Vanne's Coupe Build Thread.. Updated 16/05/17

[Vanne]

Thanks Micheal, I'll probably do that using the dash, I would have liked to have it pre connected , but looks like your right, the OEM oil light is way too little too late.. will need to have a look at that.. could probably use the programible dash lights to do that too..

[Vanne]

Finalizing some stuff today. Met with the painter, talked over a few things and requirements. No sure yet if I'll go with this guy, he's good, but bloody expensive..

Put the bottom alu crash plate on, it's part of the rigidity of the car. And then tried to fit on the nose ..

Yay guess what, another fuck up.. nose doesn't fit any more as the heat exchange unit (intercooler in hoon terminology) piping comes down about a inch and a half lower than the sway bar, so spent today moving that fucker up an inch so the nose can fit on .

I'll show you what I mean...



And then after I sorted that I had some luck with the nose..




And



Didn't snap a pic, but she's on properly now. Wheel is perfectly centered, so that's lucky. I do however have to cut some more of the splash guard as that still rubs on full lock.

(Not pictured is me swearing like a sailor when I found out I had to cut part of the sway bar mount, and also not pictured is me swearing like a Sydney sider trying to force the nose mount into place as the bolt is about 4mm to long for the offset of the nose. Fits, but fuck it's gonna be hard to get that off.. I'll cut the 4mm off it when I pull the nose off tomorrow.

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by Vanne

Finalizing some stuff today. Met with the painter, talked over a few things and requirements. No sure yet if I'll go with this guy, he's good, but bloody expensive..

Put the bottom alu crash plate on, it's part of the rigidity of the car. And then tried to fit on the nose ..

Yay guess what, another fuck up.. nose doesn't fit any more as the heat exchange unit (intercooler in hoon terminology) piping comes down about a inch and a half lower than the sway bar, so spent today moving that fucker up an inch so the nose can fit on .

I'll show you what I mean...

Attachment 2770505

And then after I sorted that I had some luck with the nose..


Attachment 2770506

And

Attachment 2770507

Didn't snap a pic, but she's on properly now. Wheel is perfectly centered, so that's lucky. I do however have to cut some more of the splash guard as that still rubs on full lock.

(Not pictured is me swearing like a sailor when I found out I had to cut part of the sway bar mount, and also not pictured is me swearing like a Sydney sider trying to force the nose mount into place as the bolt is about 4mm to long for the offset of the nose. Fits, but fuck it's gonna be hard to get that off.. I'll cut the 4mm off it when I pull the nose off tomorrow.

The joys of building a car Vanne.

[racerbruce]

YAY Vanne!
The Beast is one step closer to on-track adrenaline....my previous motocross days wishes you a WFO experience

[wdb]

Yes the aluminum plate is a structural member of the vehicle. The fixing bolts are 'one-time use' (although you can definitely get away with two and possibly three) and their torque spec is the stuff of sore shoulders.

I'll step off my preacher's box now. Glad you got it sorted.

[Vanne]

what did you torque them to, just so i know to check it next time at the shed..

[Michael9218]

59nm then 90 degrees of rotation.

http://sawashie.free.fr/M3/TorqueSpe...SPECS%20LR.pdf

I’ve reused mine like 15 times and tighten with a 15” breaker bar. Probably 100 ft/lbs. I don’t see why they are single use.

[Vanne]

Thanks guys, I guess I'll get there somewhere between Crissy and New year's.

Awesome doco that Micheal. Thanks.

[Vanne]

Well even though it probably doesn’t sound like much, but yesterday I payed the final bill at the workshop. We’ve gone about as far as we can go there and the next 3 stages will be done at various other shops and at home. Paying that bill sure did feel good, but it will hurt for a little bit, but glad that’s finalized as around the last 6 months or so, I didn’t really have a clue as to what was owing.. and I hate working like that.. absolutely hate it as you gotta know what your up for…

anyways, the final bill was a sh!t load over budget (roughly where I thought it should roughly be) so started yelling a tad.. lolol.. turns out the accountant made a huge error in the parts list.. (which I brought all myself the last 6 months) so after sorting that, I payed my due and both parties were happy.. well at least as so far as the bill goes. There are still a few bits and pieces to tidy up on the car before it goes to the exhaust shop.

once the fart cans/or straight through 3 inch into 4 inch is attached, it will be ready for the paint shop.
Hopefully next week at the exhaust shop.

I still have to sort the steering stops as I’ve cut as much as possible from the guards, but it still interferes, so I’ll need to cut a pipe with some rubber bungs and slide them over the steering rod. Estimating it’ll miss out on full lock by about 20 percent.

I can’t get the oil dumbass ox light to work from the oil light on the dash, 2 reasons, the oil px light on the dash runs at 7volt, my dumbass light runs at 12v, and even though that’s easy to fix, the oil px light on the dash will come on way too late. Light needs to turn on when there is no pressure..

So I’ll use one of the channels from the Racepak for that. (Thanks for the heads up Micheal)
The aem boost gauge is in an wired up, as is the rear diff temp sensor. (It’s all hanging about on the floor as the dash isn’t in the car as I’ll be waiting for paint to be done before installing the dash.. you know how over spray goes..

A bunch of things left to do.. seems like the fucking list is never ending..

the nose cone fits on perfect now, aside from the right hand upper lip, it’s off by a frickkin 13mm so I’ll need to re-drill the mount and tap in a thread. That stuff needs to fit perfect as I’ve calculated that part of the rigidity of the nose cone depends on those mounts being aligned perfect.. (well as close to perfect as I can get it , we’re talking +- a mill or so)

need to find another wheel cap as one has gone walk about..

Still need to hose up the catch can

and then of course still need to tidy up the dme box.


Still need to fix the brake pedal ratio.. (that’s a biggie)

[racerbruce]

Getting closer!
It's a true hurry up and wait scenario....but actual seat time in The Beast is eminent!

[Vanne]

went to the shop today and spent a good few hours sorting a few things out, one of them being Steering rack stops. Due to the wide front wheels, and very low ride, at full lock the inner rear of the front tires touch the outer wheel well at the bottom. Ive absolutely ground off as much as i can, so the next step was to limit the steering arm travel. There are a couple of ways to do this, one of them is wleding in place some thick washers, but Cammo helped me with another idea. I took it from there and ran with it.

here are a few pics..







That kinda worked out perfect.. Thanks again Cammo

Took a pic of the car as its really low.. as in really... theres about 11 degrees of rake there, so the nose cone will be pretty darn low.



and of course the mess of electrics i still need to sort out. That switch you can see controls the new Spal thermo fan, its sucks hard!


the last pic is showing the placement of the Mishimoto catch can, not yet hooked up.

[Vanne]

Had a huge day at the shop today.. nose is on!!!

Very stoked.. pretty proud of all the work that has gone into it so far. And just in case your wondering, it's a lot ..




Then went and did some burnouts. Hahaha

[racerbruce]

The Beast lives....

So great to see the video - another step closer to massive G's

[Vanne]

Heading to the shed tomorrow to sort the brake pedal ratio. Boosted brakes run about 4, unboosted should be around 6. will see when i pull it out and re-drill the arm. guestimating the new hole needs to go up by about 13mm. Making sure the master cylinder pushrod angle does not exceed 5 degrees while setting up the ratio. divide A by B to get your ratio.

diagram below:

[Vanne]

Stock brake boosted z4m has a really low brake ratio.. didn't see that coming..
3.55.. normally around 4.2



We ended up at 5.2 brake ratio. Pretty choofed... Feels a shit load better already , but have t driven it yet..


The original hole was at 90mm and I redrilled/welded the hole at 62mm

[racerbruce]

Originally Posted by Vanne

Stock brake boosted z4m has a really low brake ratio.. didn't see that coming..
3.55.. normally around 4.2

Attachment 2803135

We ended up at 5.2 brake ratio. Pretty choofed... Feels a shit load better already , but have t driven it yet..

Attachment 2803136
The original hole was at 90mm and I redrilled/welded the hole at 62mm

Attachment 2803137

Vanne -
The final photo w/the Vernier Caliper is missing a critical element....where's the pic of the evening beverage to "assist" you in the math equation??

[Vanne]

Haha, yep agreed, but that's probably due to this pic being taken at 10am in the morning. Lololol. Fingers crossed, testing the brakes today..

[F360C]

Originally Posted by Vanne

Stock brake boosted z4m has a really low brake ratio.. didn't see that coming..
3.55.. normally around 4.2

Attachment 2803135

We ended up at 5.2 brake ratio. Pretty choofed... Feels a shit load better already , but have t driven it yet..

Attachment 2803136
The original hole was at 90mm and I redrilled/welded the hole at 62mm

Attachment 2803137

Impressive work!

What tire sizes are you gonna end up running on this beast?

[Steeler]

Looking good Vanne

I particularly like the arc starts on the cast vise

[Vanne]

Originally Posted by F360C

Impressive work!

What tire sizes are you gonna end up running on this beast?

After I burn through these, I'll run some slicks with a proper sidewall.

[Vanne]

Originally Posted by dbarton62

Looking good Vanne

I particularly like the arc starts on the cast vise

Hahaha lolol.. yeah that's not my vice. But pretty impressive job by the bloke who did it.

[Vanne]

Bit of a set back...

Mixed report this one. spent the whole day at the shop, cleaning up some of the electrics wires and zip tied the gauges to the dash frame... then tidied up the rear wing a bit. then tried to start the car, batt completely dead.. had to start it as i needed to test the brakes...

used a jump starter battery to start the car.. and then fried the boost gauge... fuck!!! thats not good, not sure if it shorted out somehow due to the spike jump starter, or just something shorted itself out.. eitherway, that burned capacitor smell hung around for a bit... just ordered a new one. bloody expensive AEM gauges.. (luckily Alex is sending me a box of stuff and hopefully he can chuck the new boost gauge in there too)

then took the car for a drive... absolutely love it, was only a quick hoon up and down the steet in front of the shop, as cops are everywhere, and dont want to get my car impounded..

brakes work much much better.. its now possible to lock them up.. still a bit of spongy-ness in there, so ill bleed them tomorrow or the next day with the abs valves open...

car getting exhaust fitted atm... fingers crossed that goes ok