Alternator Tools?

[unluky]

I have a alternator and new belts coming to hopefully fix my dash Christmas tree light situation.

Once it arrives I will have to run over to my shop and do the install.

My questions is - it looks like there might be some "special" tools needed. Like maybe the bit/socket needed to release the tensioner maybe? I can't seem to find a answer for the M54 directly. Found them for the S54 but not the M54. Maybe a 8mm Allen bit is what the S54 shows - M54 the same??

I don't want to be elbow deep in this at midnight and then find out I can't finish due to a stupid torx bit or whatever I don't have the right size for if that makes sense? I'd like to buy everything I need before I start.

I am replacing both belts, alternator and vog reg while I am in there. At 15 years and 90K miles - I am sure they need them anyway no matter how easy of a life it has had.

Anyone steer me in the right direction or recommend a place to search further?

Thank you in advance!

Matt

[GuidoK]

Since when is an 8mm allen bit a 'special tool'?
Imho thats part of a basic tool set for a 'shop'

You'll need a t50 allen key iirc, a philips screwdriver, a socket set and probably a t30 bit/key/driver.

Whats a "vog reg"?

[unluky]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

Since when is an 8mm allen bit a 'special tool'?
Imho thats part of a basic tool set for a 'shop'

You'll need a t50 allen key iirc, a philips screwdriver, a socket set and probably a t30 bit/key/driver.

Whats a "vog reg"?

Well.....I don't have one! I have plenty of Allen wrenches but not the bits. Besides I was not sure that is what mine needed or not and I'd hate to find out 1/2 way in and then have to stop and hit the store the next day.

Cool, I'll make sure I have a T50 and T30 on hand before hand just in case.
bit

Oh and that was supposed to be Vol Reg.

See, I still don't need that 8mm hex Allen bit! =)

Thank you!

[Fungshui]

I bought this set to help remove the alternator pulley on the M54 on my ZHP.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../s15-hbs1406t/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/83300491167/

The alternator was a pain in the butt to break loose. I would recommend preparing a dead blow hammer and a piece of wood to help dislodge.

Here is the DIY link I used for reference:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-replacement

[unluky]

Originally Posted by Fungshui

I bought this set to help remove the alternator pulley on the M54 on my ZHP.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../s15-hbs1406t/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/83300491167/

The alternator was a pain in the butt to break loose. I would recommend preparing a dead blow hammer and a piece to wood to help dislodge.

Here is the DIY link I used for reference:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-replacement

Thank you!

you never know till you get in there and then having to go back out and get some stupid but and wasting a night you could have finished in is maddening!

[GuidoK]

Originally Posted by unluky

Well.....I don't have one! I have plenty of Allen wrenches but not the bits. Besides I was not sure that is what mine needed or not and I'd hate to find out 1/2 way in and then have to stop and hit the store the next day.

Cool, I'll make sure I have a T50 and T30 on hand before hand just in case.
bit

Oh and that was supposed to be Vol Reg.

See, I still don't need that 8mm hex Allen bit! =)

Thank you!

T30 you need to get the screws out that hold down the plastic cover that covers the radiator fan from above. together with the philips screwdriver. Be gentile when removing those plastic screws, they're the center of rivets and are very soft.
Remove the radiator fan and you have lots of room to free up the belts.
Its a 5 min job.
To get the alternator out you'll probaly have to remove the air filter housing.

[StickMon]

The hardest part is getting it back in and aligned to get the bolt through.
Have fun with that.

[unluky]

LOL - I went and bought a set that had the T50 in it. I pulled the car into my shop last night to get her lined up for the parts arrival this week and like always once I popped the hood I thought "might as well take that airbox out - only 2 bolts - I can do that in my work clothes"......a hour later the belt is off and the alternator is on the bench. AND I found I DID already have a T50 in my tool box! Idiot.

Now I see why people say to do the outside belt from underneath.....jeesh. If the Alt belt was on the outside this would have an hour job start to finish. Or if you are not replacing the belt. But I know how that goes - I put the old belt back on to be lazy - it will snap on my first time when I get away from home. Not falling for that one. Also not going to fight doing it from the top - just to save getting it in the air and dropping the bottom cover. Just do it and be done with it.

I don't see how removing the plastic radiator cover would help me though - there is a metal piece right below it unless that is something for non-electric fan cars maybe? I left it on and had plenty of room once I got the airbox out of the way.

Anyway - I see what you mean about getting that bottom bolt lined up and started - that might be fun! The tip I read about putting the bolt back in and tapping on it with a hammer to get the slide nut back inside the case was gold. Came right out after that. I squirted a little panther piss in there from the back first and it moved right back into place.

This site sure makes these unknown things easier - thanks for all the tips!

[GuidoK]

Originally Posted by unluky

I don't see how removing the plastic radiator cover would help me though - there is a metal piece right below it unless that is something for non-electric fan cars maybe? I left it on and had plenty of room once I got the airbox out of the way.

You need to remove that upper radiator cover if you want to get the fan out.
Once the fan is out, you have more room to fiddle with the belts, especially the aircon belt.

Swapping just the belts should be a ~15min job. Either from underneath as from above. Getting your car on a ramp or jackstands also takes time, so its pretty much the same doing it either way.

[unluky]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

You need to remove that upper radiator cover if you want to get the fan out.
Once the fan is out, you have more room to fiddle with the belts, especially the aircon belt.

Swapping just the belts should be a ~15min job. Either from underneath as from above. Getting your car on a ramp or jackstands also takes time, so its pretty much the same doing it either way.

My car has a metal brace between the electric fan and the motor with a few holes in it - so even taking that plastic cover off would still leave the metal brace in there. But either way, I got the belt and Alt off already with it on there, so I should be good to go. Maybe different than yours? I'll try and snap a pic as I am sure I am not describing it right.

The other tensioner for the AC belt is clear at the bottom - I saw many people say it is much easier to do from the bottom - and after looking at it I kind of agree. I'll look again tonight, but I have 2 high lift jacks, so it does not take long to put on under each side and get her in the air. Belts wont be here till tomorrow anyway, so no rush either way.

Appreciate all the tips!

[unluky]

Like this one

[GuidoK]

yeah and then you have some room to reach into the engine with your arms, through the crossframe and remove the belts.

Otherwise you have to go between the engine and crossframe.

With the airbox removed you have some extra room diagonally, but the alternator belt sits on the deep under and on the other side of course.

Of course from underneath is even more accesible, but you have to put the car on jackstands and remove the undertray. Thats work too and is mainly handy for the airco belt. The official way to remove the alternator belt is removing the upper radiator cover and remove the electric fan to gain sufficient access.

[unluky]

Originally Posted by GuidoK

yeah and then you have some room to reach into the engine with your arms, through the crossframe and remove the belts.

Otherwise you have to go between the engine and crossframe.

With the air box removed you have some extra room diagonally, but the alternator belt sits on the deep under and on the other side of course.

Of course from underneath is even more accessible, but you have to put the car on jackstands and remove the spashguard. That's work too and is mainly handy for the airco belt. The official way to remove the alternator belt is removing the upper radiator cover and remove the electric fan to gain sufficient access.

I see what you mean now - remove the plastic to allow you to reach THROUGH the cross brace. That makes sense now. I actually jacked the car up to make it easier to reach everything which then made it take 15 seconds with my drill and driver to take the splash guard off and everything was RIGHT there and easy to see and reach. Popped all the belts off in 5 seconds and when the parts get here today they will be easy to put in with it elevated like that too - great tips. I cleaned all the mating surfaces off, blew everything out and added a touch of anti-seize to the areas to make everything easier to slide back into place.

Both belts looked great. Not a single crack in either of them and both still supple, so I suspect they had been replaced before. BUT I'm not going to chance one breaking after I have them off just to save $30 in belts, so it is worth the piece of mind. Everything else looks great and spins free and smooth.

Hope to have her back on the bench and ready to go into the game by tonight. Weather is breaking - ready to get her washed up and top down!

Thanks again for the tips.

[unluky]

OK - that went together like a breeze! I didn't have a single issue aligning the bolts, but since I had all the parts out before my new ones arrived, I took the time to wire wheel the mating surfaces off, blow them out and add a slight touch of antiseize so maybe that helped me slide it right in. Bolt when in on the first try and started with the first twist. Maybe I got lucky.

Belts were super easy from the bottom, but I think you were right - could be done from the top, just a little more tight. But having the car on jacks made installing the alternator easier too (tummy level) so after that taking the few screws out the drop the splash guard with my cordless drill took 15 seconds. Made the AC belt a snap to do too. Had it back together in about 20 minutes not rushing. This is still one of the easiest cars I have ever owned to work on. OF course it is clean and never been wrecked, so that makes it easy too when everything comes on and off like it should.

Put about 50 miles on it last night and drove it today to work, no more Christmas tree of dash lights and power steering is working so I think I got what the issue was. Replaced my battery for nothing, but it was 8 years old, so I got my use out of it anyway.

NICE to have it back for spring weather, but I am not gonna lie - my new to me X5 is making this thing feel pretty under powered! =)

Thanks again for all the tips - always makes these things so much easier knowing what you are getting into. The knocking the slider nut back in and looking at belts from below were both nice time savers.

[StickMon]

Thanks for the tip on the antiseize.
I cleaned up the mating surfaces, but didn't lube her up.
Probably why I had to bonk it with a rubber mallet to get it back in.