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      08-01-2018, 07:08 AM   #67
Michael9218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANILE8 View Post
Humm, I always thought our cars come stock with the ZF GS6-37BZ, not a Getrag. What made you stay with a synchro box?

I am thinking of changing the stock H pattern 6-spd to a sequential dogbox with straight cut gears from Samsonas or Hollinger RD6.

H pattern synchro boxes are so slow; after you have driven a sequential you can never go back.
I've been considering a sequential transmission. I've been in discussion with Drenth. I still haven't gotten clarification on now to integrate to the ecu to allow for throttle interupt for flat shifting.

Part of me wants it, the other part of me likes the skill of shifting an H pattern.
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      08-01-2018, 07:14 AM   #68
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Subscribed! Incredible build.

How are you liking the SLR front control arms? I am thinking of picking up a set.
I'm liking them! Unfortunately I can't give a side by side type comparison, but as I'm getting the chassis dialed in they seem to be providing lots of grip.

I did have a tie rod heim joint develop play after only 5 track days. Could have been a fluke. SLR was quick to send a replacement. I went ahead and bought higher quality Aurora heim joints at my expense.

I also had some of the hardware loosen. So check it frequently. I ended up double nutting everything and used marker paint. Everything seems to be staying tight now.
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      09-15-2018, 01:03 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
I've been considering a sequential transmission. I've been in discussion with Drenth. I still haven't gotten clarification on now to integrate to the ecu to allow for throttle interupt for flat shifting.

Part of me wants it, the other part of me likes the skill of shifting an H pattern.
I would look upon it as a two-part project if you want to go to that extreme. Yes, you need a piggyback ECU's for flatshifting, but that is a whole different project within itself. Just installing a sequential dogbox will add significantly to the acceleration times and general reduction in laptimes.

Just a quick lift of the throttle to unload the dogs then slam her into the next gear, only takes a fraction of the time it does in a sqncro H pattern box especially the dreaded 1-2 shift at 6k+ rpm. The syncro's just plain cannot keep up.

I am entertaining the idea of dropping in a T56 magnum because you can easily get gearsets for them and PPG makes a helical gear option so street driving would be more pleasant.
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      10-08-2018, 09:36 PM   #70
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Any chance you still have the right side headlight assembly? I'm in need of one.
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      10-09-2018, 12:34 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Osterkraut View Post
Any chance you still have the right side headlight assembly? I'm in need of one.
I do, but I'm hanging onto them in case I ever want to run the car at night. Unlikely, but you never know...
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      10-09-2018, 07:39 PM   #72
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I do, but I'm hanging onto them in case I ever want to run the car at night. Unlikely, but you never know...
Well have I got a deal for you!

You can get my totally useful but self-leveling totally seized unit, plus some cash!

Let me know if that's appealin'...
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      11-20-2018, 08:10 PM   #73
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Track pics

Ran the car at Barber Motorsports Park the other weekend. Photographer got some awesome shots. Barber is a beautiful track!









Car ran great. Turned a 1:39. Unfortunately, the driveshaft center bearing carrier let go ending my weekend early afternoon on Sunday.
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      11-20-2018, 08:23 PM   #74
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Michael9218
SO great to see the pics, and to know all the time, energy, emotion and money has been fulfilled. Barber appears to be a very awesome track, with elevation change, sweepers, off-camber, etc.

Your car looks simply incredible.
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      11-21-2018, 12:10 AM   #75
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Great shots!!!
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      11-21-2018, 05:26 AM   #76
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I have to get back over there in the Spring. The car is looking good!
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      11-21-2018, 10:05 AM   #77
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Driveshaft

Pic of the failed driveshaft center bearing carrier. The driveshaft was a tad too long when I got it back from the driveshaft shop. Lesson learned. I gave them an amount to take off, but didn't take a final measurement. It fit, but was tight. This apparently put too much stress on the rubber webbing that floats the driveshaft. 2,000 track miles and it let go. I guess I need to get it resized. If I'm going to do that, I might as well take off more...

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      11-21-2018, 10:16 AM   #78
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Oil cooler

Decided to do a little more to the car over the winter.
First up is relocating the oil cooler. Stacking it in front of the radiator worked ok, but while oil temps were very good all summer at around 250, water was higher than I liked at 200-205. The oil cooler was blocking 22% of the radiator surface area. Essentially blowing hot air into the radiator behind.

So I moved it to the side so it will get dedicated airflow on the passenger side behind the stock brake duct hole. This should greatly improve water temps and also make it easier to tape over the oil inlet when it's cold.



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      11-21-2018, 10:18 AM   #79
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Mystery part

So an odd part showed up today...hmmm, what to do with this?...



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      11-21-2018, 12:17 PM   #80
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WAG: dry sump?
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      11-22-2018, 11:55 AM   #81
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Yeah, what he said....

Quote:
Originally Posted by wdb View Post
WAG: dry sump?
Isn't the S54 OEM a "semi-dry sump" system?

Are you converting to a full blown dry-sump?
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      11-23-2018, 05:37 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
Pic of the failed driveshaft center bearing carrier. The driveshaft was a tad too long when I got it back from the driveshaft shop. Lesson learned. I gave them an amount to take off, but didn't take a final measurement. It fit, but was tight. This apparently put too much stress on the rubber webbing that floats the driveshaft. 2,000 track miles and it let go. I guess I need to get it resized. If I'm going to do that, I might as well take off more...

Have you asked them about building a carbon fiber Driveshaft?
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      11-23-2018, 05:59 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
Pic of the failed driveshaft center bearing carrier. The driveshaft was a tad too long when I got it back from the driveshaft shop. Lesson learned. I gave them an amount to take off, but didn't take a final measurement. It fit, but was tight. This apparently put too much stress on the rubber webbing that floats the driveshaft.
So how did you notice that the driveshaft was too long? (when you say it was a tight fit).
Normally the drive shaft is 2 piece with a splined section that can vary the lengt a bit.
Was the splined section completely retracted (pushed in) when you fit it to the car?
And did you notice vibrations while driving?
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      11-23-2018, 06:25 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
So how did you notice that the driveshaft was too long? (when you say it was a tight fit).
Normally the drive shaft is 2 piece with a splined section that can vary the lengt a bit.
Was the splined section completely retracted (pushed in) when you fit it to the car?
And did you notice vibrations while driving?
With everything retracted, it was a snug fit. I figured the flex disk would absorb some of it, but it appears the pressure was on the center bearing carrier since it was the front half that was long. The rear half wasn't modified.

When it finally went the vibration was very violent accompanied by banging at certain speeds. I thought I had a rear tire separate. That's what it felt like.
Until then, no sign of issue.
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      11-23-2018, 06:31 PM   #85
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I think that if its still a snug fit with everything retracted, the propshaft is forced to sit in an angle. And when rotating, that gives a lot of movement & stress on the thin rubber membrane surrounding the centerbearing.
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      11-25-2018, 02:53 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Cast View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
Pic of the failed driveshaft center bearing carrier. The driveshaft was a tad too long when I got it back from the driveshaft shop. Lesson learned. I gave them an amount to take off, but didn't take a final measurement. It fit, but was tight. This apparently put too much stress on the rubber webbing that floats the driveshaft. 2,000 track miles and it let go. I guess I need to get it resized. If I'm going to do that, I might as well take off more...

Have you asked them about building a carbon fiber Driveshaft?
This.

Also. The slr front control arms.
Don't they give more steering angle?
Isn't it meant for drift cars?

Also share your thoughts on the lexan.
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      11-26-2018, 07:10 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Cast View Post
Have you asked them about building a carbon fiber Driveshaft?
I doubt they offer such a thing. It' an old school grease and steel driveshaft shop. Do you know of such a place locally?
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      11-26-2018, 07:21 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AriuSen View Post

Also. The slr front control arms.
Don't they give more steering angle?
Isn't it meant for drift cars?

Also share your thoughts on the lexan.
The SLR controls do have their origins in the drift community. They make a race kit as well. They do increase the steering angle by moving the tie rod in toward the center of the hub/knuckle. This increases the steering. This concerned me due to the fact that the E86 already has a fast steering rack, but it feels great on track. Definitely not too fast.

P4P rear window is good. Excellent fit. I secured it with Tinnerman washers and RTV sealant. At speed you do see a little wobble in your rearview mirror. So far it hasn't blown out. Saves something like 11 pounds. It will scratch easily, so you need to take care with it. I wouldn't recommend it for a car that sees street use.

I plan to replace the quarter windows with CF blanks when I install my GSR roof this winter.
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