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      03-12-2016, 02:22 AM   #23
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      03-15-2016, 06:14 PM   #24
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      03-16-2016, 09:23 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Put a couple of hours on the BW mounts to work and back today.
The "boom in the trunk" effect at idle goes away once the engine's up to temp.
Only slightly more vibe than the VTs at idle, no really noticeable vibe off idle, and definitely a little more sound of all the whirly bits in the 3000-3500 rpm range.
You know, that S54 trademark sound of the rocker arms, the timing chain, and the Vanos.
Love that sound!

BimmerWorld FTW!!
Thanks for all of the information.

I still question if these or the Vibra Technics are better for me. I plan to soon not have the primary cats and also only drive my car about 3k miles per year (way less than Stickmon). With you driving 44k miles, good chance I will drive my car this far at all or if I do it will take 15 years. After the cats are gone I will do the motor mounts.

How would you compare these to stock? Vibra add X% more vibration than stock and then these add how much more over stock and Vibra? Is there a performance benefit to these over the Vibra?

I realize any aftermarket is normally going to add vibration and I am ok with some but if the performance benefit is slight for each step up and there is a lot of vibration then I am not interested. Probably also difficult to tell someone in writing the differences when it would be to see/feel it in person.
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      03-16-2016, 10:08 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David70 View Post
Thanks for all of the information.

I still question if these or the Vibra Technics are better for me. I plan to soon not have the primary cats and also only drive my car about 3k miles per year (way less than Stickmon). With you driving 44k miles, good chance I will drive my car this far at all or if I do it will take 15 years. After the cats are gone I will do the motor mounts.

How would you compare these to stock? Vibra add X% more vibration than stock and then these add how much more over stock and Vibra? Is there a performance benefit to these over the Vibra?

I realize any aftermarket is normally going to add vibration and I am ok with some but if the performance benefit is slight for each step up and there is a lot of vibration then I am not interested. Probably also difficult to tell someone in writing the differences when it would be to see/feel it in person.
If you haven't already, check out the VT thread from when we installed these.
I didn't notice much if ant added NVH from the VT mounts.

FWIW, if I had to replace my mounts at some point, I would get VTs again.
Mainly because I know them, love them.

Not knocking the BW mounts, they also sound very good.
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      03-16-2016, 11:39 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
If you haven't already, check out the VT thread from when we installed these.
I didn't notice much if ant added NVH from the VT mounts.

FWIW, if I had to replace my mounts at some point, I would get VTs again.
Mainly because I know them, love them.

Not knocking the BW mounts, they also sound very good.
+1 mine have been excellent and ill happily send em to be rebuilt when the time comes.
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      03-16-2016, 12:27 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David70 View Post
Thanks for all of the information.

I still question if these or the Vibra Technics are better for me. I plan to soon not have the primary cats and also only drive my car about 3k miles per year (way less than Stickmon). With you driving 44k miles, good chance I will drive my car this far at all or if I do it will take 15 years. After the cats are gone I will do the motor mounts.

How would you compare these to stock? Vibra add X% more vibration than stock and then these add how much more over stock and Vibra? Is there a performance benefit to these over the Vibra?

I realize any aftermarket is normally going to add vibration and I am ok with some but if the performance benefit is slight for each step up and there is a lot of vibration then I am not interested. Probably also difficult to tell someone in writing the differences when it would be to see/feel it in person.
I think for you, I would recommend the VT mounts. The increase in vibe is almost undetectable, and you're unlikely to smoke them, like I did.
Not only did I put 44k miles on them, this from today's headlines:
STUDY: LA Tops List Of Worst Traffic...

You may not like the nhv of the BW mounts, particularly when cold.
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      01-17-2017, 09:39 AM   #29
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VT mounts available ?

I did my first AutoX last weekend. Best $39 I ever spent. The best learning experience I've ever had as far as driving a car to its limits. Got to talk to some other Z4M owners ( or past owners ) I know that at near 3200 # no matter how good I can become at this as a driver, this car is not a great AutoX machine, but I now realize that I would like to have my suspension at its best.
Now having 56,000 miles I feel that the only performance modifications I'm interested in having in the near future would be to the suspension. I have read all that there is to read on the VT engine mounts. I went to the website and they have no listing for the Z4M. I sent an email inquiring about this and have not heard back from them.
i have also gone to the websites of Bimmer World, AKG, and Black Forest. Does anyone have the exact model number that I need for my 554. motor from VT ?

I have also looked into some initial research for the RE transmission mounts, rear/ front subframe, bushing sets, Rtab, Fcab ( not sure what these stand for ), 10.9 Motorsport Bolts, sway bars, clutch stop, strut brace, ARB mounts and rear camber bolts. As well as the obvious struts and shocks. I'm not sure I'm prepared to go with coil overs, if I'm serious about making this car handle as well as it possibly can they would be the way to go. However I'm not sure what exactly is the best brand for an adjustable coilover.

Can anyone give me a listing with name brand and perhaps part numbers for any of these items and any other advice that would help me in making this car perform as well as can be achieved.
My car at the time is bone stock, I just had it completely gone over at my local indy they tell me that everything is completely original with the car.

Side note, my brand new set of Bridgestone RE 71's were amazing on the course

Thank you very much, JJ

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      01-17-2017, 06:30 PM   #30
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Pretty sure this is them.

http://www.vibra-technics.com/bmw/z4_e85_e86_02_08
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      01-17-2017, 06:44 PM   #31
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different engine sizes

So all years of z4's, which have different engine sizes ALL use the SAME mount ? Seems strange. Had great correspondence with Lisa at AKG on their Motor mounts MTS36MM says ALL Z4's and tranny mounts TMU3036. Anyone have any input on how these stack up compared to VT or OEM ?
I did notice on the tranny mounts, a 1 mm enlargement must be made to accommodate larger than stock bolts. What type of thickness is the metal where the bolt hole is ? I'm wondering if this is easy to drill ?

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      01-18-2017, 03:58 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
My original stock right side cracked also, but after 7.5 years and 88k miles.
The VT only lasted 2.5 years and 44k miles.
If the stock engine mount lasted so long and double the miles of the VT mounts, why should somebody buy the VT mounts and pay the double price?
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      01-18-2017, 04:36 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FD3S View Post
why should somebody buy the VT mounts and pay the double price?
The VT mounts (or any stiffer mounts) reduce the pendulum effect of the mass of the engine which gives the car a more stable platform.
You can feel this on something like a roundabout or chicane, when exiting you can feel the engine moving out of phase with the chassis. A stiffer mount reduces that.
Thats the only difference I noticed. The trade off is extra NVH.
Some people say there isnt any with the VT mounts but I can sense it very clearly. Not a real issue on a sporty car like a z4, and I only notice it at idle, but maybe not so suitable of the type of car like say a 5 series.
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      01-20-2017, 04:13 PM   #34
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Have the bimmerworld mounts, and the nvh is extremely noticeable, however I prefer the less refined feel
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      02-23-2017, 09:33 AM   #35
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I'm going to have my local indie do the CDV, CPV, engine and tranny mounts all at once. I'm pretty set on RE for the tranny mount for $ 60. BUT I'm sorta confused at all the options for something as simple as a motor mount. Here's my summation starting with most expensive and highlights as stated in info, some of which gets very detailed like Rogue Engineering/Turner and others have almost no detail at all.

Turnermotorsport- Factory BMW 11812224413nKT "N" group - $800 solidrubber/30%+stf

Rouge Engineering - $380 Iso mounting plates/antirotational tabs/NOT bolt thru

Turnermotorsport-Factory BMW 11812224413N "N" group - $347 solid rubber/30%+stiff

Vibra Technics- $ 325 Seem like many of you like and use

Bavarian - Factory BMW $ 236

Pelican Parts - UUC Motorwerks Racing Urethane $ 215

Bimmer World - $200 solid design

AKG - MTS36MM - $150 US Military Spec 75 D polyurethane/bolt through

All the rest are around $ 130 Including - Hamburg Technic/Cortecc/Lamfoeder, then on Ebay you can find them for around $ 60 as set, with no name or info

Can anyone please help with some knowledge ( like is bolt through a good thing or a bad thing ? ) Rubber VS Urethane VS Polyurethane ?

I'm OK with spending to get better performance, but this is a huge range in price, for a " basic " component.

My needs are for spirited weekend driving, occasional AutoX, perhaps HPDE in the next year, but basically I want the drivetrain nice and solid/smooth, 1-2 shift repeatable/dependable, no flexing, all the power to the ground, I'm OK with a reasonable amount of NVH when cold/<1,000 RPM
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      03-04-2017, 09:43 PM   #36
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Received my ROAD Vibra Technic motor mounts, Rouge Engineering Tranny mounts and scored 10.9 hardness bolts for the motor mount brackets from Tri City Bolt & Screw for super cheap $ ! Ordered 8 new suspension plate bolts from Bert Smith BMW St Pete.

Can anyone share this : What are the dimensions of the suspension plate bolts ? ? M, ? MM Length, ? pitch on the threads ? I need this info TODAY, as I am going to go back to Tri City and get those 8 bolts ( in the 10.9 hardness, not the 8.8 that is OEM ) and not pay the Stealership price of $ 3.75 per ( discounted from $ 6.75 per. PLEASE HELP !
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      03-05-2017, 03:40 AM   #37
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What do you mean with 'suspension plate bolts'?
Do you have a part number or link to the corresponding realoem diagram?

You cant just replace any bolt with another bolt. Some bolts on the chassis are stretch bolts.
In theory you also have to make sure that they have the same surface coating, because the surface coating has an influence on the required torque. Different surface coatings have different friction coefficients.
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      03-05-2017, 08:29 AM   #38
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The large plate on bottom of motor. In preparing to get my new constant pressure valve seal replaced I came across info on the 8 bolts that hold it in. Yes they are tightened to a particular torque, then turned an additional 90* and MOST people will say, they are NOT reusable. I'm not reusing them and shop owner confirmed this. I thought that using a 10.9 hardness rated bolt ( instead of OEM 8.8 ), would only make this better/stronger. This info is discussed when researching replacement of mounting bracket bolts being a known weak point of the motor mount issues. I purchased the mounting bracket bolts from Tri City, because I had all the dimensions. Maybe I should just stay with the OEM on the plate, just figured if I'm doing this, go with the best/strongest.
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      03-05-2017, 09:47 AM   #39
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+1 to what GuidoK mentions.

Those 8 bolts are stretch bolts with special washers on them designed to work with the aluminum plate.
IMO you should stick with OE in this case.
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      03-05-2017, 09:54 AM   #40
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Parts Dept looking at schematic while ordering told me no washers were indicated for suspension plate. GGGGgggrrr
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      03-05-2017, 11:28 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJZ4MR View Post
The large plate on bottom of motor.
Those bolts are already 10.9 I think?!?
Have you had them physically in your hands? I think it is stamped on the hex head. (both the 10.9 grade and probably something like ZNF (zinc plated (ZN), fine thread (F))
And indeed they should have an integrated washer, otherwise the aluminium plate will be damaged.
And that washer probably has a little crosshair on the reinforcement plate side to ensure that on that side is more friction so that while torquing the movement takes place between washer and bolt head.
Might be difficult to find all that in an aftermarket bolt

I usually reuse these bolts (I've had that plate on&off so many times...), but you can see that over time, the threads on the hex side will start to stretch a bit, so you cant reuse them indefinately (and shows that they are indeed stretch bolts and no ordinary bolts). Maybe I'll change them in the near future.
I also dont torque them to the full 90deg, more like 60, because they are used.


Upgrading bolts doesnt have a real meaning if you're not going to apply more torque though, unless there is a design flaw which causes the bolts to break. But that usually doesnt happen with axial forces but with lateral forces.
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      03-05-2017, 12:46 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Parts Dept looking at schematic while ordering told me no washers were indicated for suspension plate. GGGGgggrrr
That's correct.
The washers are integral with the bolts.

And as above I don't replace them every time.
I replace after 3-4 times.
I just put new ones in this week.
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      03-05-2017, 01:34 PM   #43
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OK, thanks for the clarification. There is a SIB from 2006 that changed the 8.8 bolts to 10.9 bolts for the mount brackets. Guess I just got on a track of why use less strong when a stronger bolt is available. I completely understand now. I will pick up my 8 8.8 bolts on Tues. Get all my parts to my indie. Wish I had an easy way to get my car up off the ground, or I'd be tackling at least the CDV and CPV myself. My Vibra Technics look so nice and the Rouge Engineering Tranny mounts seem solid and of a better design than OEM, can't wait to see how all of this effects the car. Really appreciate your input.
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      03-24-2017, 07:49 PM   #44
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So finally got all the mounts/bolts/seal done. PLUS the dreaded CDV ! All I can say is WOW ! Combined with the previously done Clutch Stop, it's like night and day with the feel of the shift from 1st to 2nd. Picked up car, from local indy, which I can walk to in 10 minutes. Drove below 4K to let her warm up for a bit. Then came up to a stop sign, right turn onto a 40mph main road. Slipped her into 1st like warm butter, gave her a healthy dose of gas while letting off the Clutch Stop real quick, tapped the CS, slipped into second....no hesitation, no jerkiness, NO DELAY ! Just was like a clutch is SUPPOSED to feel ! Felt a lot less pressure on the clutch. I detected NO NVH. As you can see in the pic, my right side original 56K mile/06 OEM MM were very different coming out. The OEM tranny mounts were slightly different from each other as well, though the pic doesn't pick it up so well. They were warped to one side though. One was slightly taller than the other. So happy to have my drive line tight. Plus the CDV has been bothering me since I first learned of it being in the car, which was about a week after I bought it, less than 4 months ago. Also, I should have proper pressure to the upper cylinder/vanos, now that I have a 400* CPV seal in. Mine of course was leaking. Now what to do about tranny/diff fluid change. So much conflicting/confusing info out there. Any opinions from someone that's been there, done that over time would be appreciated, my Blackstone 8 sample bottles came this week. I'm doing oil/tranny/diff analysis. Me and this car are in for the long haul. Love this car !
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