beta's Modification Journal

[Jroc]

Fantastic write up!

[beta]

Originally Posted by Vanne

I am having this done by the shop atm, anything you can tell me to look for to make sure they have done a good job? Obviously I cannot be there to supervise to make sure they torque all the bolts properly. But any tell tale signs? How many shims would roughly need replacing? I guess that would depend on how far it was out... Lol. But anything you can tell me to look for or ask them about how it went?

I'm not sure you could really tell. As for number of shims it varies a lot, I've seen people have to replace every shim on their car. For me on my exhaust side I only needed 2 shims, intake side 4. So only 6 shims out of 24, and they were only off 0.01.

Originally Posted by Vanne

Cheers and thanks, waiting patiently on the completion of the DIY

And it's finally done! Corrections, clarifications or additions are encouraged.

Originally Posted by Jroc

Fantastic write up!

Thanks! I hope it helps someone.

[Beedub]

hi beta, im about to get into the AUX install as im sick of CDs when i have an iphone full of albums, any further tips on the install of this piece?? i cant for the life of me workout how to get the vents out... lol

in terms of merging the pins, how am i extracting the from the block connecter, do they simply pull out?? im great at the mechanics side of things but electrics.... i SUCK!! lol

[beta]

Originally Posted by Beedub

hi beta, im about to get into the AUX install as im sick of CDs when i have an iphone full of albums, any further tips on the install of this piece?? i cant for the life of me workout how to get the vents out... lol

The vent definitely took some finesse. I used those soldering sticks I posted about and wedged them in at the 4 clips (and left them in), that way all 4 clips were depressed and I could just pull the vent out. You could probably use some slightly modified popsicle sticks or something like that. Having the right tools definitely makes it easy.

Originally Posted by Beedub

in terms of merging the pins, how am i extracting the from the block connecter, do they simply pull out?? im great at the mechanics side of things but electrics.... i SUCK!! lol

They are shaped like hooks. You need to press on the metal contacts on the block side and they'll release allowing you to pull them out.

[Z@T]

Great thread!

Thank you!!

[tom_48]

Originally Posted by I M LEGEND

How are the Akebono pads? Same feel as OEM? Any noise?

Akebonos are amazing!

Just got them on mine too! Back and front!

[beta]

Wheels are Rays TE37SL in 18x8.5 front, 18x9.5 rear in pressed graphite. The quality and workmanship of these wheels is pretty amazing, they took very little weight to balance.

Tires are Michelin PSS 245/275.

The studs are Bimmerworld Premium Race Bulletnose studs. The lugs are Muteki SR48.

Since the wheels don't take center caps (bonus IMO, too many BMW logos on the car as it is), I got new dust shields painted to match for the front, and the rears were scrubbed and painted.

I'm really happy with how the car came out with these wheels, and you can definitely feel the weight difference between these and stock.

I have the stickers (red) in case I decide to put them on the wheels, but I think I prefer the cleaner look. I really need to delete the orange reflectors...

[Finnegan]

Very nice!

[Vanne]

Sweet!! One Q though? Looks like it would take a centre cap?? Or not? Looks can be deceiving..
Looks like a beaut set of rims though : )

[Beedub]

awesome!! more pics please!!!

[flipm3]

The Super Laps look PERFECT on your car and color!

I have the same Bimmerworld studs and they are a PITA in the install with their given instructions.

I bet the car feels great with the lighter wheels.

[GriffBrew]

Wheels look great. I never thought of painting the little dust caps so I could leave off the center caps. What paint did you use? Really, I just wonder if it needs to be higher temp paint.

[inTgr8r]

Nicely done, the SLs look great.
I like your painted dust cap idea .

[jdoublehcubed]

Nice valve adjustment write up. I've never seen anyone take the fan out like that, I usually jack the car and crank it from the bottom. Can you post a pic showing where the pin is that frees the fan?

One possible tip on your photos. It looks like you were shooting in Aperture priority around f/2.8 to f/4. Its you crank the aperture down to like f/11 you'll get a lot more of the depth of field in focus, which I think would be preferable when you're using the photos to document something like this.

[ZStig]

another sepang bronze on re-37s eh?

[beta]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Very nice!

Thanks Finnegan! also thanks for your help on fitment/tire/offset questions.

Originally Posted by Vanne

Sweet!! One Q though? Looks like it would take a centre cap?? Or not? Looks can be deceiving..
Looks like a beaut set of rims though : )

The regular TE37s do take a center cap, but these TE37SLs the centers are machined to save weight so they don't take one.

Originally Posted by Beedub

awesome!! more pics please!!!

I'm detailing her sometime in the next week (work allowing), I'll try to find a nice place to take more pictures after I do. Thanks!

Originally Posted by flipm3

The Super Laps look PERFECT on your car and color!

I have the same Bimmerworld studs and they are a PITA in the install with their given instructions.

I bet the car feels great with the lighter wheels.

Thanks! I was a little worried about the color being so similar yet slightly different, but I'm really happy with how they turned out.

The studs were a PITA to install. For those that don't know, you have to double-nut each one since they don't have an allen key hole in the front.

You are right, the car does feel great. I didn't think the difference would be as noticeable, but the whole car feels lighter.

Originally Posted by GriffBrew

Wheels look great. I never thought of painting the little dust caps so I could leave off the center caps. What paint did you use? Really, I just wonder if it needs to be higher temp paint.

Just regular paint, the wheel hubs shouldn't ever get that hot.

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

Nicely done, the SLs look great.
I like your painted dust cap idea .

Thanks intgr8r! As much as I'd like to take credit for the idea, my shop was the one that came up with it. The owner has great attention to detail and they know that I always want the best. You can see their shop race-car (covered) in the background of my pictures, it's a work of art.

Originally Posted by jdoublehcubed

Nice valve adjustment write up. I've never seen anyone take the fan out like that, I usually jack the car and crank it from the bottom. Can you post a pic showing where the pin is that frees the fan?

One possible tip on your photos. It looks like you were shooting in Aperture priority around f/2.8 to f/4. Its you crank the aperture down to like f/11 you'll get a lot more of the depth of field in focus, which I think would be preferable when you're using the photos to document something like this.

Thanks! No need to jack with this procedure. I'll see if I can get a picture of the pin and update my thread. @gferil is the one that showed me how to take out the fan.

As for the pictures, my friend Eric took them and he does really great work so I let him do his thing. I think you are right, less artistic photos would've been more helpful, but at the same time the photos look great

Originally Posted by ZStig

another sepang bronze on re-37s eh?

Gotta represent the 99 roadsters left

[GriffBrew]

It seems those little dust caps are front only. Realoem doesn't show them on the rears. Did you add them? If so, how?

[StickMon]

Pin = expanding rivet? You can't miss it. #7.
Take out screw #4 and rivet #7, disconnect 2 connectors, and the fan lifts right out.
You just have to weasel it past the lower radiator hose and the plastic expansion line.

[beta]

Originally Posted by GriffBrew

It seems those little dust caps are front only. Realoem doesn't show them on the rears. Did you add them? If so, how?

The rears were just scrubbed and painted. Use a tube to mask so that the paint only gets on the very center of the hub.

[GriffBrew]

Originally Posted by beta

The rears were just scrubbed and painted. Use a tube to mask so that the paint only gets on the very center of the hub.

Attachment 905246

Thanks. I'm definitely stealing this idea from you! I reluctantly put bmw caps on my ARC-8's. I tried no caps, but it looked to unfinished. This worth a try at least.

[jdoublehcubed]

Originally Posted by Vanne

I am having this done by the shop atm, anything you can tell me to look for to make sure they have done a good job? Obviously I cannot be there to supervise to make sure they torque all the bolts properly. But any tell tale signs? How many shims would roughly need replacing? I guess that would depend on how far it was out... Lol. But anything you can tell me to look for or ask them about how it went?

Cheers and thanks, waiting patiently on the completion of the DIY

I am also having new plugs installed while they are there. : ) easier access I would think.

Absolutely no way to tell without actually rechecking the shims.

This is definitely not the job where you take your car to a new shop and see how they do. You need to trust them 100%, because a lazy shop could easily drop a shim in and not bother to tell you.

[beta]

My shifter started feeling loose and rotating a bit. When I removed it, I noticed that the plastic was cracked. Seeing as it was time for a new shifter, figured I'd upgrade.

I followed these instructions, with the only difference is that I did use a bit of glue to keep it all together.

I recommend you start with the smaller edge (bottom side), notice I poked some holes in the leather for the studs.



I repeated it with the top, then did the sides. This way it all lines up perfectly when done. Here I'm about 90% done, just need a little cleanup and more glue and clamps.



Final result.