Lotsa questions??

[Oldmcst]

I have owned a Nissan 240 Z, a Corvette and 2 Miatas. The Miatas were far and away the most fun and most reliable of all. I'm now considering a 2003-2008 Z4 and after quite a bit of investigation it appears the Miata is a far less expensive car to maintain BUT, I still want a Bimmer!! So, my questions are:

1 Which is the better automatic or manual transmission, the 5 speed or the 6 speed?

2 Can the simple maintenance (oil changes etc.) be done by a competent repair shop? (a friend of mine and previous BMW owner told me the oil changes had to be done at a BMW dealership due to proprietary computer resetting)

3 Can major maintenance such as valve adjustments, water pump replacement, AC repair etc. be done at a competent repair shop?

Any additional info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all responders

[B328iC]

I prefer the manual transmission.
I do my own oil changes.
Most good shops can handle working on a BMW. Yes the computer info is propitiatory but so is almost all cars now a days.

[XMetal]

1. Get the manual transmission. The BMW automatic of that generation is a weak point of the car.
2. Maintenance is pretty simple - much more simpler than other cars, IMHO. Everything is easy to get to as there are plenty of room. Some things may require a diagnostic tool to reset, but the maintenance light can be reset with some combination of the trip meter reset button/ignition key "handshake". You can pick up a cheap OBD2 reader from Ebay and an app on your smartphone as a diagnostic tool as well as reset the maintenance light.
3. Yes, most everything can be done at a competent repair shop - my car never saw a dealership since it's original warranty/maintenance had expired in 2012! There are no valve adjustments unless you get the M version.

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by XMetal

1. Get the manual transmission. The BMW automatic of that generation is a weak point of the car.
2. Maintenance is pretty simple - much more simpler than other cars, IMHO. Everything is easy to get to as there are plenty of room. Some things may require a diagnostic tool to reset, but the maintenance light can be reset with some combination of the trip meter reset button/ignition key "handshake". You can pick up a cheap OBD2 reader from Ebay and an app on your smartphone as a diagnostic tool as well as reset the maintenance light.
3. Yes, most everything can be done at a competent repair shop - my car never saw a dealership since it's original warranty/maintenance had expired in 2012! There are no valve adjustments unless you get the M version.

I agree with everything above except the first point my friend - the BMW automatic transmission is not a weak point in my experience. I have owned my 2006 Z4 3.0si with an automatic 6 speed transmission for ten years since 2009 and it has been bulletproof. I've been on this forum all that time and I don't recall anyone here ever reporting any significant issue with that transmission. A friend of mine has owned an almost identical Z4 since 2011 and he has had no issues with his automatic.

However, what is absolutely a weak point is the power top motor in the roadsters, non-M and M, 2003 to 2005 and the slightly refreshed 2006 to 2008 cars. The motor is located in the roof drain area of the car, just behind the driver, and if the drain gets plugged up, the motor can flood with water and fail as a result. Make sure to check that any roadster that you look at has a smoothly operating power top. Some cars have a manually operated roof, completely avoiding this problem. the 2006 to 2008 cars were supposedly equipped with a more water tight motor, but they can also fail. Another friend of mine power-washed his 2008 Z4 and two weeks later, the top motor was dead. It may or may not be a coincidence that a power washer was used. To be safe, hand wash the car and avoid spraying water at high pressure at the interface between the canvas top and the body of the car.

One other thing to perhaps avoid are cars equipped with a sequential manual gearbox, or "SMG" for short. With apologies in advance to anybody here who may have such a car, in my experience here, the SMG often doesn't work very well, has a high trouble rate, and is frequently difficult and expensive to repair. I think the SMG was dropped for the 2006 - 2008 cars.

This video will speak to some of your other questions.

Good luck!

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by Oldmcst

I have owned a Nissan 240 Z, a Corvette and 2 Miatas. The Miatas were far and away the most fun and most reliable of all. I'm now considering a 2003-2008 Z4 and after quite a bit of investigation it appears the Miata is a far less expensive car to maintain BUT, I still want a Bimmer!! So, my questions are:

1 Which is the better automatic or manual transmission, the 5 speed or the 6 speed?

2 Can the simple maintenance (oil changes etc.) be done by a competent repair shop? (a friend of mine and previous BMW owner told me the oil changes had to be done at a BMW dealership due to proprietary computer resetting)

3 Can major maintenance such as valve adjustments, water pump replacement, AC repair etc. be done at a competent repair shop?

Any additional info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all responders

A few questions back:

Purpose for car? Back road cruises, canyon carving, auto-x, track? All good things mind you, but variants of the Z4 suit some purposes better.

You've had high and low powered cars, and cars that place the driving experience (driver input, steering and car feedback) top of the list. Does steering feedback matter greatly? How much?

Sorry for the impertinence of the question, what's the budget like for maintenance?

The /M version offers hydraulic steering (right up there with best I've experienced), and higher strung engine (if you like high revving motors). But this comes at a bit of a price. There are valve adjustments, differential and transmission fluid replacements, that need to be done every 20 to 25,000 miles. That runs 1,200/1,700 USD depending on where you live. There's also the chance that the higher strung engine may need bearing replacement every 50k miles. That runs 1,700-2,000 USD. Brake rotors on the /M, parts alone, are around 700-800.

I would look at the 3.0 SI version of this car if that's a concern. The engine in that model has hydraulic self adjusting lifters, and while fluid replacements are still required, those are a fraction of the cost of a major maintenance on the /M. The only "downside" of the non-M is electric steering. It's actually pretty good, but in models prior to 2006, @huz- help me out here, there's a "sticky steering" issue with the electric steering especially if you live where it's hot.

Speaking of maintenance no matter what you buy or miles driven it's a ~15 year old car, and you should budget/plan on replacing FCABs, front control arms, RTABs, shocks/struts, possibly rotors Get a PPI, pre-purchase inspection, or receipts showing work recently done!!! You'll want to know what you're getting into before buying.

Some cars have meticulous owners (me, or most of the folks on this forum, for example) who are sticklers on maintenance. Others don't. This is why I prefer buying from an individual...I get a sense of what kind of care the car has received, and if they've got a folder of receipts showing what has/has not been done, you've got a better angle on the buy. That isn't the case with any dealer or used auto sales franchise.

Fresh bushings and shocks are essential if you want to really feel what a BMW is all about. After that 15+ years rubber goes bad, shocks give out. Stock shocks are over 50% gone IIRC after 30k miles, by 50k they are dead.

Not all of those may need doing, but it's good to account for in total cost of ownership and offering price (e.g. knock 1k off purchase price in negotiating if the rotors need replacement, knock another 1.5-2k off if the shocks are toast).

Replacing stock shocks/struts will run 1,200 or so in parts (new rubber pads for springs, etc.), bushings/parts (control arms, FCABs) around the same. Labor if you don't DIY for these parts will probably be 10 hours plus. Folks, feel free to correct me folks, as I usually do my own work, and I tend to be slow, so I don't count labor hours very often.

I'm not trying to scare you off, I'm trying to point you in the right direction, and set expectations on total cost of ownership for what is probably one of the finest driver's car on the planet, in SI or /M trim.

As far as transmission, if you like rowing your own gears I'd recommend the manual. I'm not aware of any Z4 being a 5 speed. I've experienced the 5 speed in the Z3, if it was an option on early Z MYs go for the 6 speed. Better feel and steps in gearing.

The engine on the SI models is pretty bullet proof with the exception of coolant expansion tanks (cheap fix/maintenance preventative measure). Expect for the SMG already mentioned, transmissions seem pretty worry free too. Roadster tops have already been covered (how's that pun lol).

Good luck with your search and feel free to ask more questions. One feature that comes with these cars is a very dedicated, civil, and knowledgeable group of enthusiasts who know these cars well, often do their own wrenching, and are great resources.

[Huz-Z]

"Roadster tops have already been covered (how's that pun lol)."

As Dr. Smith used to say on Lost in Space back in the 1960's, "Oh the pain"!

Awesome advice there Mr. Finnegan! Re the sticky steering, it most certainly seems to crop up in non-M cars in hot weather in the warmer parts of the continent. Oddly though, it seems that not all such cars are affected. There was a discussion here that concluded that non-M cars built after July 2006 were equipped with a revised steering column that should have fixed this. If you decide on an SI, to be safe, look at a car built in late 2006 or later. I also recall that some folks here have fixed this problem with a very backyard, but highly effective approach of installing grease nipples on the steering column and lubricating the column annually. I'm up here in Canada on the east cost where icebergs are common and if the temperature goes above 80F, people lose their minds and try to do a whole summer's worth of stuff in one day. So, I've never found an issue with my steering. But with global warming, who knows - I could soon be driving around cursing the lack of icebergs and my newly sticky steering.

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by Huz-Z

"Roadster tops have already been covered (how's that pun lol)."

As Dr. Smith used to say on Lost in Space back in the 1960's, "Oh the pain"!

Awesome advice there Mr. Finnegan! Re the sticky steering, it most certainly seems to crop up in non-M cars in hot weather in the warmer parts of the continent. Oddly though, it seems that not all such cars are affected. There was a discussion here that concluded that non-M cars built after July 2006 were equipped with a revised steering column that should have fixed this. If you decide on an SI, to be safe, look at a car built in late 2006 or later. I also recall that some folks here have fixed this problem with a very backyard, but highly effective approach of installing grease nipples on the steering column and lubricating the column annually. I'm up here in Canada on the east cost where icebergs are common and if the temperature goes above 80F, people lose their minds and try to do a whole summer's worth of stuff in one day. So, I've never found an issue with my steering. But with global warming, who knows - I could soon be driving around cursing the lack of icebergs and my newly sticky steering.

Thanks! You're my go to guy on the SI. I'd never considered sticky steering as a downside to climate change. Maybe it's time to think of starting an HVAC installation/retrofit company on PEI.

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Thanks! You're my go to guy on the SI. I'd never considered sticky steering as a downside to climate change. Maybe it's time to think of starting an HVAC installation/retrofit company on PEI.

Well thanks! I can't claim to be an all-knowing expert as I don't wrench on my car, but I do read this forum voraciously . I know that long time member Hawkeye knows quite a bit about the SI, he has a sweet SI Coupe with manual gearbox as I recall.

PEI is known for Anne of Green Gables and potatoes. As the climate changes and sea levels rise, I expect that they will have to build dykes around the place out of pumpkin-sized spuds to keep the place from going underwater - or dress up like Jason Momoa and his drum playing Octopus .

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by Huz-Z

Well thanks! I can't claim to be an all-knowing expert as I don't wrench on my car, but I do read this forum voraciously . I know that long time member Hawkeye knows quite a bit about the SI, he has a sweet SI Coupe with manual gearbox as I recall.

PEI is known for Anne of Green Gables and potatoes. As the climate changes and sea levels rise, I expect that they will have to build dykes around the place out of pumpkin-sized spuds to keep the place from going underwater - or dress up like Jason Momoa and his drum playing Octopus .

Yeah, that's it, you're like a built in Google search feature that works better than other forms of search on this forum.

And one can always count on your for a classic or current Sci-Fi reference. Aquaman .

[Oldmcst]

Hello to all of you and any others that may want to add their input. I am truly grateful for your thoughtful input. It is much needed advice. I have seen several previous warnings regarding the Z4's reliability , but after the valuable info you have provided I feel much more confident about purchasing one.

[Oldmcst]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

A few questions back:

Purpose for car? Back road cruises, canyon carving, auto-x, track? All good things mind you, but variants of the Z4 suit some purposes better.



You've had high and low powered cars, and cars that place the driving experience (driver input, steering and car feedback) top of the list. Does steering feedback matter greatly? How much?

Sorry for the impertinence of the question, what's the budget like for maintenance?

The /M version offers hydraulic steering (right up there with best I've experienced), and higher strung engine (if you like high revving motors). But this comes at a bit of a price. There are valve adjustments, differential and transmission fluid replacements, that need to be done every 20 to 25,000 miles. That runs 1,200/1,700 USD depending on where you live. There's also the chance that the higher strung engine may need bearing replacement every 50k miles. That runs 1,700-2,000 USD. Brake rotors on the /M, parts alone, are around 700-800.

I would look at the 3.0 SI version of this car if that's a concern. The engine in that model has hydraulic self adjusting lifters, and while fluid replacements are still required, those are a fraction of the cost of a major maintenance on the /M. The only "downside" of the non-M is electric steering. It's actually pretty good, but in models prior to 2006, @huz- help me out here, there's a "sticky steering" issue with the electric steering especially if you live where it's hot.

Speaking of maintenance no matter what you buy or miles driven it's a ~15 year old car, and you should budget/plan on replacing FCABs, front control arms, RTABs, shocks/struts, possibly rotors Get a PPI, pre-purchase inspection, or receipts showing work recently done!!! You'll want to know what you're getting into before buying.

Some cars have meticulous owners (me, or most of the folks on this forum, for example) who are sticklers on maintenance. Others don't. This is why I prefer buying from an individual...I get a sense of what kind of care the car has received, and if they've got a folder of receipts showing what has/has not been done, you've got a better angle on the buy. That isn't the case with any dealer or used auto sales franchise.

Fresh bushings and shocks are essential if you want to really feel what a BMW is all about. After that 15+ years rubber goes bad, shocks give out. Stock shocks are over 50% gone IIRC after 30k miles, by 50k they are dead.

Not all of those may need doing, but it's good to account for in total cost of ownership and offering price (e.g. knock 1k off purchase price in negotiating if the rotors need replacement, knock another 1.5-2k off if the shocks are toast).

Replacing stock shocks/struts will run 1,200 or so in parts (new rubber pads for springs, etc.), bushings/parts (control arms, FCABs) around the same. Labor if you don't DIY for these parts will probably be 10 hours plus. Folks, feel free to correct me folks, as I usually do my own work, and I tend to be slow, so I don't count labor hours very often.

I'm not trying to scare you off, I'm trying to point you in the right direction, and set expectations on total cost of ownership for what is probably one of the finest driver's car on the planet, in SI or /M trim.

As far as transmission, if you like rowing your own gears I'd recommend the manual. I'm not aware of any Z4 being a 5 speed. I've experienced the 5 speed in the Z3, if it was an option on early Z MYs go for the 6 speed. Better feel and steps in gearing.

The engine on the SI models is pretty bullet proof with the exception of coolant expansion tanks (cheap fix/maintenance preventative measure). Expect for the SMG already mentioned, transmissions seem pretty worry free too. Roadster tops have already been covered (how's that pun lol).

Good luck with your search and feel free to ask more questions. One feature that comes with these cars is a very dedicated, civil, and knowledgeable group of enthusiasts who know these cars well, often do their own wrenching, and are great resources.

Mostly just every day HI way driving, some curvy roads, maybe a long distance drive. Possibly 500 mi. per day. I'm looking for the fun of a Miata with the comfortable seating and quiet of a top up Z4. Which means steering feedback is important but not race track important. I've read of the "sticky" steering, but should not be a problem in Indiana. I'm sure the "M" is out of my price range. 12K max is my top $$. I would only get a mantran if I bought another NB Miata. My '06 with the 6 speed auto is just fine.
The only reason I'm selling my NC Miata is because of uncomfortable seats and noisy top up touring. My wife does not like it near as well as our old NB Miata. And you all know, If Momma ain't happy, yadda, yadda.
All that being said, it appears that any 2003 and up in well cared for condition is my best bet.

Thank you for your very informative input.

[Huz-Z]

Good luck with the search and keep us informed when there is news. If you think of anything else in the meantime, we’ll be here!

[Our03z4]

As an current owner of a 2003 2.5i 5spd roadster and an 08 3.0si coupe with the auto I would go with the 03-05 model with the 3.0i and 6spd. The 08 is much more difficult to work on with many more sensors and things to go wrong. I miss the manual trans when I drive that car. The only major thing that is better on the 08 is no jittery steering which totally kills the experience on the 03. It is fixable now though and I plan on doing so. The 03 is just such a simple car, enjoyable to work on actually. Parts are cheap and though nla at the dealer easily obtainable from after market sources. I plan on selling the roadster but every time I drive it I feel I would regret that decision. The 03 just feels like more of a drivers car than the later models, sure I'll get slammed for that. I have 140k on the 03 and haven't had any major issues that I couldn't easily handle. The 08 is a different story, hate working on it, no room under the hood and the fact that it doesn't have an oil dipstick bugs me to no end. Oh and to change the trans fluid and seals you have to replace was $900 compared to $85 to change the gear oil on the 03 at the same BMW shop. Pan is only one time use...crazy!

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by Our03z4

As an current owner of a 2003 2.5i 5spd roadster and an 08 3.0si coupe with the auto I would go with the 03-05 model with the 3.0i and 6spd. The 08 is much more difficult to work on with many more sensors and things to go wrong. I miss the manual trans when I drive that car. The only major thing that is better on the 08 is no jittery steering which totally kills the experience on the 03. It is fixable now though and I plan on doing so. The 03 is just such a simple car, enjoyable to work on actually. Parts are cheap and though nla at the dealer easily obtainable from after market sources. I plan on selling the roadster but every time I drive it I feel I would regret that decision. The 03 just feels like more of a drivers car than the later models, sure I'll get slammed for that. I have 140k on the 03 and haven't had any major issues that I couldn't easily handle. The 08 is a different story, hate working on it, no room under the hood and the fact that it doesn't have an oil dipstick bugs me to no end. Oh and to change the trans fluid and seals you have to replace was $900 compared to $85 to change the gear oil on the 03 at the same BMW shop. Pan is only one time use...crazy!

Great input. I see no issues with that perception of the 03. I have a Z3, and while the Z4 is my fav, the Z3s more untamed and crazier driving characteristics have a charm of their own. Just because something is older doesn't mean it isn't fun

That oil pan...ouch. At least you don't have SMG...I have friends who are into thousands on pumps, relays, etc. SMG parts cost an arm and a leg. Most are one more fail away from swapping in a 6MT. Cheaper.

[Efthreeoh]

I'll chime in. I have an '08 Z4 3.0si Coupe. This car has the N52 (engine) and a manual transmission with 98,000 miles (I bought it at 23,000 5 years ago); it's bullet-proof. As my daily driver, I also have a 2006 E90 (325i 4-door sedan) with the same N52 (with a few exceptions) and a manual transmission. The E90 just passed 379,000 miles last week. I have a buddy that has a 2007 Z4 3.0si roadster with somewhere north of 90,000 miles. I've worked on his car and driven it. It is in similar shape to my Coupe.

The N52 does have a few possible common problems which are: leaking valve cover gaskets, leaking oil pan gaskets, leaking oil filter housing gaskets. All come at mileages well over 150,000 miles. Any experienced BMW independent mechanic by now will be familiar with these issues and all but the pan gasket are not expensive to repair. The N52 is also prone to a failing water pump, but the '08 models use a redesigned pump and are less prone to failure. This is also a well-known problem. I'll add, that at 11 years and 98,000 miles, my Z4 has yet to show any these problems. I do all my own repairs and maintenance and I'm very familiar with the Z4 platform after 5 years of owning it. I've just changed fluids in it as maintenance items and no repairs to this point.

I've owned BMWs for 30 years; 4 cars, three which I still have. BMWs are known to require repairs and can be expensive to own. DIY'ing is the best way to own an older BMW; however, if you educate yourself with the common issues all BMWs will have and build a good relationship with your mechanic, not DIY'ing maintenance and repairs is tolerable. But my experience with my Z4 (and my buddy's) is the E85/E86 chassis is one of the best built BMWs you can own and will give you little trouble; I'd never hesitate to suggest to anyone to own a E85/86 Z4. The Z4 convertible top I can't speak too, but any convertible can be problematic (I have a 1997 Z3 roadster, so I know). My buddy's Z4 has the original top and it is in very good shape at 12 years old.

Lastly, get a manual transmission. No sports car should have an automatic IMO.

My 2 cents.

[Oldmcst]

Originally Posted by Our03z4

As an current owner of a 2003 2.5i 5spd roadster and an 08 3.0si coupe with the auto I would go with the 03-05 model with the 3.0i and 6spd. The 08 is much more difficult to work on with many more sensors and things to go wrong. I miss the manual trans when I drive that car. The only major thing that is better on the 08 is no jittery steering which totally kills the experience on the 03. It is fixable now though and I plan on doing so. The 03 is just such a simple car, enjoyable to work on actually. Parts are cheap and though nla at the dealer easily obtainable from after market sources. I plan on selling the roadster but every time I drive it I feel I would regret that decision. The 03 just feels like more of a drivers car than the later models, sure I'll get slammed for that. I have 140k on the 03 and haven't had any major issues that I couldn't easily handle. The 08 is a different story, hate working on it, no room under the hood and the fact that it doesn't have an oil dipstick bugs me to no end. Oh and to change the trans fluid and seals you have to replace was $900 compared to $85 to change the gear oil on the 03 at the same BMW shop. Pan is only one time use...crazy!

"JITTERY STEERING"? As in tire balance, wheel alignment or just inherent in the car?

[Our03z4]

Originally Posted by Oldmcst

"JITTERY STEERING"? As in tire balance, wheel alignment or just inherent in the car?

The actual electric steering binds up in the column. $4500 part but the German forums have figured out a fairly simple fix, just takes a few hours, busted nuckles, and no money to fix. There is a ring that you have to turn to put it back in to spec. The Euro models are much better to repair since they have no knee airbags.

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by Oldmcst

"JITTERY STEERING"? As in tire balance, wheel alignment or just inherent in the car?

All the non-M cars were factory equipped with runflat tires which made the ride very harsh and caused the car to tramline, or steer into road ruts and the like - both hands firmly on the wheel were needed for all but the smoothest pavement. Most folks corrected this very effectively by installing a good set of conventional tires at the very first opportunity. In my case, I ditched the original runflats for Hankook Ventus V12s and the difference was like night and day - a huge improvement. I am now running Michelin Pilot Super Sports and they are even better. Its been a long-held opinion of mine that BMW sabotaged much of the car's sales potential by installing "those ridiculous runflats" as Richard Hammond of Top Gear called them, which may have caused many potential Z4 purchasers to look elsewhere after a test drive.

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by Our03z4

The actual electric steering binds up in the column. $4500 part but the German forums have figured out a fairly simple fix, just takes a few hours, busted nuckles, and no money to fix. There is a ring that you have to turn to put it back in to spec. The Euro models are much better to repair since they have no knee airbags.

Cool - got a link to that?

[gds52]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

A few questions back:

Purpose for car? Back road cruises, canyon carving, auto-x, track? All good things mind you, but variants of the Z4 suit some purposes better.

You've had high and low powered cars, and cars that place the driving experience (driver input, steering and car feedback) top of the list. Does steering feedback matter greatly? How much?

Sorry for the impertinence of the question, what's the budget like for maintenance?

The /M version offers hydraulic steering (right up there with best I've experienced), and higher strung engine (if you like high revving motors). But this comes at a bit of a price. There are valve adjustments, differential and transmission fluid replacements, that need to be done every 20 to 25,000 miles. That runs 1,200/1,700 USD depending on where you live. There's also the chance that the higher strung engine may need bearing replacement every 50k miles. That runs 1,700-2,000 USD. Brake rotors on the /M, parts alone, are around 700-800.

I would look at the 3.0 SI version of this car if that's a concern. The engine in that model has hydraulic self adjusting lifters, and while fluid replacements are still required, those are a fraction of the cost of a major maintenance on the /M. The only "downside" of the non-M is electric steering. It's actually pretty good, but in models prior to 2006, @huz- help me out here, there's a "sticky steering" issue with the electric steering especially if you live where it's hot.

Speaking of maintenance no matter what you buy or miles driven it's a ~15 year old car, and you should budget/plan on replacing FCABs, front control arms, RTABs, shocks/struts, possibly rotors Get a PPI, pre-purchase inspection, or receipts showing work recently done!!! You'll want to know what you're getting into before buying.

Some cars have meticulous owners (me, or most of the folks on this forum, for example) who are sticklers on maintenance. Others don't. This is why I prefer buying from an individual...I get a sense of what kind of care the car has received, and if they've got a folder of receipts showing what has/has not been done, you've got a better angle on the buy. That isn't the case with any dealer or used auto sales franchise.

Fresh bushings and shocks are essential if you want to really feel what a BMW is all about. After that 15+ years rubber goes bad, shocks give out. Stock shocks are over 50% gone IIRC after 30k miles, by 50k they are dead.

Not all of those may need doing, but it's good to account for in total cost of ownership and offering price (e.g. knock 1k off purchase price in negotiating if the rotors need replacement, knock another 1.5-2k off if the shocks are toast).

Replacing stock shocks/struts will run 1,200 or so in parts (new rubber pads for springs, etc.), bushings/parts (control arms, FCABs) around the same. Labor if you don't DIY for these parts will probably be 10 hours plus. Folks, feel free to correct me folks, as I usually do my own work, and I tend to be slow, so I don't count labor hours very often.

I'm not trying to scare you off, I'm trying to point you in the right direction, and set expectations on total cost of ownership for what is probably one of the finest driver's car on the planet, in SI or /M trim.

As far as transmission, if you like rowing your own gears I'd recommend the manual. I'm not aware of any Z4 being a 5 speed. I've experienced the 5 speed in the Z3, if it was an option on early Z MYs go for the 6 speed. Better feel and steps in gearing.

The engine on the SI models is pretty bullet proof with the exception of coolant expansion tanks (cheap fix/maintenance preventative measure). Expect for the SMG already mentioned, transmissions seem pretty worry free too. Roadster tops have already been covered (how's that pun lol).

Good luck with your search and feel free to ask more questions. One feature that comes with these cars is a very dedicated, civil, and knowledgeable group of enthusiasts who know these cars well, often do their own wrenching, and are great resources.

This thread should be closed after this post

As always, great source of detailed information from you sir

[KevinC]

Whatever you do, avoid the early cars with the very early SMG-1 auto-manual. I'm not a fan of any of the BMW SMG gearboxes, but that one in particular is a dog with fleas.

I'm a former Datsun Z-car owner too, and I trace my love of the early Z's - I had a '73 240Z and a '78 280Z back in the day - to my love of the Z4 M Coupe. It's about the closest thing to the original Z in appearance of anything that came afterwards.

[Our03z4]

Originally Posted by gds52

This thread should be closed after this post

As always, great source of detailed information from you sir

The 2.5i had a 5 speed manual transmission, great to throw around but sucks for high way cruising.