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      09-02-2015, 12:21 AM   #45
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Took all the hydraulic lines off each side of the top on a 2004 Z4 . And like an idiot i didn't take note of which line end goes where. Can you help me ?
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      08-07-2016, 02:40 PM   #46
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I guess it was only a matter of time before I had to post here as well. It seems like a rite of passage... 2004 z4 here.

So I went to take a ride yesterday and when I hit the top down button, it unlatched but didn't want to move. I thought "Oh s***, here we go, but gave it a polite nudge in the right direction and she began to move and made it all the way down.

Now, my top is down, but when I press the button, the red light comes on, I hear it unlock, then a little rumble and nothing.

The fact that it went down seems encouraging, but reading this thread crushed my will.

Making an appointment to see the dealer this week.
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      11-21-2016, 08:31 PM   #47
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Top power up and part way down

I'm having and issue with my 2003 Z4 top. Surprise!
The car has 47k miles and the top has not been used for a while.
It unlatches fine, but won't power open unless I manually move it about half way. Then it opens and latches fine. Closing it closes fast and without issue.
At first I thought it was the motor issue, as outlined, in so many postings and I bought a motor. I went to my upholstery shop tonight and the tech checked it over and looked down inside and saw no leaks or fluid residue. I live by Seattle, so it's pretty wet here, but not salty roads like the guys out East therefore no corrosion or rust issues.
So, now I'm wondering what the heck could be going on. I read that shipkiller has hydraulic fluid running through his veins an might shed some light on this. All replies are welcome.
Many Thanks,
Bill
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      12-15-2016, 01:23 PM   #48
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06 bmw z4 3.0si roof problems

Could you please show me where the actuators are located at, and the seals.. because the motor and roof was replaced about three months ago, and I know that isn't the problem for sure. And I can't go to the dealership to have them fix it as I am broke, but I am handy, so I rather do it myself. Can you please send me a message here or to my email denistkachuk07@gmail.com - and also where do I get shipkiller's DIY pic instructions? Thank you


Quote:
Originally Posted by RecycledTeen View Post
Here's latest update:

Got the fluid, topped off motor/pump, cycled power to it off and on, reversing a couple of times, got it to push fluid into the system, confirmed location of leak. It's not the lines as suspected, it's the RH actuator. Must've blown a seal and leaks this stuff right out from it's housing.



Since it's a replaceable part, I'll give it a shot (thankfully with a little help from THIS).

Also, depending on turn around time, may consider a rebuild pair from these guys. Two for the price of one. Anybody have any experience with them?


Could you please show me where the actuators are located at, and the seals.. because the motor and roof was replaced about three months ago, and I know that isn't the problem for sure. And I can't go to the dealership to have them fix it as I am broke, but I am handy, so I rather do it myself. Can you please send me a message here or to my email denistkachuk07@gmail.com - and also where do I get shipkiller's DIY pic instructions? Thank you
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      12-15-2016, 01:25 PM   #49
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06 bmw z4 3.0si roof problems

Could you please show me where the actuators are located at, and the seals.. because the motor and roof was replaced about three months ago, and I know that isn't the problem for sure. And I can't go to the dealership to have them fix it as I am broke, but I am handy, so I rather do it myself. Can you please send me a message here or to my email denistkachuk07@gmail.com - and also where do I get your DIY pic instructions? Thank you





Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
Since I wrote the original DIY on the softtop motor, I have privately been keeps an informal tab on softtop issues. Over the last two or three years, more and more of the hydraulic actuators have been developing leaks. On some cars, just one actuator will fail. On others, both will fail.

Since I have been dealing with hydraulics on Submarines for the last 30 years, this really is to be expected after a long period of time and use. The seals will deform or 'roll' and now they need replaced. It is not a design issue.

I actually would like to get a hold of a failed actuator and take it apart to see if they can be rebuilt.
Could you please show me where the actuators are located at, and the seals.. because the motor and roof was replaced about three months ago, and I know that isn't the problem for sure. And I can't go to the dealership to have them fix it as I am broke, but I am handy, so I rather do it myself. Can you please send me a message here or to my email denistkachuk07@gmail.com - and also where do I get your DIY pic instructions? Thank you
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      12-16-2016, 12:08 PM   #50
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What you have in your photo IS the actuator. Top Hydraulics is the place to get them rebuilt.

https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/bmw/21-bmw-z4.html

You can get Shipkillers DIY instructions on removing and re-installing the top, and one on replacing the hinge assemblies (actuators).

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...&postcount=114
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      01-30-2017, 11:36 AM   #51
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I have had this problem as well and the dealer has been quoting the repair at about $1500. Motor itself is about $300
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      05-01-2017, 11:49 AM   #52
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So, now I get to join this thread as so many others have.

My top button has no orange or red lights happening when I push the buttons. It's totally dead. Oh, and the tops down and not coming up. I haven't seen anyone post this yet. Am I the first
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      05-01-2017, 01:49 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tominizer View Post
So, now I get to join this thread as so many others have.

My top button has no orange or red lights happening when I push the buttons. It's totally dead. Oh, and the tops down and not coming up. I haven't seen anyone post this yet. Am I the first
If it was the pump motor you should at least hear the front latch motor run when you hold the button to put the top up, but if you're hearing nada and getting no lights, then time to start checking fuses and connections to the top control module.
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      05-04-2017, 02:30 PM   #54
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Well, I may be the #1 idiot on the site right now if it's what I think it is. I had taken out the center console to recover it. Thinking now I may have not re-plugged in the switch........... if that's the issue, its not going to be an expensive fix, but my pride will be destroyed as a backyard mechanic.
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      05-04-2017, 07:26 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tominizer View Post
Well, I may be the #1 idiot on the site right now if it's what I think it is. I had taken out the center console to recover it. Thinking now I may have not re-plugged in the switch........... if that's the issue, its not going to be an expensive fix, but my pride will be destroyed as a backyard mechanic.
Ladies and gentlemen, I think we have a diagnosis!
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      05-11-2017, 06:25 PM   #56
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Misery loves company - looks like I am next in line. Got back from Florida on Tuesday.....called to reinstate insurance, bought and installed new battery, adjusted tire pressures, pressed button to open top - nothing! Top catches unlatch, but that's all. Dropped the hood manually and reconnected the hydraulics, hoping that it may be a problem with the sensor in the trunk, but still nothing.
Time to look up Shipkiller's instructions and track down a new motor/pump☹️
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      05-12-2017, 07:07 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tominizer View Post
Well, I may be the #1 idiot on the site right now if it's what I think it is. I had taken out the center console to recover it. Thinking now I may have not re-plugged in the switch........... if that's the issue, its not going to be an expensive fix, but my pride will be destroyed as a backyard mechanic.
I hope that is the problem and the fix is easy. And hey - to err is human so don't worry about it!
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      05-16-2017, 08:00 AM   #58
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Yup, happy to report back that my top is back up and running. In removing the center console, something did not get plugged back in. In my own defense, the plug was the small one on the top in the switch console and it "klicked" in but didn't lock properly. So it must have come loose and fallen out. Anyways, all good now.
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      05-16-2017, 12:25 PM   #59
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Problem fixed and money saved - sounds like a very good day!
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      12-19-2018, 12:44 PM   #60
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Hi. Anyone can help please or insight.

When I press the open top button there's a light but nothing else happens. The window doesn't go down. No response from motor latch. I don't know what's wrong. I have read a lot but most of them have the issue of not opening but unlatch and motor works.
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      12-19-2018, 01:06 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4C17 View Post
Hi. Anyone can help please or insight.

When I press the open top button there's a light but nothing else happens. The window doesn't go down. No response from motor latch. I don't know what's wrong. I have read a lot but most of them have the issue of not opening but unlatch and motor works.
Rear microswitch that detects if the top shelf in the trunk is up or down.
Common failure.
part #12
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E8...p_compartment/

btw your profile states that you drive a coupe. Are you sure you have a removable softtop?
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      03-02-2019, 11:39 PM   #62
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I'm new to the forum. I have recently purchased a 2004 Z4 2.5i model. The top is non-functional. The buttons near the ashtray appear to do nothing. The weird thing, if the top is dropped manually, the top light flashes red and the battery drains to a point where it will not crank the car within 30 minutes. Once the top is placed back in the closed position, the light will eventually quit flashing and the car battery works normally. The electric release for the top doesn't function. Does anyone know what causes the battery drain when the top is open? Does it sound like the hydraulic motor and pump need to be replaced as well as the electric lock motor? Do the buttons sound like they need to be replaced? The car has been sitting outside under an oak tree for the past few years. The top condition overall is acceptable along with the interior liner. The previous owner just said the hydraulic motor had failed. Any help in troubleshooting or where to start would be appreciated.
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      03-07-2019, 07:52 AM   #63
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Perhaps the car needs a new battery. These cars exhibit weird problems when the battery needs replacing.
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      03-17-2019, 12:28 PM   #64
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Hello all,

I've been lurking here for a while to learn how to replace the faulty roof motor on my 2003 Z4 2.5i (it was the normal rusted out from standing water issue. Bought it that way for $1000 off the asking price).
Huge thanks to everyone who is contributing to sharing the knowledge on this!!

Using the guides here and elsewhere I was able to dismantle the top, replace the motor ($600) and start putting it back together again with the motor in the trunk, but the top is not working.

Here's my analysis so far - hope someone can confirm what I need to do next:
* Microswitch of the trunk shelf is activated with some paper wedged in there.
* Red handle is in the correct position.
* Windshield latch mechanism is working.
* Motor is whirring when it's turn comes, but the top doesn't move.
* I opened the air release screw under the black latch mechanism, and did get a bit of a hiss of air coming out, after reading on the internet that perhaps air needs to be bled.

When I reconnected the hydraulic hoses, I put them in the same positions that they were on my old pump, but someone on the internet pointed out that the numbers on the pump block should match the numbers on the hoses.
However, I don't have numbers on my hoses - at least not ones I can see...
I looked at the old motor, and indeed the numbers there seem to be on the opposite side. i.e. if numbers 11 and 13 are by the left outlet on the new pump, they are by the right outlet on the old one.

Question 1: Am I correct in thinking that I need to switch the hoses over?

I didn't get new washers for the hydraulic connectors, but since this will be the 3rd time I'm reconnecting them, maybe I should.

Question 2: Can anyone point me to a quick link for the correct parts I need to buy?

In all my attempts to get it to work, I lost some hydraulic fluid, so I'm assuming I need to fill some up.

Question 3: How do I fill hydraulic fluid? How do I know what level to fill it to? Will it be ok if I use some of the fluid out of the old motor?

I also noticed that the green and blue wires were connected on opposite sides on the new motor - Assuming I need to switch those over as well.

Question 4: If I try to operate it with the wires connected incorrectly, could it cause any harm? And what will it actually do?

Thanks again to all who are giving advice!
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      03-17-2019, 02:59 PM   #65
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Hmmm... with more research I found the following text:
"Banjo bolts have a hole on one side of the bolt that MUST align with the hydraulic hoses at the finish of tightening the bolt. Draw or score a small mark on the head of each banjo bolt to provide a visual reference of the proper alignment of the banjo bolt’s fluid hole with the hydraulic lines."

I wish that one of the guides I had read/viewed earlier had bothered to mention this...
So I'm anyway going to have to open the banjos to get them aligned correctly, but I don't know if I should switch ports or not...

Also, what do I do if the bolt tightens to a specific angle which results in the hoses pointing the wrong way? In the new position in the trunk there is not enough hose if it ends up pointing downwards...

About the crush washers, I found a hydraulic top repair kit for $88 that includes them, but haven't been able to find them alone...
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/614...t-54347114081/

General rant: None of the motor replacement videos/guides I followed had any guidelines or advice about the sequence, difficulties and specific issues to be faced when putting it all together again...
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