M Coupe LTW build

[Michael9218]

I've been using the Condor Speed Shop offset poly front control arm bushings for a couple seasons since replacing the SLR kit. Recently took a bit of a hit to the P side control arm in an off. The bushing rotated in the lollipop. These need some type of retention pin.

Offset should be to the outboard to kick the control arm forward for more castor:


Close up:


Condor didn't seem interested in this issue with their FCAB, so I fabbed a retention pin by drilling the lollipop and inserting a 1" screw. Should do the trick.

[Michael9218]

I finally got around to replacing the splitter I made a few years ago (surprised it lasted this long!). The original was a simple wet layup CF splitter. Pretty basic and fairly light at 8 lbs.

Now that I've advanced to infusion vacuum bagging, it was time to take a crack at it. I made a molding table out of a piece of alumalite. 3/8" foam core, 3 layers of 200gsm with one biaxial under and 2 layers on top. Also molded in wood inserts at the bolt locations.



I also molded diffuser panels and end plates. Shot the finished splitter with several layers of satin clear coat. Weight is 5 lbs. Super stiff!

[Michael9218]

Decided to change the look a bit and paint a set of wheels bronze to see how it looked.

I prepped a set that was between tires and painted them with rattle can Dupli-color bronze wheel paint and then shot them with a 2 part 25% satin clear coat.

First I needed a small paint booth with an exhaust fan. 2 part paints are toxic! And of course I wore a respirator.



Came out with a better paint finish than the Apex satin black!



I'm liking the look!

[Michael9218]

Updating from a cross post. This winter I replaced my pitted glass windshield with a polycarbonate windshield from Plastic 4 Performance.

Got the OEM windshield off and test fit the P4P Lexan windshield. Perfect fit (just like the rear window).



The 1/4" Lexan weighs 16 lbs. The stock glass a bit over 22 lbs. Was hoping for more weight savings, but the 1/4" (6mm) Lexan is thick and doesn't need a center support rod. A thinner 3/16" (5mm) would've weighed less, but according to Peggy at Raceshields would've required support. FWIW, the OEM glass windshield is 3/16" thick.

To prevent scratching and pitting, I put a Pro-shields protective film on the windshield. This can be replaced as it gets beat up so you always have a clear windshield.

[Michael9218]

Another small project was to replace pieces of aluminum shrouding to seal the cooler to the bumper cover with a solid, light carbon fiber oil cooler shroud. One for each of the two coolers.

I made a box for a mold. Vacuum bagged several layers to make a much improved design. Came out nice!

[Vanne]

was wondering where you'd gone mate

[racerbruce]

SO well done -
Thank you for the detailed posts/pics as it allows the mere mortals (that would be me) to see precision design/fabrication and very innovative solutions.

It's so fun to watch threads by Vanne and Michael, etc as they allow the racer in racerbruce to geek out at a full-monty Z4M.

[F360C]

Originally Posted by Michael9218

A man's got to have a hobby...

I used Pliogrip 60 Panel Bond.

Quick question...

About to install my Carbon roof... approx how many tubes of adhesive did you use? I ordered two but now wondering I need a third?

Thanks!

[Michael9218]

Originally Posted by F360C

Quick question...

About to install my Carbon roof... approx how many tubes of adhesive did you use? I ordered two but now wondering I need a third?

Thanks!

Sorry, just saw this. I used one tube and had left over.

[Michael9218]

Decided it was time for a rod bearing check and replacement. Oil analysis has been consistently good, so expected decent bearing wear. The bearings have been in the motor for 4.5 years of track only use. 3.5 years was with my dry sump system that provides outstanding oil pressure. Used Redline Race oil, 30wt and 40wt.

Pretty happy with the results and will consider the new BE Bearings essentially life of the motor. These bearings show only slight wear through the slippery coating. Little to no wear into the lead.

BE Bearings using OEM bolts:


For reference, below are the bearings I replaced when I bought and built the car. 75,000 miles of unknown use:

[grannyknot]

Those do look nice considering hard use of thinner oil. How many hours do think are on them?

[Michael9218]

Originally Posted by grannyknot

Those do look nice considering hard use of thinner oil. How many hours do think are on them?

Back of the envelope, I’d say 200 hours at an average rpm of 6,500.

Mostly with the high zinc 40wt race oil. I only used 30wt one winter.

[Michael9218]

A little eye candy for those who like to geek out on all things mechanical.
Servicing the Peterson dry sump oil pump.

[grannyknot]

Pretty, there's a few dollars right there.

[Vanne]

Beaut oil pump mate. very very nice indeed. nice job as usual Michael.
which oil are you running btw? might look for a lighter oil myself after shakedown.

[F360C]

Originally Posted by Michael9218

Sorry, just saw this. I used one tube and had left over.

Thank you Sir!

[07ImolaRot]

Impressive build !

[Michael9218]

Fun wet track day last weekend. Finally got to use the Hoosier wets.
They are amazing!

Photographer got some cools shots!

[Michael9218]

So Josh contacted me the other day to tell me about a new flash app he has that improved flash time from 50 minutes to 50 seconds!

Being game for anything that can improve power, I jumped at the chance when he offered to meet me at a local dyno shop for some additional tuning (though he can tune remote as well).

Being able to flash tunes so quickly, he went about methodically building the new tune starting with intake cam timing, then exhaust cam timing, and then ignition and fuel. The result was well beyond my expectation and quite possibly the highest HP I've heard of for a MAF'd tune on an internally stock S54.

350 rwhp and 267 ft-lbs of torque!

Though our previous dyno tune two years ago posted 336 rwhp, the baseline this morning was 332hp for a peak-to-peak improvement of 18hp, but the max improvement was a whopping 28hp around 7,000 rpm! Torque was also greatly improved throughout the mid-range.

Can't wait to try this new tune next week at Road Atlanta.



Mods to the motor:
Supersprint V1 headers
Catless custom exhaust
CSL intake customized to pull through a MAF
Eventuri filter housing
Dry sump
Underdrive pullies

[maupineda]

Wow! More and more excited about my Karb box to work with MAF and eventuri

[E86Z4MC]

Originally Posted by Michael9218

So Josh contacted me the other day to tell me about a new flash app he has that improved flash time from 50 minutes to 50 seconds!

Being game for anything that can improve power, I jumped at the chance when he offered to meet me at a local dyno shop for some additional tuning (though he can tune remote as well).

Being able to flash tunes so quickly, he went about methodically building the new tune starting with intake cam timing, then exhaust cam timing, and then ignition and fuel. The result was well beyond my expectation and quite possibly the highest HP I've heard of for a MAF'd tune on an internally stock S54.

350 rwhp and 267 ft-lbs of torque!

Though our previous dyno tune two years ago posted 336 rwhp, the baseline this morning was 332hp for a peak-to-peak improvement of 18hp, but the max improvement was a whopping 28hp around 7,000 rpm! Torque was also greatly improved throughout the mid-range.

Can't wait to try this new tune next week at Road Atlanta.



Mods to the motor:
Supersprint V1 headers
Catless custom exhaust
CSL intake customized to pull through a MAF
e-Venturi filter housing
Dry sump

Can you say more about use of the eventuri filter housing? Pictures from the thread appear to be using the oem filter housing?

[Michael9218]

About the Eventuri intake:
I had planned to do a back-to-back dyno pull when all the tuning was done, but chose not to in the end because:
1. The baseline pull with the Eventuri filter compared to the final session from the last time on the dyno with the stock filter box was down 4 hp. So if the Eventuri made an improvement, it was within the normal variance.
2. Lost motivation after 2 1/2 hours of countless dyno pulls.

Even though we had a fan blowing straight at the ram air intake, I think that on track there may be some benefit to the Eventuri design. Not sure and will never know.

The Eventuri filter is a couple pounds lighter and frees up space in the engine bay. It looks cool. I suppose I'm satisfied with that.

As for bang for buck, both the CSL intake and the Eventuri filter don't justify. Enhancing your stock filter box by removing the evap filter, use a K&N filter and smooth bore your MAF and I believe you'll get results very near to Eventuri's claim. Spend your money on a dyno tune with Severn instead.

So here is my new intake setup:


I fabricated my own mount and tie-in to my intake tube for captive cold airflow on track.