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10-25-2018, 08:35 AM | #1 |
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New z4 owner with a top question..
Hello all. I just bought a "fixer upper" 2005 Z4 2.5i with 103,00 miles. The top motor isn't working, and the previous owner just left it closed/up.
I plan to fix the motor,but in the mean time I tried to put the top down manually. I "released" the red cable, and unlatched the top by the switch. When I tried to push the top back, it only went about halfway and really didn't want to go any further. I didn't push too hard, so as not to break/bend anything. When I went to close it again, it was incredibly!! hard to close it the final inch or so, to engage the latches. (a very tight top). Is there something I need to be doing, to get the top open all the way? |
10-25-2018, 08:57 AM | #2 |
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In the DIY section, there is relocate the motor to trunk. I'm in the same boat. The red cable, you pulled on it ? to release ? mine didn't have much give. I forgot if there is something else causing it to be tight, might be insufficient fluid maybe ?
Also start shoppinig for the motor prices, i think the price doubled, new hovering around ~650. Even my bmw dealer tech friend can't get me a discount
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10-25-2018, 11:17 AM | #3 | |
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Drives: '11 E92 328i LCI & '06 Z4MR
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Mmm I haven't seen that price in a long time. Recently (and I mean earlier this week), I've seen a few OEM top motors go for $300-$400 on some sites, that's including shipping.
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10-25-2018, 12:03 PM | #4 |
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The red cable appears to already be pulled out. (it doesn't retract, when I turn it, etc though).
I'll move my new (or possibly repaired) pump to the trunk. |
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10-25-2018, 08:50 PM | #5 |
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Your emergency bi-pass on the pump (your red handle Bowden cable attaches to this) has also failed.
I was in the same exact boat, both my motor/pump and emergency cable failed at the same time. However, thank god it failed (as did yours) "top up", whereas, if failed top down, your totally screwed. I'd tell you to take it to the dealership but, honestly the repair cost if other top related issues are found may actually exceed the value of your car. My advise would be to use the European thru the trunk method. Actually this is the method I used only because I couldn't move the top(well, I didn't really have any other choice other than cutting my hydo lines). I didn't enjoy the time I spent in my trunk doing this. I did it over a three day span but, only actually spent a total of 3 hours doing it. Finally, I did it when I was 64 years old and, well perhaps a little over weight. Rather than re-invent the wheel on this method here is the UK website I visited and found instruction on the thru the trunk motor removal https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewforum...fc5f309c2b985a Just post on the aforementioned forum saying your motor went out and your Bowden release has failed and ask for a link to one of the threads on pulling the top motor thru the trunk. |
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10-26-2018, 01:29 PM | #6 | |
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I like to save some $$ if I can get that motor for cheaper
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10-27-2018, 09:03 AM | #7 |
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If your relocating the motor to the trunk, attempt to bring your old motor back from the dead. In the UK & Germany they do this. After pulling the motor, they separate the motor from the pump. They allegedly soak the motor in diesel oil (this is what I've read) overnight and then clean it up with WD-40. They then use an electric drill and put the metal rod going from the motor into the jaws of the drill. They then spin the drill (and the motor rod in one direction and then in the other direction of few times. They put the motor & pump back together and try it out using a 12 Vt battery.
They claim to have great success in bring these back to life. I wouldn't use this if your reinstalling to the original location. I'd only use this if your placing the motor in the trunk. In that, if the "renewed" original pump fails in a year, it's no big deal to change it out if it's in the trunk. For specific instructions on attempting to renew the motor post to the UK forum. Honestly, what have you got to lose, it wouldn't really cost you anything and you just might end up saving a lot of $$$. The real trick in all of this is relocating the motor to the trunk where it can be worked on or if need changed out. |
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10-27-2018, 09:39 PM | #8 |
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It's pretty common that the corrosion that kills the motor also freezes up the hydraulic release. There is some small leakage back through the pump so even without it released, the top will move. You have to put moderate pressure on it and just be patient while the fluid moves through the pump. It's not practical for everyday putting the top up and down, but for emergencies it does work.
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