedub; 08-13-2012 at 02:06 AM..
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      08-12-2012, 09:20 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by DSC_OFF View Post
Adjust rears w/o taking the wheel off

http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogu...SH/RE-ASP.html
get these. As for noise, you can fix that. I wrapped my H&R spring perches in 3m's felt tape. You know, the opposite side of velcro. You can do the same to these
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      08-12-2012, 09:24 PM   #28
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Hi Beedub, I would not lower the car anymore than you need to for performance. The control arms should never be more than horizontal to the ground EVER because it decreases the camber and will actually cause more roll. That is why very low track cars run 1000lb spring rates. I can not type out large excerpts from suspension books to give you more info since I am typing on my phone. I have attached a good read from a well known bmw, car geek.

http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3per...t_transfer.htm

Dubsesd car is beautiful and looks great but will handle poorly unless the suspension points have been modified as they do to ALL dtm cars.
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      08-13-2012, 12:19 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank View Post
Hi Beedub, I would not lower the car anymore than you need to for performance. The control arms should never be more than horizontal to the ground EVER because it decreases the camber and will actually cause more roll. That is why very low track cars run 1000lb spring rates. I can not type out large excerpts from suspension books to give you more info since I am typing on my phone. I have attached a good read from a well known bmw, car geek.

http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3per...t_transfer.htm

Dubsesd car is beautiful and looks great but will handle poorly unless the suspension points have been modified as they do to ALL dtm cars.
And from the end of his article: "If you stiffen the front springs at the same time that you lower your car (this is usually the case) then the stiffer springs offer an increased roll rate to counter-act the increased roll couple. In this case you get reduced weight transfer without necesarilly increasing roll. And often the reduction in weight transfer will offset the reduced camber curve and bump steer effects enough that the car will ulitmately be faster around a track."
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      08-13-2012, 02:11 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank View Post
Hi Beedub, I would not lower the car anymore than you need to for performance. The control arms should never be more than horizontal to the ground EVER because it decreases the camber and will actually cause more roll. That is why very low track cars run 1000lb spring rates. I can not type out large excerpts from suspension books to give you more info since I am typing on my phone. I have attached a good read from a well known bmw, car geek.

http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3per...t_transfer.htm

Dubsesd car is beautiful and looks great but will handle poorly unless the suspension points have been modified as they do to ALL dtm cars.
thanks for the advice, i will probably raise the car 5mm once its settled in over the next week weeks, as it is now it seems pretty much right but im guessing it will settle further of the coming weeks.
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      08-13-2012, 07:01 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
I'm running clubsports :-) they are significantly stiffer linear sprung setup, they are a proper track shock as opposed to your road shock. Your thinking kw v3. the clubsport compared to the h & r coilover is like chalk and cheese, one is basically race application and the other is street setup.
That makes sense since you only track your car. Mine is mainly a street car. Either way ride height and fine tuning is personal preferenc, and I can understand why you don't want to lower it too much. Looks great anyways!
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      08-13-2012, 07:05 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank View Post

Dubsesd car is beautiful and looks great but will handle poorly unless the suspension points have been modified as they do to ALL dtm cars.
My car is lowered 2" and handles better than the oem suspension especially. It actually performs much better than when I Just lowered it on springs.
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      08-13-2012, 07:17 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank
...but will handle poorly unless the suspension points have been modified as they do to ALL dtm cars.
Sorry, but this post is just stupid.
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      08-13-2012, 07:52 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubsesd View Post
That makes sense since you only track your car. Mine is mainly a street car. Either way ride height and fine tuning is personal preferenc, and I can understand why you don't want to lower it too much. Looks great anyways!
thanks bro, you car i guess shows me i can go alot lower and still have a great performing car..... you car looks another 15mm?? lower than mine?? maybe a touch more??

any pics at the wheel wells like my pics??
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      08-13-2012, 11:49 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank
...but will handle poorly unless the suspension points have been modified as they do to ALL dtm cars.
Sorry, but this post is just stupid.
Modifying pick up points is common on full race cars to compensate for lowering the cars as much as possible.
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      08-13-2012, 12:05 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
thanks bro, you car i guess shows me i can go alot lower and still have a great performing car..... you car looks another 15mm?? lower than mine?? maybe a touch more??

any pics at the wheel wells like my pics??
Best ones I could find.





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      08-13-2012, 12:11 PM   #37
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keep in mind that tire aspect ratios will impact how much wheelgap you see. I think...
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      08-13-2012, 12:34 PM   #38
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Don't forget to unhook the sway bars! And I hope your links are adjustable. Coilovers without adjustable links does not make any sense.
any recommendations for adj links?
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      08-13-2012, 02:17 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank
Quote:
Originally Posted by seank
...but will handle poorly unless the suspension points have been modified as they do to ALL dtm cars.
Sorry, but this post is just stupid.
Modifying pick up points is common on full race cars to compensate for lowering the cars as much as possible.
Yes, that's common knowledge for anyone who's seen a car in the past 50 years... You basically said anyone who lowers their car and does not change the entire rest of the suspension, arms and all; will have a worse handling car. That is 100% incorrect and I was just calling out your mistake. Everyone on here who has coilovers, no matter what their ride height, have seen improvements in handling. If not, no one would ever buy them. You said lowering can actually increase roll; yes it can, but you increase spring rate at the same time you lower. That counteracts the additional roll that would have been added.
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      08-13-2012, 03:50 PM   #40
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Quote:
Dubsesd car is beautiful and looks great but will handle poorly unless the suspension points have been modified as they do to ALL dtm cars.
This is what i said. His (dubsesd's) car is too low to handle well.

This is what you heard
Quote:
but will handle poorly unless the suspension points have been modified as they do to ALL dtm cars

I was specifically pointing that his car is beautiful, but is too low for a great handling track car.

Dubsed said he was most interested in handling.

Regarding sway bar end links: Ground control, Ireland engineering. Tell them what length you need by measuring from the hole in the strut to where the sway bar is parallel to the ground. They can be adjusted from both sides.



A pics of ground control's attached.

Last edited by seank; 08-13-2012 at 03:56 PM..
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      08-13-2012, 04:31 PM   #41
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I needed shorter end links and went with the e36 adjustable ones from Bimmerworld. The e36 are about 1" shorter than e46 on the lowest settings.
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      08-13-2012, 07:57 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank View Post
This is what i said. His (dubsesd's) car is too low to handle well.

This is what you heard


I was specifically pointing that his car is beautiful, but is too low for a great handling track car.

Dubsed said he was most interested in handling.
I did? I was just at a gt3 cup race, and all those cars were lower than mine and had factory original suspension points. The gt3 cup is about 2-2.5" lower than a gt3
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      08-13-2012, 08:04 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubsesd View Post
I did? I should of bought a Hyundai elantra I guess
Compared to seank, we all drive elantras. Plus, he knows eveything about these cars having owned one for a couple months...
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      08-13-2012, 11:27 PM   #44
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Quote:
Plus, he knows eveything about these cars having owned one for a couple months...
I have raced bmw's for many years, but it doesn't matter what car we are talking about. We are just talking about suspension geometry and mcpherson struts.

What got you so upset? You weren't bothered when I told you how good your car looked?

Quote:
I was just at a gt3 cup race, and all those cars were lower than mine and had factory original suspension points. The gt3 cup is about 2-2.5" lower than a gt3
I don't own one, but my understanding is that the GT3 cup car is based off the GT3 RS and that the supsension is completely different and I that it is 4 inches wider.
But you would probably know if you have chatted with the owners.

Last edited by seank; 08-13-2012 at 11:35 PM..
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