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SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS! |
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03-11-2013, 08:09 PM | #23 |
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Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing:
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03-11-2013, 08:15 PM | #24 |
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03-11-2013, 08:21 PM | #25 |
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Yup...
I think there must be a mistake on the online price.
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03-11-2013, 08:22 PM | #26 |
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I found another post that said you have to unfasten a hood release cable bracket, then there is room.
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03-16-2013, 02:03 PM | #27 |
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I'm getting ready to order parts. I think in addition to what I posted here I'm missing the 4 copper crush washers that go on either side of the oil lines. In the video he also replaces the banjo bolts.
I'm also considering just getting a static 10Nm click wrench. I don't think there's any other torque needed. I'm going to need feeler gages, a micrometer and metric wrenches. Please let me know if I need any other tools as my toolkit is pretty sparse.
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03-16-2013, 02:38 PM | #28 | |
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I may have missed a post elsewhere, but I expect you're doing the valve adjustment at the same time? I have the shim kit and tool (pretty sure Chun or Lon do as well, so we should have a good selection of shims). Maybe there's a less invasive way to do this (don't have time to view the videos and other resources now), but Chun had to remove/disconnect the steering column, steering rack, sway bar, reinforcement plate, subframe, engine mounts, FCABs, and headlight auto leveler. The subframe and a few other things have one time use bolts that require replacement, torque to spec, and angle torque. |
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03-16-2013, 03:59 PM | #29 | |
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He's a busy guy so hit him up early if you want any hopes of scheduling a time to do your valves, check/upgrade cam bolts, and check/upgrade exhaust hub. |
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03-16-2013, 05:16 PM | #31 | |||
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About the micro-torque wrench. Have the same issue, my torque wrench is 25-135Nm (roughly 20ft/lb to 125ft/lb). I don't want to get a spring click torque wrench because those require re-adjustment periodically. Which leaves me with a dial wrench or a fixed torque wrench. The dial wrench will be more versatile but hard to look at in tight spaces. I did find a model that lights up when you reach a desired torque. I'm leaning to a fixed head wrench. I only remember hearing 10Nm in the video, but I'll watch it again. If there's only a few set torque numbers, a fixed torque wrench with a few calibrated heads might be good for the <20Nm uses. Quote:
Quote:
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03-16-2013, 06:22 PM | #33 |
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Thanks Rob, looks like it's also too high for 10Nm.
I got TIS printing to pdf! The preliminary necessary tasks only mention fan + things you'd do for valve adjustment. It's going to be great to have extra hands, we can take a ton of pictures and make a really good DIY for this. Really looking forward to it.
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03-16-2013, 06:35 PM | #34 |
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Odd that they don't say much about timing.
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03-16-2013, 10:56 PM | #35 |
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I have more valve adjustment information here: http://www.shipkiller.com/S54_Valve_Adjustment.html
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03-17-2013, 03:17 PM | #37 | |
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Quote:
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03-28-2013, 10:44 PM | #38 |
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Parts came in the mail today. The timing tool is real heavy, I got the second pin for it too to make things easier.
Just waiting on the exhaust hub to get modified and sent back and I'll set up a day for exhaust-hub-fest Still don't know what I'm going to do for the 10Nm torque tool.
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03-29-2013, 08:20 AM | #39 |
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Second pin?
Are the pins separate part numbers from the tool?
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03-29-2013, 09:07 AM | #40 |
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03-29-2013, 09:46 AM | #41 | |
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I'm planning to get it as well, but I have so much on my plate right now, I think it will have to wait until next year.
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03-29-2013, 10:29 AM | #42 |
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03-29-2013, 12:44 PM | #43 |
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Comes with one pin and you're supposed to remove it and move it to the other side. See the picture that ship linked at the top of page 2 of this thread.
You can buy a second pin, then you can just leave both in. I saw it in a few of the DIYs and thought it was a good idea. Also, my hub is done! getting shipped soon.
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03-29-2013, 12:51 PM | #44 |
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Thanks Great info... That makes a lot of sense.
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