Paint vs wrap

[zgood4u]

I had my M coupe ceramic coated a number of months ago and for some strange reason the hood and roof have not taken to it. The guy who did the work seems to feel all the UV paint protection in the paint has been compromised. Before I got the car it was in an accident and I guess there was a re-paint and it was probably a cheap quality used. He has offered a respray of both areas or a wrap using STEK wrap. Does anyone have any opinions about either?

[Finnegan]

Not familiar with STEK wraps, but a quality film and experienced installer can do wonders with a wrap. And it's reversible and changeable. The color choices are broad too.

[Jsinghzzzz]

I'm a big fan of paint, wraps look good in pictures but the texture of the film makes it pretty obvious that's it's a wrap. The only time wraps make sense, in my opinion, is when it's a livery or crazy/intricate design.

I think a good alternative is a "peelable paint" also known as Autoflex or Professional grade plasti dip. Full freedom for color choices and you can correct the paint just like regular paint.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by Jsinghzzzz

I'm a big fan of paint, wraps look good in pictures but the texture of the film makes it pretty obvious that's it's a wrap. The only time wraps make sense, in my opinion, is when it's a livery or crazy/intricate design.

I think a good alternative is a "peelable paint" also known as Autoflex or Professional grade plasti dip. Full freedom for color choices and you can correct the paint just like regular paint.

Different strokes for different folks, but I personally would not want to deal with the messiness of plastidip. I actually think wrap is the way to go. Not only do they protect the paint underneath but the finish is way better than any professionally applied plastidip. And if you ever need to 'go back', a wrap comes off way easier than plastidip.

On my old coupe, I did the roof in gloss black covered with clear film. Non-Z4 owners always assumed it was factory original paint. Link here.

On my current roadster, I had the entire car wrapped few months ago. I've had Bimmer enthusiasts comment how they couldn't identify the color, not realizing it wasn't paint lol.

[ZeD4Mr]

Wow... that Hardster looked sooo good. Did you think about having that hardtop spoiler wrapped in black?

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by ZeD4Mr

Wow... that Hardster looked sooo good. Did you think about having that hardtop spoiler wrapped in black?

That’s exactly what I did... carbon fiber

[3GFX]

My car has been wrapped for 2 years now. Best decision I've ever made.

Pros:

- Cheaper than paint.
- Satin finish is easy to clean.
--- I actually spend less on cleaning products every year since its easier (no wax).
- Car washes are cheaper (again can't use wax product).
- I had stone chips from the track in the front bumper so $100 just had it rewrapped.
- Acts like a paint protector.
--- It is thinner material than the clear bra stuff, but its still a layer.
- Definitely the most head turning modification to my car.
- Satin finish shows less wrapping flaws
- Matte would be similar, but slightly harder to maintain (not much)





Cons:

- Edges will lift, its inevitable due to nature of the material
--- It grows and shrinks with weather
- Will only last a few years
- Prices and skills of shops vary
- Just like paint, it chips and scratches
- Glossy wrap is just like paint
--- Generally shows wrapping flaws and orange peel worse
--- Can be waxed and polished (protected)
--- Can show scratches etc. just as easily if not worse than paint.

[Intentional Brown Stain]

No expert here, but I have seen wrap removal process taking chunks of paint with it. Probably on weak spots like repaint and chipped oem paint. I feel heat application would help, but not sure how much.

Also, I have seen wrapping techniques that requires very little heating:
informative-to-me YouTube vid here
This makes me not want to trust the guys that are "pros" but apply heat on every inch of the mirrors and door handles.

If you are trying to do the flat surfaces only like the hood, roof, and hatch, diy is quick and easy. $50us from eBay + get a friend or 2 to help you. Pretty cheap experiment if you ask me.

Fyi, wrap does require UV protection to prevent fading. Like everything else on the car, heat and UV do deteriorate paint, wrap, and dip to each with varying degree.

These high quality wrap jobs probably have minimal peelings but also probably cost as much as full clear bra + ceramic coatings.

But, if you are looking for temporary color change, than wrap and dip is the way the go.

Personally, I prefer dips caz of the low cost on diy. I think it is around $400US for the one time cost for the gadgets, and about $400-500 for material each new paint project... and time. The ++ is no paint damage. However, dip provides minimal physical protections.
Fyi, not sure plastic is silicone base or not, but I am pretty sure silicone base products will bind to rubber. So, maybe be a little careful with window trims, and weather strips?

Informative-to-me DIY dip YouTuber channel
https://www.dipyourcar.com/

Again, no expert here. My car is still on it's bare oem paint.

Ok, I am done . Hope this helps.

[3002 tii]

A wrap won’t pull factory paint, just not possible. If paint ever comes off, just means it was a bad respray job (and the paint didn’t properly cure).

Re corners lifting, shrinking, etc... to some degree yes but a lot of that has to do with the material. 3M, Avery, etc all have different properties, some of which require more/less stretching. But the higher end wraps generally won’t lift if the installer knows what he’s doing (similar to how a good clear bra will not left neither.)

[3GFX]

Originally Posted by Intentional Brown Stain

No expert here, but I have seen wrap removal process taking chunks of paint with it. Probably on weak spots like repaint and chipped oem paint. I feel heat application would help, but not sure how much.

Agree, I had a poor paint job done on my front bumper, and some paint lifted. But that was due to the repaint being poorly done.

As for plastidip and its equivalents. Although cheaper, it generally shows up as cheaper. It also wears worse than wrap. I've dipped a car, and a bike and numerous panels and seen many a car with this fad. I do not recommend it. It dulls (damages?) clearcoat requiring a rebuff (cut and finish) when removed. It's UV longevity is minimal.

As for heat, it depends on the applicator. I've used heat to apply and remove vinyl on painted surfaces and plastics (such as taillights/headlights) and you have to be careful with heat, but these plastic products don't take much heat at all to bend to contours.

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

A wrap won’t pull factory paint, just not possible. If paint ever comes off, just means it was a bad respray job (and the paint didn’t properly cure).

Re corners lifting, shrinking, etc... to some degree yes but a lot of that has to do with the material. 3M, Avery, etc all have different properties, some of which require more/less stretching. But the higher end wraps generally won’t lift if the installer knows what he’s doing (similar to how a good clear bra will not left neither.)

+ 1

[zgood4u]

After reading the pros and cons offered by you fine people I've decided to get the 2 areas re-painted. The detailer has offered to split the cost with me after failing to notice the garbage paint job on the hood which caused the issue in the first place. I knew about the roof already. Thanks for all the input.