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05-29-2013, 07:44 AM | #309 |
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No NVH, and they make shifting a dream. I would do this before AS SSK for shifting problems. I have both, so I can't tell you which is better. Both definitely make shifting crisp and precise.
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05-29-2013, 03:11 PM | #310 |
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I'm surprised more people haven't done this mod, it's one of my top 3.
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05-29-2013, 03:37 PM | #311 |
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^WHS
I ranks right up there for sure.
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05-30-2013, 07:49 PM | #313 |
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05-31-2013, 12:19 PM | #315 |
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After owning the car for 3+ years, I finally got my act together and removed the CDV and changed tranny fluid to Redline. What a drastic change so far! Next step is Rogue tranny mounts and these puppies will be ordered later this summer.
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05-31-2013, 02:50 PM | #317 |
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Do the engine mounts before the tranny mounts. Transmission mounts make a tiny difference, engine mounts transform the car. Just my 2c.
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05-31-2013, 03:08 PM | #318 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I changed my tranny mount first but this caused my engine mount bracket bolt cracked. You can if you know your bolts are replaced. If it hasn't been replace, you can replace it when you install engine mount. |
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05-31-2013, 03:46 PM | #319 | ||
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Quote:
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05-31-2013, 07:58 PM | #320 | |
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That's what the VB guys said about our tranny mounts (taken from post #84). So I would definitely do the motor mounts first and forgo the transmission mounts for now. Almost wishing I hadn't thrown away my stock mounts... |
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05-31-2013, 08:09 PM | #321 | |
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In my experience (s14), it is very important to do engine and tranny mounts together. The engine is what does the most moving, which is transferred to the tranny. |
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05-31-2013, 11:43 PM | #323 | |
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06-01-2013, 01:24 AM | #324 | |
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You should really read the thread.
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Read finnegan's transmission thread. Then come back here and read this thread. Notice that every person that installed these engine mounts has very enthusiastically recommended them.
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06-01-2013, 08:45 AM | #325 |
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[QUOTE=RobMCoupe;14085325]I assume you talking about engine mount brackets. No, you just loosen the engine mount bracket bolts. The allows you to wiggle the engine mount out.
I'm referring to the big aluminum plate under the engine. Part #1 in this pic: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...57&hg=51&fg=80 Does that have to come off? |
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06-01-2013, 09:39 AM | #326 | |
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[QUOTE=DanFromTucson;14088542]
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The underside nut is accessible beside the plate & through the control arm. You will need socket extensions and a universal joint.
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11-25-2013, 10:29 AM | #327 |
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Vibra Tech install notes:
Got my Vibra Tech's installed over the weekend. Thought I'd share a few things I did to make the job a bit easier. First, I made a jig for jacking up the engine. Just a piece of 2x4 with a 3/8" deep half circle cut out to accommodate the oil screen on the bottom of the oil pan. This made for a more distributed weight across the bottom of the pan.
Second, I was frustrated with how the engine doesn't jack up evenly. I could get enough out of the bottle jack to do the drivers side, but not enough to get the passenger side mount. What I did was to use a common cargo strap over the driver side engine mount, limiting its movement. This then transferred the "up" to the passenger side, allowing me to do that motor mount quite easily Note - be sure to loosen or remove your strut brace before jacking up the engine :-) p.s. sorry for the picts being out of order, but you get the idea.
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11-26-2013, 10:13 AM | #328 |
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Just a thought...
Installing one road going mount on the right side and a competition unit on the left side of the engine. The engine mount positions are different. One is cantilevered more than the other. One bears the weight of the engine more directly (more idle characteristics) the other mount controls torque (drivetrain movements). Why should two mounts doing different jobs have the same durometer? Having two different spring rate/damping characteristics may even damp a broader spectrum of vibration. At a minimum it should split the difference in NVH between sets. Hybrid Vibra Mount conversion would look cool in you mod list too. |
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11-26-2013, 10:21 AM | #329 |
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Go for it!
I have the Competition mounts and get some added NVH just at idle. It only happens at a very narrow rpm range and not all the time. Would be interested to see if a hybrid setup would be the best of both worlds!
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11-26-2013, 11:01 AM | #330 |
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also have the comp units.... after trying both, the road units are more than optimal.... the race units are great if your a track monster and want the least engine movment possible....
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