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SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS! |
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08-17-2019, 08:03 PM | #23 | ||
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08-18-2019, 08:31 AM | #24 |
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If it's engine-to-chassis ground you can verify with a jumper cable. There's a grounding post under the hood. Connect to that and a bare bolt or similar bare metal object on the motor.
I once worked on a buddy's MGB. It kept melting the plastic innards of the throttle cable. Turned out that the throttle cable was the only thing grounding the engine to the chassis; that poor cable was carrying 20+ amps, more when the starter cranked. |
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08-26-2019, 10:55 AM | #25 |
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Hopefully the final update to the thread:
I replaced the starter over the weekend. It was a bear to remove because the dowel was stuck in place. It took my neighbor and I a good hour to hour and a half to ever-so-slowly wiggle that thing off. Once it came off putting it back together was straightforward and uneventful. So far, so good on the starts. I'll have to run it through a few of the hot start - sit for 30 mins - then start scenarios, but initial results are good. Thanks for all of the help on this one!
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09-22-2019, 09:57 PM | #26 |
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Just in case the issue is not resolved, then it's 99% the ignition switch. For some reason BMW decided to run the solenoid coil current right through the ignition switch (and not a starter relay) so the high current and arcing wears the contacts out over time.
You can take apart the switch and the contact attached to pin 8 will probably be heavily oxidized/worn (lots of DIY on this, common on E46 and similar era BMW). It can be cleaned with a very small file but probably won't last as long as a new switch. I'm looking into placing diode across the solenoid coil which will suppress the arcing and make the ignition switch contact last much much longer. |
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09-23-2019, 09:24 AM | #27 | |
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