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05-05-2009, 10:04 PM | #23 |
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i find that the throttle response is not 100% consistent. the electronics must sense some subtle not-so-obvious difference and not allow the throttle to come up the same every single time. other instructors/drivers have made this comment when driving my car for a session or two.
Also, if you try to rev it once and you don't get enough throttle blip...good luck trying to get it to blip right away again without having to mash it down more than you want to (assuming you even have enough time to attempt another blip). it most often refuses to sufficiently respond to the additional blip. I have found that waiting until the last possible moment to press the clutch pedal and initiating the blip/shift helps keep the tranny and engine at similar enough speeds to make the blip/shift smoother. when i get early to the clutch it can cause problems.
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05-06-2009, 12:44 PM | #24 |
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Typical of ALL newer BMWs with electronic drive-by-wire. Actually the MZ4 Coupe has the most consistent throttle response of all the drive-by-wire BMWs built to date.
You should drive an E9X and see what "inconsistent" throttle feels like. MASSIVE throttle delay. |
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02-22-2010, 02:28 AM | #26 | |
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This is me driving below. Just view the first ten seconds. Unless you want to see us monkeying around on the track.
Found that using the ball of my heel works very well. All in all, practice, practice, practice. I never got it right and always blamed the car, until one of my friends who's a better driver could nail 4-3-2 on my car very very smoothly. Only THEN i started to get it right. Throttle is always very precise. [u2b]<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/au_1HFpUJRo&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/au_1HFpUJRo&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>[/u2b] Quote:
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02-22-2010, 07:50 AM | #27 |
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You should have your clutch depressed at the moment of braking. If you don't release the engine from the drivetrain you not only be braking to reduce the motion of the car but also your engine as well. Some might think that "engine braking" would help the car decclerate faster but it does the exact opposite.
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02-22-2010, 08:46 AM | #28 |
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I used the alternative method as well, practice every day on my commute to work, trips to the grocery store, etc. It's quite funny how many people will try to race you thinking you're "reving" at them but I just ignore it. I've also found it a lot easier to learn with sport mode off, but have things figured out where I can also manage with it on now as well.
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02-24-2010, 02:55 PM | #29 | |
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what you say is true, of course, since the engine just adds to the momentum (and inertia) of the moving car while in gear. i'd guess it would be harder (for me) to properly rev-match if the rpms are allowed to fall all the way to idle by disengaging the clutch as soon as the brakes are applied. |
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02-24-2010, 03:33 PM | #30 | ||
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Friction and pumping > inertia in this case, especially in an 11.5:1 engine.
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02-25-2010, 12:21 AM | #31 | |
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02-25-2010, 09:40 AM | #32 |
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I've always felt that the car wants to rotate more when I end up braking at really low revs or with the clutch in.
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02-25-2010, 03:10 PM | #33 |
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02-25-2010, 04:01 PM | #34 | |
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02-26-2010, 12:59 AM | #35 |
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Do I understand you are depressing the clutch in the corner in order to rotate the car? I use trailing-throttle-oversteer to rotate through corners and have tuned the suspension in order to accomplish this. The only time I am on the clutch is changing gears. Balancing the car through the corner modulating the throttle is my driving style. One of many fundamentals I was taught by a pro race driver was to put the car into the proper gear BEFORE entering a corner--this includes clutch depression. I'm not saying what you are doing is necessarily wrong, just not what I learned and not my style. I would think using trailing-throttle oversteer would rotate the car more than simply depressing the clutch.
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02-26-2010, 01:26 AM | #36 | |
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Same idea as if you go through a corner that you could be in 2nd gear for in 3rd, you will push like crazy because the weight isn't being put on the front wheels from the engine braking.
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02-26-2010, 01:31 AM | #37 | |
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I agree That is how I do as well, and work's perfectly for me. I start using that after driving a oldsmobile for sometime, and that car was horrible, so using this method I always had way more control. please don't ask me what I was doing driving a oldsmobile |
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02-26-2010, 01:35 AM | #38 | |
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(off topic: Illinois sucks about people to work on race or sport cars) |
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02-26-2010, 01:41 AM | #39 | |
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(I believe he does that as well) I do, using the brakes will shift the weight to the front, and that is the moment that shifting to a lower gear and giving gas you gain control of the car, and with some oversteer the turn is complete. but this need to be a smooth. |
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03-01-2010, 11:46 AM | #40 | |
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03-01-2010, 11:47 AM | #41 | |
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If someone is still going to school ask your physics teacher. Also don't forget that "engine braking" will put more stress on your engine.
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03-01-2010, 12:18 PM | #42 | ||
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Watch some races....they dont sit on the clutch when they brake in corners, they use the engine/brakes.
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03-01-2010, 04:10 PM | #43 |
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This kids a joke....
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03-01-2010, 04:37 PM | #44 |
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Most current race cars use sequential dog-gear style transmissions which only hammer O-cha's point further. The clutch is used to get the car moving, but between gear shifts up and down only a momentary release of the gas is required to prevent torque transfer from gear to gear. The engine remains loaded except for a brief second for gear changes.
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