Z4 M Coupe rear sway bar

[z4mcoupePQ]

First off let me say that I've owned my Z4 for about 3 years now and I'm finally getting around to my suspension upgrades which I planned day one but needed to pay off other things in life first before I could get to this.

I'm in the process of installing an MCS 2 way setup (non-reservoir) with Vorshlag camber plates and H&R sway bars front and rear.

The front went together without any issues.

The rear, however has turned into my kryptonite.

The new shocks and springs are all installed.

The car is off the ground on stands (actually my new QuickJack system which is awesome).

I need some guidance on how to uninstall the stock rear sway bar.

Is there more than one way to uninstall the rear sway bar or is there only one way to do it?

I've unbolted the rear sway bar from chassis and uninstall the sway bar links (still attached to the bar but installed from the car).

I guess its down to how much of the car I need to dismantle to get the rear bar off the car.

I assume install would be the opposite but again if there is a "secret sauce" that you can share please help a brother out.

Thanks in advance
Paul Q

[SaltyNC]

Sounds like you have most of it done. See step 10, below:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

Salty

[z4mcoupePQ]

Originally Posted by SaltyNC

Sounds like you have most of it done. See step 10, below:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

Salty

I started today with that Pelican article in-hand and I followed the steps.

I haven't taken out the 4 bolts yet (marked in red in the Pelican DIY) but I will.

Knowing what Pelican is requesting that you remove in step 10, I sat there looking at where the sway bar is and the lack of movement it has in that space and I couldn't figure out how the bar would make it to that exit.

I will try that tomorrow and see if it works.

[z4mcoupePQ]

Update: The Pelican article runs short of the steps required to remove the rear sway bar.

Step 10 doesn't get the job done (doesn't provide a path for the sway bar to be removed).

SaltyNC -- Not sure if you removed the rear sway bar on a Z4M but if you have please share the secret sauce.

Anyone else out here who has actually removed and replaced the rear sway bar on a Z4 M, I'd like to get your input on the missing steps that Pelican did not provide.

Do you need to drop the X pipe? Do you just need to remove the exhaust cans?

I obviously prefer to NOT take the entire rear of the car apart to get this done which is why I'm looking for input from folks who might have done this job before.

Thanks
Paul Q

[Steeler]

Not sure how similar the rear suspension between the non M and an M is. I have had my rear bar out a couple of times but can’t remember 100% how I did it
Here is a link to a non M R&R
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1345

[SaltyNC]

Paul, I haven't removed my rear sway bar, but I have swapped mufflers a few times, and had examined my sway bar bushing mounts to make sure they were tight while I had the mufflers off. It's been around a year, so my memory isn't the best, but I thought it was a straight shot to the sway bar with the muffler cans out of the way. Of course, the plastic panel would need to be removed and the reinforcements shown in the Pelican photo. Wish I could be more help.

Edit: You probably don't have to remove the mufflers, but it would just give you more room to work the bar out with a lot less frustration. You could probably leave the muffler on the hangers and just unbolt them from the pipes, and you could pass the bar between the pipe and muffler flange by spreading it apart. There is a good bit of movement allowed. I think what Pelican was suggesting is to remove the bolts on the reinforcement "rods" or whatever they are called, and push them out of the way, then leave the plastic air duct panel attached to the bumper, but remove the four bolts and just let the front of that panel flop down enough behind the diff, so you can work out the sway bar. But I'm going by memory, so I may be full of it.


Salty

[z4mcoupePQ]

dbarton62 -- Thanks for your input. Yes, BMW managed to make the M version a little more complicated than the non M. I've seen some information on web on removing the non M rear bar and it looks slightly easier.

SaltyNC -- I think your recollection is about right. My next move is to completely pull down the plastic shield, move those cross brace bars out of the way and unbolt the cans (keeping them on the hangers) and then seeing if that works. Hopefully, I won't need to pull down the X pipe. Probably won't be able to work on it until tomorrow night.

[StickMon]

If you're removing the rear cross bars, you may want to have a read through this thread.

[F360C]

Done this a bunch and tried every which way to remove it with out removing the xpipe and cans. I haven't found a way to do it then is easier then taking the whole exhaust out especially since you have a lift.

When I do this is usually take the entire exhaust out as one piece from the headers back. Section one, xpipe and cans all still connected and the four rubber exhaust hangers unbolted from the car and still bolted to the exhaust. I do it this way for a two reasons:
1. first and foremost, when I have my car on my lift it is easier to get to the front 4 bolts that connect to the headers to the section 1 then getting to the 4 of the 6 bolts that connect the section 1 to the xpipe. Those top two on the xpipe are pain.
2. I don't like having to align the exhaust. I must have adjusted the exhaust can 20 times the last time I took then off... by leaving the hangers on and xpipe connected when you bolt it back up it all goes right back to where it was before.

[SaltyNC]

Paul, the second pic here shows the path I was thinking of. It would drop straight down behind the differential once the cross-braces are pushed out of the way.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post24091091

I'm not making an argument for doing it one way or another, just trying to provide some info.


Salty

[ZAR4MC]

removing the sway bar is pretty easy... there's 2 alan head bolts on the rear holding the bushing in each cup and then there's a number 13 nut and bolt that connects to the stabilizer end links on either side, open those and you should be able to just drop it out... I removed it on the M3 and Mcoupe when rebuilding the diffs.

I suggest opening the 13 nut and bolts first (remove rim and enter through that angle) .... then open the 4 alan head bolts at the back and pull it out.

[z4mcoupePQ]

Originally Posted by ZAR4MC

removing the sway bar is pretty easy... there's 2 alan head bolts on the rear holding the bushing in each cup and then there's a number 13 nut and bolt that connects to the stabilizer end links on either side, open those and you should be able to just drop it out... I removed it on the M3 and Mcoupe when rebuilding the diffs.

I suggest opening the 13 nut and bolts first (remove rim and enter through that angle) .... then open the 4 alan head bolts at the back and pull it out.

Thanks for the input but your explanation doesn't account for the exhaust system and the cross braces that are in the way of rear sway bar removal.

[ZAR4MC]

Originally Posted by z4mcoupePQ

Thanks for the input but your explanation doesn't account for the exhaust system and the cross braces that are in the way of rear sway bar removal.

Ah shucks... I removed the diff so i had to remove the exhaust and the cross braces. The exhaust can we unbolted from the catalytic converters and the back boxes.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by SaltyNC

Paul, the second pic here shows the path I was thinking of. It would drop straight down behind the differential once the cross-braces are pushed out of the way.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post24091091

I'm not making an argument for doing it one way or another, just trying to provide some info.


Salty

^whs
I've had mine off several times and this method works.