Quickjack

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by Gamb1t

That might be for the SLX3500.

Originally Posted by pungo

No, the $999 price was for the 5000SLX before the increase with the bundle.

I bought the QJ 5000SLX a couple of years ago for the same price before they had "bundles".

[Patrick Gent]

I have been thinking about it, but not sure if a grand (or more now) is worth avoiding the hassle of my two-2x6 ramp to get the jack under. Most annoying thing for me is lining up the jacks stands with the rubber cup jack point--I use a couple of adapters made from some type of rubber/plastic that were way cheaper than the aluminum ones.

With Quick Jack, do you need to somehow align it with the jack points or does it just lift with a flat surface under the car?

[Piper1]

Originally Posted by Patrick Gent

I have been thinking about it, but not sure if a grand (or more now) is worth avoiding the hassle of my two-2x6 ramp to get the jack under. Most annoying thing for me is lining up the jacks stands with the rubber cup jack point--I use a couple of adapters made from some type of rubber/plastic that were way cheaper than the aluminum ones.

With Quick Jack, do you need to somehow align it with the jack points or does it just lift with a flat surface under the car?

There are rubber blocks that sit in the rails that you align with the jack points on the car. Check their website out they show the blocks. There's a pic on my profile but you can't make the blocks out in the pic, there's few pics on 1st page of this thread that you can make the blocks out. Only regret I have is not getting one sooner.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by Piper1

There are rubber blocks that sit in the rails that you align with the jack points on the car. Check their website out they show the blocks. There's a pic on my profile but you can't make the blocks out in the pic, there's few pics on 1st page of this thread that you can make the blocks out. Only regret I have is not getting one sooner.

I do it the same way. I wanted to add that the rubber blocks have not deformed or broken any of the jackpads on my three BMWs and I'm still able to use the jack pad adapters and a floor jack when I'm at the track.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Patrick Gent

I have been thinking about it, but not sure if a grand (or more now) is worth avoiding the hassle of my two-2x6 ramp to get the jack under. Most annoying thing for me is lining up the jacks stands with the rubber cup jack point--I use a couple of adapters made from some type of rubber/plastic that were way cheaper than the aluminum ones.

With Quick Jack, do you need to somehow align it with the jack points or does it just lift with a flat surface under the car?

Sure if your time is not that valuable, then taking the extra time to use ramps, jockey around jacks and jack stands to lift and set vehicle back down, the you'll save the $1000+. For me, the QJ was well worth the cost since it saves me valuable time.



Large rubber block are included that are easily lined up with the factory lift points under the rockers.



The only downside is that both sides are blocked from creeper access, so you need to come in from the front or the back, not a big deal since little work is done toward the center of the vehicle.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by SD ///M4

I do it the same way. I wanted to add that the rubber blocks have not deformed or broken any of the jackpads on my three BMWs and I'm still able to use the jack pad adapters and a floor jack when I'm at the track.

The QuickJack looks like it needs some type of block since the top rail is really a tray and the bottom of the tray wouldn't reach the lifting lock on the E85/86 chassis. But the lifting blocks are not fragile and don't require a rubber adapter between the lifting mechanism to prevent damage. I have a Rotary 2-post automotive lift that has cast iron feet at the end of the lift arms. I've had the lift longer than than the 14 years I've owned my E90. The steel lift feet have never damaged any of the lifting blocs on any of the four BMWs I own.

The plastic lifting blocks get damaged because owners use the wrong lifting tools on them, or use the lifting tool improperly on the blocks.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by pungo

Sure if your time is not that valuable, then taking the extra time to use ramps, jockey around jacks and jack stands to lift and set vehicle back down, the you'll save the $1000+. For me, the QJ was well worth the cost since it saves me valuable time.



Large rubber block are included that are easily lined up with the factory lift points under the rockers.



The only downside is that both sides are blocked from creeper access, so you need to come in from the front or the back, not a big deal since little work is done toward the center of the vehicle.

I'd spend the extra $1,400 and buy a MaxJack instead. Just my 2 cents.

[Piper1]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'd spend the extra $1,400 and buy a MaxJack instead. Just my 2 cents.

The quick jack is really for those that don't have the overhead height for a 2/4 post lift, or that want something they can take with them to the track, or where ever for that matter. If you do want extra lift from what the normal blocks on the quick jack offer (I can only get the small block under with the car on the ground) Then simply put all 4 tires on ramps first then use the suv adapters for the quick jack to get the extra height you may want that the blocks don't offer. Under the quick jack instructions they even say you can stack the small and large blocks on top of each other, but the suv adapters give you more height than the double stack of blocks.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Piper1

The quick jack is really for those that don't have the overhead height for a 2/4 post lift, or that want something they can take with them to the track, or where ever for that matter. If you do want extra lift from what the normal blocks on the quick jack offer (I can only get the small block under with the car on the ground) Then simply put all 4 tires on ramps first then use the suv adapters for the quick jack to get the extra height you may want that the blocks don't offer. Under the quick jack instructions they even say you can stack the small and large blocks on top of each other, but the suv adapters give you more height than the double stack of blocks.

Agreed about the garage height issue, but that is what the MaxJack is designed for as well, 8 foot ceiling heights. Bend Pack and other lift companies also make low-rise lifts for 8' ceiling heights. Regular lifts require 12 foot ceilings. 10,000 pound lifts require minimum 4" of 3,500 PSI concrete, where as the Max Jack is limited to 6,000 pounds. IMO the extra height the MaxJack provides is worth the extra money. The MaxJack seems no less difficult to store and set up than the QuickJack.

[Piper1]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Agreed about the garage height issue, but that is what the MaxJack is designed for as well, 8 foot ceiling heights. Bend Pack and other lift companies also make low-rise lifts for 8' ceiling heights. Regular lifts require 12 foot ceilings. 10,000 pound lifts require minimum 4" of 3,500 PSI concrete, where as the Max Jack is limited to 6,000 pounds. IMO the extra height the MaxJack provides is worth the extra money. The MaxJack seems no less difficult to store and set up than the QuickJack.

For me my issue also was about garage door opener clearance. I haven't used the SUV adapters on me z yet but with them added to the measurements, top up I'm 3 1/4" from hitting the opener, and we also have a tj jeep that also gets touchy on clearance so for the versatility of moving it where ever I need it was a big bonus.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'd spend the extra $1,400 and buy a MaxJack instead. Just my 2 cents.

Not everyone wants a permanently mounted lift in their garage, I know I don't, that's why I got the quickjack and I even have plenty of height for a real lift. For the few times a year I need to use it, I prefer the open garage space with the quickjack hanging on the wall not taking up much space when not in use. This provides more options for parking vehicles in different configurations in my garage. Sure if I had a vehicle on a lift a few times a month or a dedicated service bay, a real lift is the way to go, but for occasional use, the quickjack work best for me. I even brought it with me when I went to purchase a vehicle from a private seller. Everyone has different needs.

[David70]

Once my 2nd garage is complete I will also go with the Quickjack, compared to the regular lift it's half the price, it hangs on the wall when I am not using it, not somewhere on the floor taking up space, requirements on concrete are lower, and especially with my 8' ceilings with the garage door open the amount of lift on the regular jack isn't enough to be a big benefit, still likely need to be on a short chair to get under it. If I had much higher ceilings, more space overall, or I was doing a lot more work on cars I might feel differently.

[pungo]

Another home depot "today only sale" on QJ and other automotive equipment.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'd spend the extra $1,400 and buy a MaxJack instead. Just my 2 cents.

Depends on how your garage is designed. I have two bedrooms above my 3-car garage and a major support beam that runs across the width of my garage that is only about six feet above the garage floor. I can't put in any type of lift because I don't have the height. Different answers for different needs. The QuickJack meets my needs without having to spend another $1,400.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by Piper1

For me my issue also was about garage door opener clearance. I haven't used the SUV adapters on me z yet but with them added to the measurements, top up I'm 3 1/4" from hitting the opener, and we also have a tj jeep that also gets touchy on clearance so for the versatility of moving it where ever I need it was a big bonus.

If you have a rollup garage door, Liftmaster makes a wall-mounted GDO that mounts on the wall and connects to the jackshaft that the springs are mounted to. It completely frees up all of the space that is taken up by traditional ceiling mounted GDOs.

A couple of years ago, after replacing the plastic motor/shaft coupler every few years on the ancient Genie GDO on my single garage door and having the 25+ year old Chamberlain GDO on my double garage door start acting up for the second time, I replaced both of them with two Liftmaster 8500 GDOs. Fairly easy DIY installation although I did have to run some electrical conduit to get outlets to the upper front corners of the garage where the GDOs are mounted.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by pungo

(note the tool creeper, it's really useful to keep your tools with you)

Attachment 2345499

After looking through this thread again, and seeing your tool creeper again, I wanted to share my solution. I had a total knee replacement of my right knee about 3.5 years ago, my "good" knee isn't so good anymore, and I have a bad back. A few years ago I bought this adjustable padded seat with a low back support which also has a rotating tool tray underneath to make it easier to swap the brakes when I get our cars ready for a track weekend. I also use it when washing the cars for pretty much everything below the window line. It holds all the tools I need for swapping brakes on the M3 and the M4 and it holds everything I need to detail the wheels and tires when washing the cars. It's definitely pricier than your solution, but it's primary purpose to me is to support my back and relieve knee strain. And it works great for both back support and a tool creeper! I had one of those cheap Harbor Freight rolling stools with the tiny metal wheels and have actually fallen off it when the wheels hit a small gravel rock in the garage or on the driveway. This one is way better!

Traxion 2-700 ProGear Mobile Rolling Gear Seat W/Equipment Tray and All-Terrain 5" Casters:

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by pungo

Not everyone wants a permanently mounted lift in their garage, I know I don't, that's why I got the quickjack and I even have plenty of height for a real lift. For the few times a year I need to use it, I prefer the open garage space with the quickjack hanging on the wall not taking up much space when not in use. This provides more options for parking vehicles in different configurations in my garage. Sure if I had a vehicle on a lift a few times a month or a dedicated service bay, a real lift is the way to go, but for occasional use, the quickjack work best for me. I even brought it with me when I went to purchase a vehicle from a private seller. Everyone has different needs.

Go look at a MaxJack, it's a portable unit that lifts a car 48".

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Go look at a MaxJack, it's a portable unit that lifts a car 48".

Ok, I looked it initially, it's actually called a MaxJax not MaxJack and although portable-ish, it still requires anchoring to the floor with 10 bolts. So bolting and unbolting it to the floor for each use is a bit more work then the quickjack where you just wheel them into place. You also need to factor in the cost of a sit down creeper to effectively use it. Unless I install floor anchoring, in each of my 3 garage bays, I'd need to jockey vehicles around to use the one bay that has the anchors, whereas with the QJ, I just wheel it to the bay with the vehicle I'm servicing and I'm ready to lift.


The MaxJax looks like a good product for the right situation. But at one and a half times the cost of my QJ, the extra hassle of bolting and unbolting it for each use, the much larger storage footprint and unsure if my floor was poured properly to support the pinpoint weight, it wouldn't work well for mine or all circumstances. If I spend that kind of money, I'd just get a real lift I could stand under

[86Zed]

This thread is about the Quickjack; a robust, portable solution largely competing against four jack stands and a conventional jack. Capable of moving garage bays or taking a ride in your car to a parking lot or friends house.

$2,500 is far more than most can justify for hobby wrenching. The MaxJax is competing against a four-post lift and offering portability INSIDE your garage only - a 300lb arm is not something I can toss in my truck/van.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by SD ///M4

After looking through this thread again, and seeing your tool creeper again, I wanted to share my solution. I had a total knee replacement of my right knee about 3.5 years ago, my "good" knee isn't so good anymore, and I have a bad back. A few years ago I bought this adjustable padded seat with a low back support which also has a rotating tool tray underneath to make it easier to swap the brakes when I get our cars ready for a track weekend. I also use it when washing the cars for pretty much everything below the window line. It holds all the tools I need for swapping brakes on the M3 and the M4 and it holds everything I need to detail the wheels and tires when washing the cars. It's definitely pricier than your solution, but it's primary purpose to me is to support my back and relieve knee strain. And it works great for both back support and a tool creeper! I had one of those cheap Harbor Freight rolling stools with the tiny metal wheels and have actually fallen off it when the wheels hit a small gravel rock in the garage or on the driveway. This one is way better!

Traxion 2-700 ProGear Mobile Rolling Gear Seat W/Equipment Tray and All-Terrain 5" Casters:

That's a nice looking stool, I might have to get one of those. Sure it's expensive, but so is my body to repair
I too have one of those cheap Harbor Freight stools and the weld broke where the height adjustment pipe attaches to the bottom of the seat. I welded it back on but yeah, the wheels are small so anything you hit stops it in its tracks. I also use it for washing my vehicles and brake work, it has saved my knees unneeded strain

[Gamb1t]

In my mind Maxjax is a non-starter. The price puts it at near a 2-post lift. As a poster noted, you still need to drill holes to anchor it. At that point, if height is not an issue, you are better if in getting a 2-post. You also need to ensure your concrete floor meets the compression strength and depth.

QJ is an elegant and simple solution for the infrequent but involving enthusiast work.
I have a 14 feet garage ceiling and I ended up with a QJ. I don't fancy having a honking 2-post permanent structure. That said, I have been looking for a full 4-post lift that would provide storage of another vehicle on top.

At this time, QJ makes lifting the car safer and "funner" than the good 'ol floor jack + 4 jack-stand dance.

[WangTa]

Originally Posted by AK72

Quickjack BL-7000SLX but I think 5000 is better option for our cars, 7000 a bit too long but no problem as you can see

7000 and 5000 are same length, no? Just differ from between SLX and EXT models.