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      08-16-2009, 10:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onelove View Post
Great read thanks to the Hack.

I'm up in the air on wheels for the track for my Z4M. I've tracked my modified E46 quite a bit with 245/275 on it and modified suspension. My Z4M has full TCK setup with camber maxed out on 235/265 on the street, it definitely feels a bit more skirmish than E46. I'd prefer a bit more grip but don' want to go overboard, right now I'm thinking 245/40/18 and 275/35/18 NT01s might be the ticket. Thoughts or experiance with this size / setup?

I've found quality 18" wheels even more challenging to find as well, most used E46 setups are square or the wrong offset, the TR Motorsports MT1s from Tirerack are a great option but the 10" rears are constantly on back order.
I am looking at getting MT1s...I will prolly go with the 9.5 width as they are 1lbs lighter and will accommodate any tire I would consider for the rears.
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      08-17-2009, 01:35 PM   #24
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As for tire advice, all I can say is different tire brands and makes all have different standard width, and even rim width will affect tire width. So a set of 245mm Nitto NT-01s mounted on 8.5" wide rims may actually be WIDER than a set of 275mm Goodyear Eagle F1s mounted on 8" wide rims.

The only thing I can suggest, is go to the local track events, talk to guys with various rim size/tire sizes and see how it works on their X,XXX lbs car, then start with a baseline to work from.

I've been riding on 245f/265r R1-Rs shod on 8.5f et38/9.5r et25 rims for nearly 2 seasons now with hot pressure right at 38psi and it seems to work well for ME on stock suspension. So take that for what it's worth.
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      08-18-2009, 02:08 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4MCJJ View Post
I am looking at getting MT1s...I will prolly go with the 9.5 width as they are 1lbs lighter and will accommodate any tire I would consider for the rears.
TR Motorsport wheels in 10 inches are too wide for the rears in my opinion. I am using 9.5 rears and they are perfect when combined with Nitto NT01s. I only have a very slight rubbing issue on the right rear and it's only in one spot where compression G forces put about 2.5 to 3 vertical Gs on the car (Fuechsrohre dip on the Nordschleife of the Nuerburgring). Any wider and there would certainly be problems for me. 9.5 rears are also lighter.
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      08-18-2009, 12:06 PM   #26
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So here's the setups I'm considering. First the wheel specs...

Front: 18x9 +40
Rear: 18x9.5 +35

I'm a bit more unsure about the tires sizes, on the other hand. These are all based off of the Dunlop Star Specs. Here's what I'm considering...

Front:
- 245/40/18 (Overall Diam 25.7")
- 255/35/18 (Overall Diam 25")
- 265/35/18 (Overall Diam 25.3")

Rear:
- 265/35/18 (Overall Diam 25.3")
- 275/35/18 (Overall Diam 25.6")

Do we think I'd run in to trouble with 265's up front? Remember, the offset is +40. I'm pretty sure 265's up front would be pushing it. How about 255's up front? I'm pretty sure those would work especially with some negative camber dialed in. By running 255's up front and 275's out back, there is a .6" difference in overall diameter. Should that concern me? My guess is no...
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      08-18-2009, 04:10 PM   #27
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I don't think 265s on a 9" wheel are going to fit up front without problems. And +35 offset on the rear is a little too sunk in, you want +22 on the rear on a 18x9.5 rim running 275-35-18 tires. Otherwise you might hit something on the inboard side of the wheels, not to mention it'll look a little wimpy.

I run (daily) NT-01s in 245-40-18/275-35-18 on 18x8.5/18x9.5 CSL reps with no clearance issues (I use all my available travel regularly). Very affordable and very effective setup. The tire stagger works well for my driving style, though some might want a little more tire upfront but I wouldn't go beyond 255. If you do that on a 9" rim, choose the offset very carefully.
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      08-18-2009, 04:16 PM   #28
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I should have mentioned this. I have spacers in 5mm, 10mm and 15mm sizes to get the rear fitment just right...
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      08-18-2009, 05:07 PM   #29
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I'd avoid spacers on the track. Some say they're fine, but I wouldn't chance it.
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      08-18-2009, 05:48 PM   #30
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I ran a 5mm and 10mm spacer many times on my 330Ci at the track and never had an issue. But I have heard the same thing. Basically, you just need to be sure you install them correctly. People think you can just slap 'em on but you need to clean the hubs BIG TIME. I also run a stud/nut setup which makes getting them on and off super easy if there is an issue...
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Last edited by JCz04Bimmer; 08-19-2009 at 12:50 AM..
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      08-18-2009, 06:23 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexstrafer View Post
I run (daily) NT-01s in 245-40-18/275-35-18 on 18x8.5/18x9.5 CSL reps with no clearance issues (I use all my available travel regularly).
THIS.
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      08-19-2009, 12:53 AM   #32
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This is entirely unrelated to tires but it is track-related. I just got back from putting on Ferodo DS3000's on the fronts and they are INSANE pads. Insane. Simply insane. I have 3 track days comin up this weekend so... I'll be having some fun.
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      08-19-2009, 01:12 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCz04Bimmer View Post
This is entirely unrelated to tires but it is track-related. I just got back from putting on Ferodo DS3000's on the fronts and they are INSANE pads. Insane. Simply insane. I have 3 track days comin up this weekend so... I'll be having some fun.
My freng, I may be doing the same....where did you purchase your Ferodos?
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      08-19-2009, 07:45 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4MCJJ View Post
My freng, I may be doing the same....where did you purchase your Ferodos?
The only place I get anything brake related...

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      08-19-2009, 12:27 PM   #35
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While we're on the topic of brake pads, if you guys haven't tried Cobalt XR3s, I HIGHLY recommend them...Eventhough I may be switching back to Hawk DTC-60s (just because I get a pretty massive discount on them).
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      08-19-2009, 12:45 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
While we're on the topic of brake pads, if you guys haven't tried Cobalt XR3s, I HIGHLY recommend them...Eventhough I may be switching back to Hawk DTC-60s (just because I get a pretty massive discount on them).
Very nice.

The nice thing about the Ferodo DS3000's is that they can be driven on the street with reasonable success. I still haven't bedded them in enough so I sound like a city bus when I'm coming to a nice and easy stop but when I clamp down for real it is literally like hitting a brick wall. Good modulation, too, so far as I can tell but I'll report more on that after this weekend at NJMP. But they stop to an acceptable degree even when not fully heated up which is refreshing for a track pad. I'm running the DS2500s in the rear.

When I first got on the road after installing them, I lightly stood on the brake while staying on the gas to heat them up a bit and then started the bedding-in process. This was at night and the first hard clamp sent sparks flying all over the place. INSANE. And really cool! I wish I had a video of it. Also a bit unnerving at first. I thought the pads were defective and I just shredded them to pieces. But after a few more stops the pads settled down with that craziness. First time I'd ever seen that happen.
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      12-04-2009, 05:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apexstrafer View Post
What would keep 285s from fitting in the rear? My 275s appear to have plenty of room through full travel.
Running 285/30/19's in the rear w/ no issues and my car sits very low on KW's. As long as you have correct offsets, this works great.

Alpine M was also running 285/30/19's on a 10" wheel with no rubbing.
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      01-11-2010, 05:54 PM   #38
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I have been so frustrated looking for slightly lighter than stock rims that look OK (to me) and have the (close to) right offsets to not necessitate (large) spacers and/or centering rings and are 18x8.5/18x9.5 that I am close to buying a set of SSR GT2-H rims (19x8.5 21 lbs) all around and running a square 245 setup.

Looking at this post it seems I may be better off stock than a square setup.

One question though - What are your thoughts on running a 255 width tire on a 8.5" wide rim?
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      06-21-2010, 09:09 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pal View Post
I have been so frustrated looking for slightly lighter than stock rims that look OK (to me) and have the (close to) right offsets to not necessitate (large) spacers and/or centering rings and are 18x8.5/18x9.5 that I am close to buying a set of SSR GT2-H rims (19x8.5 21 lbs) all around and running a square 245 setup.

Looking at this post it seems I may be better off stock than a square setup.

One question though - What are your thoughts on running a 255 width tire on a 8.5" wide rim?
Curious if you ever ran the square 245 setup.

I have some stock Z4M rims coming next week as my AutoX/Track rims. I have a set of 1/2 used up 245/45 r18 Z1 star specs in my garage from my previous car I used to AutoX. Since I did not get my full money's worth from the tires I have considered mounting these tires on the rims to start with until they are used up. Another option is to run the 245 star specs up front and use the used stock contis (255) that are coming on the wheels for the rear. All of this to avoid purchasing brand new star specs for a while. I am a little concerned that te 245's will be too small in back but I assume it would greatly reduce the understeer - maybe way too much!

Any comments? Suspension is stock, will pull alignment pins to get as much negative front camber as I can.
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      06-22-2010, 11:43 PM   #40
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I'm running E46 M3 Style 67 wheels (8X18ET47 front and 9X18ET26 rear) and recently mounted TOYO R888 tires (245/40-18 front and 255/35-18 rear) with 10mm spacers up front to clear the TCK front coil over struts.
With -3.5 degrees of camber up front this combo is dead nuts on for driving school applications.
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      06-23-2010, 10:16 PM   #41
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Thanks for the info, -3.5 in front, wow! You are about as close to a square setup as you can get. I would imagine the camber in front helps a ton over stock?
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      06-25-2010, 05:26 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbh View Post
Thanks for the info, -3.5 in front, wow! You are about as close to a square setup as you can get. I would imagine the camber in front helps a ton over stock?

Not only does the camber dial out any understeer it also promotes better tire wear particularly in the front.
I played with R888 tire pressures yesterday at Pacific Raceways and found the optimum HOT presures to be 44 front and 42 rear. That equates to around 34 front and 32 rear COLD.
If you're looking for TOYO tires try Tires Direct http://www.tiresdirect.net/index.cfm prior to the end of June for some great pricing. My 245/40-18 and 255/35-18 combo can be had for $820 including shipping to Seattle.
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      06-25-2010, 11:02 PM   #43
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^^proper camber will also depend on stiffness of suspension. What spring rates and swaybars on the car?
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      08-01-2010, 07:21 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmillet View Post
Not only does the camber dial out any understeer it also promotes better tire wear particularly in the front.
I played with R888 tire pressures yesterday at Pacific Raceways and found the optimum HOT presures to be 44 front and 42 rear. That equates to around 34 front and 32 rear COLD.
If you're looking for TOYO tires try Tires Direct http://www.tiresdirect.net/index.cfm prior to the end of June for some great pricing. My 245/40-18 and 255/35-18 combo can be had for $820 including shipping to Seattle.
My E46 M3 track car had a very stiff suspension with very little body roll and was lightened to about 3200 lbs, so other than having a longer wheelbase it was similar to the Z4M. I also found that 3.5 degrees negative camber in front gave the best tire wear and the most even tire temperatures across the whole tread surface (outside, middle, and inside). I have read that braking performance can be reduced with a lot of front negative camber, but I did not have any problem with that.
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