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      03-28-2015, 11:44 PM   #1
StickMon
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Camshaft Timing

I was hoping to take some of the "Voodoo" out of timing the camshafts.
Everything I've seen says spline sticking out "just a bit" or maybe flush, or sub-flush, or as the TIS says, lightly tighten the hub bolts then jam the Vanos home against these overpriced plastic spacers.
I would rather tighten the hub before installing the Vanos, so I can get a torque wrench on it.

I bought a depth mic for just this purpose, but the smallest one I could find was still an inch too long.
I used 2 six inch machinist's scales. Put one across the face of the spline, and used the other to measure the distance from the spline face to the hub just off the edge of the spline.
If I have to do it again, I'll probably make a gauge out of a piece of metal with intake and exhaust notches.

So here's how far they should stick out.
Note that the exhaust measurement is for a TurboToy/Dr.V-C300 hub.
If you're this deep into the whirley bits and you have a stock exhaust hub, you're doing it wrong.

Spline face to hub right next to spline:
Intake: 0.24"
Exhaust: 0.08"


Name:  vanos_meas.png
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Name:  Vanos_INPA.png
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Size:  90.1 KB
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Last edited by StickMon; 03-28-2015 at 11:56 PM..
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      04-05-2015, 01:13 AM   #2
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lol mate, instead of taking the voodoo out of it, i think you've scared everyone to the be-jesus.. ;-)

nice post though, those numbers are invaluable.
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      04-05-2015, 11:52 AM   #3
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Great idea on making a gauge!
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      04-05-2015, 01:03 PM   #4
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For the m54 engine they have/use a gauge that measures the position from the inner helix gear to the front flush face of the block (where the vanos is bolted to). (it's just a simple jig, but performs the same function in the end I think).
The front flush vanos face is also a fixed reference point.
If you make a jig/gauge that takes its position from there, you can torque the chain gear hubs down in the exact position you need if I see correctly. As long as they're not torqued down they're not a fixed reference point.
I don't think that tolerence will be a really big problem but in essence it's less accurate (or more risk of faults) I think (and you'd have to check the position)
Such a jig is also maybe easier to make as it's just 1 piece of milled steel, but taking alignments to design the jig might be a bit more work.
A jig like that would also function with any type/make of chain gear hub.
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      04-22-2015, 07:23 PM   #5
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I could be wrong, but I think that the $25 dollar plastic spacer serves that purpose. As long as the pistons are fully retracted, it would serve to properly set splined gear depth. I didn't use it to time my engine even though I have that sitting around in my garage. Maybe next time..

If you have access to the TIS instructions for replacing camshafts, that's the method they use. retract pistons, install vanos to the spacer, tighten 4 bolts to 14 nm then slacken 1/4 turn, remove spacers and bolt vanos to the head and tighten bolts.
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      04-23-2015, 12:50 PM   #6
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Yea, I have those but never used them.
I wanted to torque the hub bolts with the Vanos off so I didn't have to use a crow's foot.
I think the TIS calls for this, if anyone can figure out what the rest of it is.
A breakover torque wrench, I imagine, but never saw a part number for it.

Looks like after setting the timing you took the Vanos back off for the final torque of the bolts.
That works, too.
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Last edited by StickMon; 04-23-2015 at 01:01 PM..
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      04-23-2015, 04:31 PM   #7
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Yeah, I think that is the easiest way for us. Removing the vanos to tighten the hub bolts then put everything back together. But I see the merits of having a gauge to set the spline depth in the first place without putting the vanos on.
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      04-19-2020, 09:44 AM   #8
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this was the approach I wanted to take last week when I did my VANOS, but I did not have a solid way of measure and I only had my reference pictures, so I followed the TIS method and "torque by feel", which I still don't feel 100% happy with. what I did is that I torqued one bolt to 13NM on the intake side with the torque wrench (which fits) and then apply force to it to move it about 1/8 of a turn, then cheque torque with the torque wrench to see if that made it and it did, this was just to build some muscle memory and I kept that bolt as my control to try and be as consistent as possible, in the end, I think I got it right, but never like with an actual torque wrench.

Then I just loosened and torque my control bolt on the intake side so it was spot on.

At the end I sort of regret not using a crowfoot adapter and adjust the torque wrench by 2-3% down and torque them out, however it is now back together so it is what it is.
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