2006 Z4 makeover

[pmmjarrett]

Paint is ordered. About 5-1/2 gallons of liquids in total LOL. (sealer, base, kandy, clear, reducer and activator)

She's getting a true urethane kandy paint job and no graphics or striping. Time to hit it hard this week. If all goes well I might be able to shoot it this weekend.


Will it taste as good as it looks?

[Incompatible]

Great post Impressed with your garage and attention to detail on the Z.

[pmmjarrett]

Originally Posted by Incompatible

Great post Impressed with your garage and attention to detail on the Z.

Thank you. Ya the new shop is a small step up for the one it replaced.

The old shop made me a lot of money and kept me going through some lean times but it was way overdue before I even bought the property. RIP



She got a viking funeral after I brought her to her knees






Couple trucks I built in this shop to haul campers... Door opening was only 7' tall and 10' wide and the bay was only 22' deep. Work was all on the back half behind the cab so as the trucks got longer they were just simply pulled further out of the shop. The ford was 40' bumper to bumper when done and the freightliner was 39'

Stretched frame from 177" wb to 312" wb, installed sleeper and built a custom bed to transport campers.






Converted a tandem axle road tractor to a single axle straight truck and built the bed to haul campers.







Wiped the car down with Dupont 3919s prep-sol and then wiped down with Dupont 3812 fast enamel reducer. Never been a big fan of prepsol but it does cut through grime pretty quickly like on the plastic inner fenders where I will need to tape off. 3812 I have been using for 25+ years to wipe down cars before paint. Yea I know they say don't use enamel reducer to do this but that's what the boss had us use in the body shop I worked at back in the 80's because it was cheaper, it dries really fast and it worked very well so I stuck with it ever since.

Got the main body sanded down with P320 grit on the palm sander and used heat and ice to shrink the metal and take out the 2 small dings, one in the LR quarter and one in the R door. Worked well enough no body filler is needed but will need a couple coats of primer and blocked out to finish them off. One thing I like about a palm sander is if you keep the sanding pad flat and let the grit do all the work, (like you are supposed too), you are basicly block sanding the car at the same time as scuffing it. Small imperfections, chips, dieback and small dings will show easily if you use a palm sander right and pay close attention to what you are doing. I watch closely for any problems as I sand.

Small dent in left rear quarter panel



Small ding in passenger door.



Heat gun (not a hair dryer), ice water, an old sock and a small bar to push lightly on the inside of the quarter panel to take out the dent. Couldn't use it on the door as the ding was right where the inner brace is. Torch would be faster but didn't feel like breaking it out.



Not 100% perfect but the sander was able to hit the oem clear in the middle of the ding when flat so it's really close, close enough for a couple coats of primer to finish it. forgot to take pic of the rear quarter and too lazy to go back out in the rain to the shop. LOL



Getting close. Covered interior, top and engine bay to keep the majority of the dust out.

[itdnwiwbp]

Really impressed with your work. Can't wait for the paint to arrive!

[pmmjarrett]

Originally Posted by itdnwiwbp

Really impressed with your work. Can't wait for the paint to arrive!

Thank you. Soon, very soon. Paint shipped today UPS and should be here friday




I've been scuffing the hard stuff today with a Maroon Scotch-Brite pad. Have to get all of those deep grooves and corners good. If it gets paint, scuff it. Make sure to hit all of the edges really good too to prevent paint from chipping easily in the future.

When I'm giving panels the final scuff before paint I don't skip around and work on different areas of the car. I start with one panel and don't move to the next one until it is completely cherried out then then move to the one next to it. I started with the left front fender and worked clockwise around the car. All I have left on the main portion of the body is the drivers door and door jamb. I do the same thing when disassembling the car, wiping down with prep-sol and/or reducer and working the big areas with a palm sander. By staying on one panel until that portion of the job is done makes it a lot harder to miss something.

One thing I notice on this car is it looks like BMW never clear coated any surfaces under the hood or trunk. Inside of the hood, trunk, trunk compartment and engine compartment is all flat black. Everything still has the OEM decals and no evidence any collission work was done on the car other than the front fender which I knew about because of the CARFAX. I do know the Z4s in colors other than black have body color in these areas as well as the firewall and innrefenders but I wonder if they are flat or glossy.

Doesn't really matter to me as I'm leaving these areas flat black. The flat black gives me the option to leave the underside of the hood and trunk in flat black and easily make it look like a factory paint job and not a half azzed job after I kandy it up to the edges where the outer skin is folded over and/or welded to the inner skin.



I'm painting the inside edge of the fenders



Inside of the hood is flat black. Painting the outer edge on the sides and the inside edges on the front and back where the aluminum skin is rolled over. Tape off areas you are not painting so you don't accidentally scuff them too.



This ws a PITA to sand... I get to do the other side tomorrow YAY!!!



I'm painting the inside of the door up to where the butyl tape is.



Don't forget to scuff deep into the groove next to the windshield.

[marksdesigns]

love the way we get a little of your life story mixed in with detailed Z4 work! great stuff!

[pmmjarrett]

Originally Posted by marksdesigns

love the way we get a little of your life story mixed in with detailed Z4 work! great stuff!

Thanks. If I gave my whole life story, everyone that read this thread would become "damaged goods"... or at least more damaged than they already were


Paint did arrive friday as scheduled. Got a little distracted friday after sleeping in until about noon so I didn't get much work done.

Today I filled a couple small holes in the front bumper with Evercoat Maxim medium urethane adhesive They also have a fast and a superfast formula of this epoxy too. I personally like more time to work it than the fast and superfast which is why I opt for medium. Everything is now sanded and ready for paint. For the next 3 days I have a nearly perfect weather forcast for painting, Temps in the low 70s, humidity isn't too high, low wind speeds so it won't be kicking up dust or shaking the shop.... Game on.

Tommorrow I plan to build a stand for the bumpers skirts and small parts, get the car wiped down and masked off and shoot a little 2k primer build on areas I did body work to block them out.


1 of the holes in the bumper. As chewed up as the whole bottom of this bumper is, I would guess a PO had a steep incline drive they had to go up every day.


Filled with Evercoat Maxim and sanded with P80 and P320 DA. Sands pretty easy.


Small parts ready to go.


I pulled the top up manually and covered it in a plastic mask. This is plastic sheeting that is made for masking cars, not a drop cloth or plastic sheeting from Lowe's or Home Depot. Only one side is paintable and it is marked.


I can't wait to let this stuff out of the can.

[Finnegan]

I'm really enjoying seeing the entire process and each step of the job.

Subscribed. This is going to be one unique and sweet ride!

[pmmjarrett]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

I'm really enjoying seeing the entire process and each step of the job.

Subscribed. This is going to be one unique and sweet ride!

Thank you. I can't wait to get the Z back together so I can drive it. Rowing the 6 speed in my old dually is not fun like rowing the 6 speed in this thing is.



Looking like tuesday for paint, didn't get quite as far s I wanted too today.

Got the bumpers, skirts and small parts hung on the BMW christmas tree. No need for expensive specialty parts stands although they would have save a lot of time. An old swimming pool ladder, some scrap wood, a few drywall screws, duct tape, masking tape and welding wire is all you need. Redneck heaven LOL.



When hanging the small parts, secure them so they don't move around much. It's a reap PITA to paint a part that moves all over the place when you hit it with the spray gun.



I tuck tape around the edges of windows. Makes for a nice clean job even though you can't see it when you put the trim back on.



I mask vehicles all the way to the floor unless I'm using a down draft booth. Any dust under the vehicle won't get kicked up, it's trapped. I also mask inner fenders instead of just covering the tires and using a rattle can with flat black to clean up the fenderwells when done like a lot of shops do.



Get that plastic nice and tight. Always put a litle tape over corners and sharp edges like where the mount for the armrest hits the plastic here. I've also taped a pad to the armrest mount on the door.

[pmmjarrett]

Car is ready for paint, weather was perfect for paint....... and then paint problems with some lifting putting down the 2nd coat of silver metallic urethane base on the right front fender and the front bumper. I think I know what I did wrong too. I may have not left enough time to flash for the sealer or I put down the first base coat a little too wet and not enough time for it to flash off before putting down a second coat. Whatever happened, the solvents in the base got trapped and made it through the sealer to the old base and for whatever reason I'm not really surprised that the lifting occured on parts of the car that were refinished by a PO... especially as chitty of a job that was done. Oh well, sand it, seal it and try it again tomorrow.

Note to self: You can't lay these new paints down heavy like you did with the old school single stage enamels you sprayed 20 years ago moron :banghead:



Wet down floors and walls to reduce dust and if painting in a garage instead of a paint booth, make sure to cover EVERYTHING you don't want to get paint on. I sealed off 1/2 of my 30'x50' shop and have positive airflow from the side that is closed off to prevent any paint dust from drifting through areas that I can't seal 100%



Was almost ready for Kandy



It's really a nice silver metal flake. Coarse flake but not like a bass boat. This silver metallic is pretty much like shooting pure flake in a clear coat. There is not much pigmnt at all which should add even more depth to the kandy.



I absolutly hate doing the same job twice. The feeling when you see this happen is pure disgust and instantly peeved to put it lightly. I think I uttered some words that would have shocked an old sailor..

[mgwatson48]

You're a braver man than I! Looks good so far minus the little paint blip, but nothing a little sanding can't fix! I'm subscribed til the end! Keep it up!

[3point0]

honestly i'm in awe and wish i had a shop like that at my disposal. keep up the good work, sure it's going to look great in the end

[pmmjarrett]

Thanks MGwatson & 3point.

Paint isn't someting anyone with some decent mechanical background and is good at problem solving should be afraid of. Paint and problem solving go hand in hand. Silicone, dust, bugs, humidity, temperature, poor previous work, bumping the paint with your air hose, moisture in the air lines, plugged vent on the spray gun causing it to spit, overspray etc... You can spend a quarter million on the best equipment money can buy and you will still see the same problems a DIYer in a garage like myself runs across.

Make a mistake or have a problem, STOP!!, don't touch it or do anything to the paint. Trust me, it usually makes a bigger mess. Figure out what went wrong, plan the next step and fix it. It's just time and money LOL.



Basecoat lifting problems fixed. I finished repairing the base coat in the wee hours of the morning. several coats of wine red Kandy urethane laid down. Having a little problem with dust today so I'm going to let the kandy cure so I can sand it smooth and denib it before putting down clear. I'm done until at least friday and plan to finish spraying on saturday. I can't wait to see this in full sunlight, pics don't do this color justice.


Fender repaired.



Wine Kandy

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by pmmjarrett

Car is ready for paint, weather was perfect for paint....... and then paint problems with some lifting putting down the 2nd coat of silver metallic urethane base on the right front fender and the front bumper. I think I know what I did wrong too. I may have not left enough time to flash for the sealer or I put down the first base coat a little too wet and not enough time for it to flash off before putting down a second coat. Whatever happened, the solvents in the base got trapped and made it through the sealer to the old base and for whatever reason I'm not really surprised that the lifting occured on parts of the car that were refinished by a PO... especially as chitty of a job that was done. Oh well, sand it, seal it and try it again tomorrow.

Note to self: You can't lay these new paints down heavy like you did with the old school single stage enamels you sprayed 20 years ago moron :banghead:

I absolutly hate doing the same job twice. The feeling when you see this happen is pure disgust and instantly peeved to put it lightly. I think I uttered some words that would have shocked an old sailor..

I read this last night (on my crappy phone, since my home computer is under repair, or I would have commented then).

My wife, who is an artist, was working out in her studio while I was catching up on forum stuff. Next thing I know, there's a lot of those same sailor words flying out from the studio, along with commentary in between about how she "didn't let the last coat dry before adding a new layer and it's seeping through", and how with the damp weather she should have accounted for drying times, etc..

This particular piece was on wood with something like 15 layers (I think there are 10 more to go). As in your case, the piece was saved, but not before a lot of remedial work. The feelings described pretty well matched yours. I mentioned this post, and she said "I know just how he feels".

Well, today is a new day, and it looks like you both have made great progress! It's looking good!

[pmmjarrett]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

I read this last night (on my crappy phone, since my home computer is under repair, or I would have commented then).

My wife, who is an artist, was working out in her studio while I was catching up on forum stuff. Next thing I know, there's a lot of those same sailor words flying out from the studio, along with commentary in between about how she "didn't let the last coat dry before adding a new layer and it's seeping through", and how with the damp weather she should have accounted for drying times, etc..

This particular piece was on wood with something like 15 layers (I think there are 10 more to go). As in your case, the piece was saved, but not before a lot of remedial work. The feelings described pretty well matched yours. I mentioned this post, and she said "I know just how he feels".

Well, today is a new day, and it looks like you both have made great progress! It's looking good!

I'm sure glad she was able to save it, and on wood too, that's scary. Oh it's just utterly disgusting and all you can do is sit there and watch it happen before your eyes and pray it doesn't get too much worse.

The base coats in base coat / clear coat systems will lift if you don't wait long enough between coats but the poly urethane clears and kandies you put over them will lift if you wait too long between coats unless you let them cure at least 12 hrs scuff with 600 - 1000 grit and then start over.

I can't do anyting with wood but I can make anything out of metal. I'm not much of a creative artist but I can duplicate what I can see and stare at something like my Z for a minute and then close my eyes and visualize what I want it look like before it's done. My hat is off to your Lady!

[KLH]

That's going to look gooooood! Can't wait to see the pics of the finished product.

[BIMMERGUY91]

Cant wait to see the finished results! Looking good! I love your shop, what are the dimensions? We are getting ready to build a shop and were looking at 40'x80'

[pmmjarrett]

Thank you KLH

Originally Posted by BIMMERGUY91

Cant wait to see the finished results! Looking good! I love your shop, what are the dimensions? We are getting ready to build a shop and were looking at 40'x80'

Thank you. My shop is a 30' x 50' with a 12' eave and a 3/12 pitch roof. Main doors are 10' x 10' roll ups. It's a hurricane rated building for wind loads of 120 mph and doors are rated at 150 mph IIRC

I bought the building kit, doors and windows from Buck Steel I had them do all the engineering drawings and foundation drawings for the building codes in this area too.

An engineered foundation for a steel building cost quite a bit more than pouring concrete in a pole barn. Was $10k for concrete. Hardest part was finding a contractor that knew what he was doing with this type of foundation.

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by pmmjarrett

I'm sure glad she was able to save it, and on wood too, that's scary. Oh it's just utterly disgusting and all you can do is sit there and watch it happen before your eyes and pray it doesn't get too much worse.

The base coats in base coat / clear coat systems will lift if you don't wait long enough between coats but the poly urethane clears and kandies you put over them will lift if you wait too long between coats unless you let them cure at least 12 hrs scuff with 600 - 1000 grit and then start over.

I can't do anyting with wood but I can make anything out of metal. I'm not much of a creative artist but I can duplicate what I can see and stare at something like my Z for a minute and then close my eyes and visualize what I want it look like before it's done. My hat is off to your Lady!

Thanks! I can't wait to see the final results of your work! I think it's going to be great. Here's a sample of the type of thing she does with wood. Pictures don't do the depth/layering justice though! She says the same thing about metal as you do about wood. Maybe you're not an artist, but the creative part, yes, it's there if you can close your eyes and visualize!

[gas-can]

I love your shop! And the attention to detail!

You are going to have a truly one of a kind car after this is finished. Can't wait for the end product.

I really want some wine after reading this thread though

gas-can

[pokeybritches]

Love the color!

[pmmjarrett]

Thanks! I can't wait to see the final results of your work! I think it's going to be great. Here's a sample of the type of thing she does with wood. Pictures don't do the depth/layering justice though! She says the same thing about metal as you do about wood. Maybe you're not an artist, but the creative part, yes, it's there if you can close your eyes and visualize!

Awsum. Layering over clear to give it a bit of a 3d or holographic look... Hmmmmm... Not sure if that was the right word to use but that's all my simple mind could come up with after sniffing paint all day LOL. Yes folks, I'm wearing the proper 3M respirator, a painters sock and suit.

I love your shop! And the attention to detail!

You are going to have a truly one of a kind car after this is finished. Can't wait for the end product.

I really want some wine after reading this thread though

gas-can

Love the color!

Thank you. I can't wait to see it in full sunlight.







Finished sanding the Kandy coat and doing a little touchup... and then managed to screw up the spot I touched up and blended. Oh well, it's a spot I can work on later down the road when I get motivated to fix it. They say you can't blend kandy and most painters insist you have to repaint the entire panel to get a color match but that's B. S. I know how and I'm good at it.

Laid down one more full coat of Kandy and 4 coats of clear. There's a total of 3 coats of silver, 4 coats of urethane kandy and 4 coats of high solids clear now. A few bugs committed suicide in the clear today. Real pain picking them out as bad as my eyesight is without glasses on but I can't see through my glasses when I get paint dust on them either LOL. Not a big deal in the clear. I usually spray 2-3 coats of clear but gave it the extra coat to sand out bugs and dust in a garage paint job.





The real moment of truth comes when you can pull off the masking and see you did a good job masking and didn't get overspray on anything. Then you can finally breath easier.







And most importantly the interior and convertable top. Whew. I can sleep good tonight.