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09-08-2013, 01:40 PM | #1 |
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Original Car
2003 Z4 3.0i 6 speed manual Sport package Premium package After several years of modifications, I'm now getting around to documenting all of my experiences and posting them in one place. I'll fill this in as I get time. First and foremost, I'm not sponsored by anyone, nor have I been asked to write a biased review of any product listed. I'm an engineer, and honest data is worth more to me than a small discount. The thread will be organized into categories similar to Zpost. I'm aware that certain posts will be extremely long while others may only have one post. I'll take requests for reviews of specific products first. Thanks for reading! Engine/Exhaust/Drivetrain Cosmos Racing CAI K&N Drop In Filter Shark Injector Dinan Intake RPI Scoop VF Engineering Supercharger Supersprint Race Exhaust Supersprint Headers (Ceramic Coated) 3.64 Final Drive Bimmerworld's JB Racing Lightweight Flywheel / Clutchmasters Sprung Hub Organic Clutch Tial QR Recirculating Bypass Valve Trunk-Mounted AEM Methanol Injection Kit 3.33" Pulley and Smaller Belt Tuning Tech by Frank Smith (TTFS) Dyno Tune Wheels/Tires RFT for A/S A/S for Max Performance Summer Pirelli Pzero Nero for Sumitomo HTR Z III Sportline CS.16 Cosmetics Modification (Interior/Exterior) Carbon Fiber Roundels BMW Performance Shift Knob M-tech Steering Wheel 2005 Tail Lights M Bumper Conversion Tekarbon Headlights APR Splitter Stubby Antenna Carbon Fiber Grills M Seats Reflector and Headlight Washer Holes Filled / Bumper Respray Electronics Gauges with 3D Design Gauge Pod DICE / Audiovox MediaBridge Suspension and Braking Bavarian Autosport HD FCABs Stoptech Sport Pads and Rotors Motul 600 Koni Externally Adjustable Shocks F/R Repairs/Maintenance Oil Changes Belts Starter Fluids Battery FCABs Window Regulator Shift Knob Windshield Alignment Spark Plugs Valve Cover Gasket HID Bulb Tekarbon Headlights Leather Conditioning Wash/Wax Driver’s Side Mirror Front / Rear Bumper Respray Pictures Videos The car dynoed at 285 whp and 225 ft-lbs of torque Third gear highway pull 1st and 2nd gear
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09-08-2013, 01:41 PM | #2 |
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Engine/Exhaust/Drivetrain
1. Cosmos Racing CAI 2. K&N Drop In Filter 3. Shark Injector 4. Dinan Intake 5. RPI Scoop 6. VF Engineering Supercharger 7. Supersprint Race Exhaust 8. Supersprint Headers (Ceramic Coated) 9. 3.64 Final Drive 10. Bimmerworld's JB Racing Lightweight Flywheel / Clutchmasters Sprung Hub Organic Clutch 11. Tial QR Recirculating Bypass Valve 1. Cosmos Racing CAI This was my first modification, and the only one I did for the first few years of owning the car. I bought this "cold air intake" off of Ebay, and it shows. Nothing was particularly bad about it, and it's a cheap way to get an intake growl. The CAI is basically a K&N with a cheap plastic "heat shield" that probably doesn't do much of anything. I doubt any engineering was put into it, and it's sold based on assumptions about what comprises a CAI. If I had to do it again, I would have gone for the Dinan or aFe right away. I ended up taking it off of the car because it amplified a whistle I had at part throttle, which I later found to be a vacuum leak on a cracked intake boot. I cannibalized the K&N for another project, so all that's left is the heat shield. If you want it, it's yours for $50! Pics of the heat shield: 2. K&N Drop In Filter I noticed no real change in horsepower with the addition of a drop in filter. Having felt real changes in horsepower from other mods (like a supercharger or headers), most perceived changes are just your mind trying to justify the money that your heart just spent. A couple of horsepower won't be noticeable anywhere, and I'd just stick to the stock paper filter to avoid the risk of filter oil making its way onto your MAF sensor. 3. Shark Injector Shark Injector Short Take Shark + Headers Shark vs Sport Mode Shark Install 4. Dinan Intake Dinan vs Other Options I was happy with the Shark/Dinan Intake/RPI Scoop combo. If I had to keep the car naturally aspirated, I would have done them all again. I don't remember much change in sound. Dinan does engineer some good products, though there are better ones out there for less money. The intake requires modification to the stock airbox, though nothing too permanent. The only things included are various hardware, filter, and a new box top. 5. RPI Scoop It's hard for me to say whether this mod made power, because I did it simultaneously with several other mods. While not the ideal way of modifying a car, it's what happens when you buy a bunch of parts on deployment and come back to install them all in a weekend. The red scoop was noticeable through the grills of the car, and it intrigued the curiosity of a few enthusiasts. Installation was easy, and I would do this mod again. 6. VF Engineering Supercharger VF Engineering Supercharger Kit Full Review 7. Supersprint Race Exhaust Supersprint Race Exhaust Review 8. Supersprint Headers (Ceramic Coated) Supersprint Headers Review 9. 3.64 Final Drive 3.07-->3.64 Final Drive Review 10. Bimmerworld's JB Racing Lightweight Flywheel / Clutchmasters Sprung Hub Organic Clutch Full Review - Bimmerworld's Lightweight Flywheel/Clutch Combo 11. Tial QR Recirculating Bypass Valve Full Review - Tial QR Recirculating Bypass Valve
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09-08-2013, 01:41 PM | #3 |
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Wheels/Tires
1. RFT for A/S 2. A/S for Max Performance Summer 3. Pirelli Pzero Nero for Sumitomo HTR Z III 4. Sportline CS.16 1. RFT for A/S The Z4 was my first sports car, and I didn't fully realize how bad the stock runflats were until I swapped them out for some non-runflat all season tires. Everything improved - handling, ride comfort, stopping distances. The new tires also showed me how badly the car needed an alignment. With every new car you buy, change all the fluids and get an alignment! With this tire-buying experience, I learned the importance of having a good tire shop. The guys there pushed me to the all seasons because of their price, and steered me away from max performance summer tires. I'll never put all seasons on a car again if it's driven in above-freezing temps. They also had difficulty getting the stock runflats off of the car due to their reinforced sidewalls and the low profile. My tire replacement experiences have been overwhelmingly negative... some have even gone so far as to drag the impact gun across the middle of the wheel from bolt to bolt (which shouldn't be used in the first place!! It should be a torque wrench!!), gouging the wheel. Be wary of cheap tire places. I've only been to two places that have been careful with my wheels when changing tires - a specific dealership and a shop back home. If you go cheap, expect some damage. 2. A/S for Max Performance Summer Before I really knew anything I bought all season tires over max performance summer tires, at the shop's recommendation. I will never put all season tires on my car as long as the temperatures stay above freezing where I'm living. Max performance summer tires are the way to go if your climate allows it. In moderate temperatures, they are better in all weather conditions than all seasons. The primary difference is in the rubber compound used, which hardens and becomes less grippy as the temperatures fall. Otherwise, a max performance summer tire will always outperform an all season tire. 3. Pirelli Pzero Nero for Sumitomo HTR Z III When my M blew a tire, the tire shop only had one brand in stock that would fit - Sumitomo HTR Z III. I was hesitant but didn't really have a choice. Frankly, I was impressed with the Sumitomos on the M because the stock Contis suck. Because I had perceived a noticeable increase in performance on the M, I replaced the worn out - down to the cords - Pirelli Pzeros with some Sumitomos. And again, the old tires were worn out, so of course a performance benefit was noted with the new tires. I have to hand it to the Pirellis, I should have never driven on them as long as I had. Knowing what I know now, the fact that they didn't have a catastrophic failure is impressive. Regardless, I had a very positive experience when switching to the Sumitomos, and the Sumis are some of the cheapest max performance summer tires available. They do tend to run a bit narrow, and the tires require a lot of balancing weights. If you're on a budget, they are a good way to go. Supposedly they don't perform well on the track because they get greasy when they heat up, but for daily driving with a few spirited runs now and then, they are great. Unfortunately the Michelins I replaced them with (on the M) absolutely amazed me, so the next set of tires I get will be Pilot Super Sports. 4. Sportline CS.16 Sportline CS.16 Review
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09-08-2013, 01:42 PM | #4 |
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Cosmetics Modification (Interior/Exterior)
1. Carbon Fiber Roundels 2. BMW Performance Shift Knob 3. M-tech Steering Wheel 4. 2005 Tail Lights 5. M Bumper Conversion 6. Tekarbon Headlights 7. APR Splitter 8. Stubby Antenna 9. Carbon Fiber Grills 10. M Seats 1. Carbon Fiber Roundels 2. BMW Performance Shift Knob 3. M-tech Steering Wheel 4. 2005 Tail Lights 5. M Bumper Conversion 6. Tekarbon Headlights 7. APR Splitter 8. Stubby Antenna 9. Carbon Fiber Grills 10. M Seats
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09-08-2013, 01:42 PM | #5 |
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Electronics
1. Gauges with 3D Design Gauge Pod 1. Gauges with 3D Design Gauge Pod
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Last edited by pokeybritches; 09-08-2013 at 02:24 PM.. |
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09-08-2013, 01:43 PM | #6 |
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Suspension and Braking
1. Bavarian Autosport HD FCABs 2. Stoptech Sport Pads and Rotors 3. Motul 600 4. Koni Externally Adjustable Shocks F/R 1. Bavarian Autosport HD FCABs This was one of my first DIY mods. At 108k miles, the car felt a little loose and due for a refresh, especially when compounded with sticky steering and original shocks. I chose to address the front control arm bushings (FCABs) first. FCABs are a breeze. Jack up the car and remove the aluminum cover under the car. Use a gear puller to get the old FCABs off and some Dawn soap to lube up the new ones as you slide them on. Do NOT use an air chisel. I replaced mine with the Bavauto heavy duty bushings at 108k miles. The difference in handling was night and day. Another post on FCAB replacement. 2. Stoptech Sport Pads and Rotors My stock pads and rotors lasted a LONG time... as in, over 100k miles. While a BBK would be nice, I don't have the need for it as I've never overheated the stock brakes. I like the bias of the stock setup. After reading a few of Stoptech's technical articles, I was convinced that they knew more than just how to build quality components. They understood how a braking system affects the entire car. And since they offered direct replacement pads and rotors, I gave them a shot. My rear pads weren't included in my order from the vendor, and I didn't realize this until I was already at the shop having the pads and rotors installed. Because the rears had a little life left, I am still on OEM rear pads. I've noticed no new noises with the Stoptech setup. Braking feels good, with the right amount of bite for daily driving. The brakes are less grabby and require more pedal effort to stop quickly as compared to the OEM Z4M setup. No complaints, and I'd do this mod again. 3. Motul 600 I flushed the brake fluid when I did my Stoptech pad and rotor swap. I've had the brake pedal go to the floor on a spirited run in the Z4M once, so I decided to use uprated fluid with this flush. I've had no issues with the fluid overheating, though my non-M hasn't seen a race track. 4. Koni Externally Adjustable Shocks F/R
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Last edited by pokeybritches; 10-19-2013 at 01:10 PM.. |
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09-08-2013, 01:43 PM | #7 |
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Repairs/Maintenance
1. Oil Changes 2. Belts 3. Starter 4. Fluids 5. Battery 6. FCABs 7. Window Regulator 8. Shift Knob 9. Windshield 10. Alignment 11. Spark Plugs 12. Valve Cover Gasket 13. HID Bulb 14. Tekarbon Headlights 15. Leather Conditioning 16. Wash/Wax 17. Driver’s Side Mirror 1. Oil Changes 2. Belts 3. Starter 4. Fluids 5. Battery 6. FCABs 7. Window Regulator 8. Shift Knob 9. Windshield 10. Alignment 11. Spark Plugs 12. Valve Cover Gasket 13. HID Bulb 14. Tekarbon Headlights 15. Leather Conditioning 16. Wash/Wax 17. Driver’s Side Mirror
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Last edited by pokeybritches; 09-08-2013 at 02:27 PM.. |
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09-10-2013, 11:17 PM | #10 |
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Pictures and videos added.
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09-11-2013, 09:35 AM | #11 |
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Looking forward to you sharing your wealth of information in one concise collection.
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09-14-2013, 10:20 AM | #12 |
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Thanks! I haven't paved the way on anything just yet. I have the utmost respect for people who do. Fortunately, I've learned things on six different forums and put them to good use on the car!
Added a video from the perspective of the driver's seat. Sorry about the dust. The car will get a detail soon!
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10-17-2013, 06:21 PM | #13 |
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Updated with reviews for the 3.64 final drive and Supersprint headers.
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10-17-2013, 09:12 PM | #15 |
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I hadn't heard they had been discontinued.
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10-19-2013, 01:12 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
Thread updated with some suspension/braking mods.
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10-21-2013, 04:54 PM | #18 |
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Updated with a dyno session video. 285 whp and 225 ft-lbs of torque.
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10-22-2013, 02:18 PM | #19 |
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Dyno posted.
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11-01-2013, 11:56 AM | #20 |
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Finally! What a terrific thread to find. I just bought my dad's 2003 Z4 3.0i after he had his second hip replacement and could no longer get in and out of his Z4 with ease. Only 68,000 kms on the clock so its in damn fine shape. Now starting to research power upgrades and this is a great place to start. Thanks for posting all this info.
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11-29-2013, 04:11 PM | #21 |
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Updated with a third gear highway pull:
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