Installing shifter -- and a whole lot more

[wdb]

EDIT: I began this thread asking for advice about what else I should do while I have several big bits pulled off the underside of my car. It's turned into one of those ever-expanding projects so I've changed the thread title. Here are the bits I replaced.
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My Z4MC has about 83K miles. It's had regular maintenance throughout its life including transmission and differential oil changes. I have all the bits pulled off underneath so that I can install a short shift assembly, RE X-pipe, and RE transmission mounts. The driveshaft differential seal is also seeping so I plan to drop the driveshaft and deal with that. Oh and I'm not thrilled with the clutch operation and bleeding didn't change anything, so I may pull the gearbox out. (EDIT: I did.)

DRIVESHAFT
- driveshaft guibo
- driveshaft center bearing
- new hardware as indicated by newtis.info

REAR DIFF
- input shaft seal
- oil change using BMW gear oil

CLUTCH
- OEM or equivalent disc, pressure plate, T/O bearing, pilot bearing
- OEM equivalent dual mass flywheel
- all new hydraulics
- SS flex line (overkill maybe but it came in the kit)
- new hardware as indicated by newtis.info

SHIFTER
- Auto Solutions short shift kit (I used the blue bushings)
- OEM rear shift rail mount
- OEM transmission mounts

WHAT ELSE
- Vibra-Technics motor mounts (road version)
- new bolts for aluminum reinforcement plate under engine
- new bolts for steel reinforcement plate under center of car

[pwrdbym]

If you're not happy with the clutch action then you may consider removing entirely or installing a modified clutch delay valve. There's plenty of data online already if you search. As for clutch bleeding I typically fill a 60cc syringe and "push" the fluid back up towards the reservoir (make sure there's room in the reservoir.) Getting air in the clutch lines or cylinder is easy using the old school method.

At 83k I really don't think you're in need of a lot of stuff, obviously address the leak and possibly just install a new flex disc because they're cheap, reuse the bolts. I'm not even sure a new clutch is necessary at this point, and if you choose to install one I wouldn't do the flywheel; (typically the flywheel is a 2:1 replacement interval with clutch)

[garz747]

I would check the engine mount bolts/brackets while under there.. As well I have super low mileage car but I find stock clutch the best of anything Ive driven. Not too heavy and perfect bite 1/2 way off the floor.Dont think you need aftermarket- probably worn with that mileage.

[Steeler]

Not sure if the M is a 2 piece DS, but if it is look at the centre hanger bearing and the slip joint bearing. Not expensive parts.

[wdb]

Originally Posted by pwrdbym

If you're not happy with the clutch action then you may consider removing entirely or installing a modified clutch delay valve. There's plenty of data online already if you search. As for clutch bleeding I typically fill a 60cc syringe and "push" the fluid back up towards the reservoir (make sure there's room in the reservoir.) Getting air in the clutch lines or cylinder is easy using the old school method.

At 83k I really don't think you're in need of a lot of stuff, obviously address the leak and possibly just install a new flex disc because they're cheap, reuse the bolts. I'm not even sure a new clutch is necessary at this point, and if you choose to install one I wouldn't do the flywheel; (typically the flywheel is a 2:1 replacement interval with clutch)

Thank you for the information! CDV was done about 15 minutes after I bought the car. The problem with the clutch is that it engages right near the floor. I bled the hydraulics thoroughly and it did not change. My indy thinks the clutch plate may not be moving freely on the input shaft. That's a possibility. There is no slippage or any other clutch misbehavior, just the engagement point.

Originally Posted by garz747

I would check the engine mount bolts/brackets while under there.. As well I have super low mileage car but I find stock clutch the best of anything Ive driven. Not too heavy and perfect bite 1/2 way off the floor.Dont think you need aftermarket- probably worn with that mileage.

I'm leaning hard towards a factory clutch. I see no reason to go with any of the Stage This or Stage That options, but thought I'd check with the group to see if there was something I don't know. As for the motor mounts, that end of things will be next winter. I'll do rod bearings etc.

Originally Posted by dbarton62

Not sure if the M is a 2 piece DS, but if it is look at the centre hanger bearing and the slip joint bearing. Not expensive parts.

It is a 2-piece driveshaft. I call that center bearing thing a guibo and I'm planning on putting in a new one. I'll look into the slip joint bearing, thanks. Any thoughts on the rubber donuts on the ends of the driveshaft?

[Steeler]

The guibo is the flex joint between DS and tranny output

[garz747]

Its GUIBO. GUIDO WAS ON SAT NIGHT LIVE YEARS AGO LOL

[wdb]

I decided to go ahead with pulling the gearbox. Transmission jack ordered; I'm too old to be playing around with anything else under there.

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by garz747

Its GUIBO. GUIDO WAS ON SAT NIGHT LIVE YEARS AGO LOL

Thanks. Fixed.

Your cap lock is busted👌

[wdb]

As I mention in the now-edited first post, this is becoming something of an omnibus project. I've been following the excellent Pelican Parts how-to and it says, among other things, "remove the starter -- but first get the intake plenum out of your way." So I dutifully follow *that* how-to, pull the plenum off, and, lo and behold....

Originally Posted by garz747

I would check the engine mount bolts/brackets while under there..

...Uhhh, yeah. With the intake plenum out of the way the DS motor mount and bracket is as accessible as it can possibly be. So I'll be doing those.

Originally Posted by dbarton62

The guibo is the flex joint between DS and tranny output

You're right, it is, my bad. I'm still looking for information on longevity. I'd imagine it to be pretty robust, but then again it's German rubber.

Originally Posted by wdb

I decided to go ahead with pulling the gearbox. Transmission jack ordered; I'm too old to be playing around with anything else under there.

Jack arrived. Well, most of it. The wooden crate had one end completely blown out and missing, replaced with a piece of cardboard. Wherever and whenever that happened some of the pieces needed to assemble the jack went missing. After a lengthy tussle with Amazon, I'm awaiting a free replacement. I also have decided not to purchase heavy items through Amazon anymore.

Does anyone want to buy most of a brand new 1/2 ton transmission jack?

As I now know, removing the intake plenum means destroying 6 single use clamps. Do I replace them with same, which requires buying a special tool, or do I source some hose clamps of similar dimension? I'm going with the latter but open to hearing others' experience.

I figure I may as well also do the transmission and rear fluids while this is all going on. My parts list is growing longer and longer!

[Steeler]

The guiBo takes a lot of abuse so as a relatively cheap bit I would replace seeing as its easily accessible now.

[Vanne]

Great to see your doing it yourself mate. Those intake ring clips can be re-used if your not ham fisted with them. Getting them back on is not a nice job, just a heads up for ya.

[wdb]

Originally Posted by Vanne

Great to see your doing it yourself mate. Those intake ring clips can be re-used if your not ham fisted with them. Getting them back on is not a nice job, just a heads up for ya.

I found some narrow hose clamps used on Porsches that I hope will fit nicely. Cheaper than buying the tool I'd need even to re-use the BMW items. I'll let folks know how well they work.

[yousefnjr]

Good time to swap a new ring & pinion in your diff

[wdb]

The !@#$%^&* transmission is out, finally. What a trip.

First was the jack debacle. They sent me a jack, the packaging of which was destroyed in transit and therefore crucial bits were missing. I cussed and moaned and Amazon finally offered to send me an entire new jack free of charge! Sounds nice right? Except it took forever and day to arrive, and of course the packaging had not survived and there were missing parts. At least I had enough between the two packages to assemble one complete jack, except for a couple of common items I got from my local Ace store. Finally I can finish pulling the gearbox.

I get the jack situated and pull the remaining bolts, and start to pull the transmission back. It comes away a certain amount then stops. What is going on? After a lot of effort and prying and grunting, I see what appears to be a spot where it is failing to separate from a thin plate that goes between the block and bell housing. It turns out that, despite having two different sets of instructions to follow, neither of them told me about a little bolt that goes through from the engine side, through the thin plate, and into the bell housing. I had to pull the front suspension support plate down to get at it. Finally got it removed, hurrah!

I look back at the jack which I assumed had been faithfully supporting the gearbox all this time. It wasn't. It loses hydraulic pressure, all by itself. Lovely. But at least it got the beastie out from under the car.

After that I was pretty beat so I left everything for the night. I'm heading back out today to see what I've uncovered, and how much of a mess I made of that thin plate.

Moral of story: believe your eyes, not the instructions. And take everything off that even remotely might be blocking your view. A few bucks on one-time use bolts is worth to have a good look.

[wdb]

Parts!

Center bearing (already installed), guiBo, transmission mounts. I also have Rogue transmission mounts but I think I'm going to stay with stock for this location.

Auto Solutions shifter goodness! Shift lever and bushings in the arm and ready for installation.

Clutch kit, flywheel, various other bits.
Vibra-Technics motor mounts, road version. I checked the mount bracket - to - engine block bolts, which have been noted as a problem spot on these cars. They were all nice, tight and snugged up. Either they were done before or the car was not among those that had the problem. Either way, if they are tight at 83K miles I don't think I need to worry about them.

Rear diff oil change kit. This is not strictly necessary but I replaced the input pinion seal, plus the previous owner had used Redline oil and I wanted to go back to BMW OEM. Never had any issues with the Redline for what it's worth.

[Vanne]

hey bud, for some reason i cant see the pics?

[eggman51]

Originally Posted by Vanne

hey bud, for some reason i cant see the pics?

Me neither.

[wdb]

Originally Posted by Vanne

hey bud, for some reason i cant see the pics?

Originally Posted by eggman51

Me neither.

No idea what happened with the pics, I did what I always do. Anyway I uploaded them as attachments. Hopefully it works now.

[wdb]

Okay! New flywheel is in, new throwout bearing is in, new clutch is in. I bolted the pressure plate down tight before removing the SAC lock thingamabob; hope that was the right thing to do. Pelican Parts doesn't seem to think so in their how-to but they had some other stuff wrong. And Efthreeoh has an excellent writeup on N52 clutch replacement that says to bolt it down tight before removing the SAC thingamabob (throwing star?).

Only had to invent two "BMW special tools". The hardest part was probably needing a bolt about 3/4" longer than any I had laying around. This meant going to a hardware store, which of course these days meant risking one's life. Fun times.

[Vanne]

Awesome!! Can't wait to hear how it goes.

[3798j]

Least favorite job for me is offering up the transmission, getting it inserted, holding in place as the bolts are started. I know you bought the transmission jack, but this is a time that I've always appreciated an extra set of hands...but with social distancing, do we assume you're doing this alone?