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      11-22-2010, 01:56 PM   #1
Beedub
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z4m ess s/c software, how does it work?

hi guys, one of my friends is looking into a s/c for his z4m coupe, he asked me a question that i couldnt answer, so maybe someone on here will know, basically, Ess sends a Generic map for the 445 kit to their approved installers, ess advise this map is not changed from their settings, im asked how the software be perfect for EVERY s/c'd z4m as every car is slightly different right? so how does this generic map ensure perfect air/fuel ratio's, how does it ensure no lean or rich situations are encountered and more importantly can it deal with this situations and adjust as per needed? it was always stressed to me that a live mapped car is always best to ensure a car runs at its best, so i wondered how ESS's generic 445 software allows perfect tuning as ess claim, that was basically the question asked, i genuinely couldnt answer it, i did email ESS but i dont think their understanding what im asking.
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      11-22-2010, 02:31 PM   #2
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You are right in that a car that's tuned "live" with dyno pulls and ECU tweaking done on the spot is the absolute best way to tune any given car. However, this takes a lot of time and know-how, so these mail-order tunes are based off of dynoed cars they've previously tested, and what you get through the mail is a best approximation in terms of performance AND longevity.
Of course, I'm speaking out of plain logic. It only makes sense that these tuning companies give you the best possible tune WITHOUT any adverse effects to any customer's car(s). Which means that even though they may have based the mail-order tune off of a specific car, they would de-tune it for all other cars that aren't tuned "live" and in person.

As for the ECU being smart, and its ability to adapt, I can't say 100% for certain on any given tune, but I think it has at least a tiny bit of credibility. When I first got my "mail-order" tune with Active Autowerk, either it was the fact that I did not want to overhype it, and was very scrutinizing when feeling for gains through the butt dyno, orrr it was the fact that my ECU hadn't quite adapted yet; and therefore I hadn't felt anything dramatically different. However, after resetting the ECU (by disconnecting the battery) and resetting the throttle adaptation (via the key trick), along with running the car at a track day, I began to feel a much more noticeable difference. Then after the track day when I was certain that the ECU had had plenty of time to adapt itself, I went on to do an "after" dyno so that I could compare with my baseline "before" dyno. The dyno showed a significant amount of change from stock, primarily with the torque curve falling later in the rev band and also less dramatically; which yielded higher peak hp.

Last edited by mfanatic325; 11-22-2010 at 02:40 PM..
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      11-22-2010, 03:13 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfanatic325 View Post
You are right in that a car that's tuned "live" with dyno pulls and ECU tweaking done on the spot is the absolute best way to tune any given car. However, this takes a lot of time and know-how, so these mail-order tunes are based off of dynoed cars they've previously tested, and what you get through the mail is a best approximation in terms of performance AND longevity.
Of course, I'm speaking out of plain logic. It only makes sense that these tuning companies give you the best possible tune WITHOUT any adverse effects to any customer's car(s). Which means that even though they may have based the mail-order tune off of a specific car, they would de-tune it for all other cars that aren't tuned "live" and in person.

As for the ECU being smart, and its ability to adapt, I can't say 100% for certain on any given tune, but I think it has at least a tiny bit of credibility. When I first got my "mail-order" tune with Active Autowerk, either it was the fact that I did not want to overhype it, and was very scrutinizing when feeling for gains through the butt dyno, orrr it was the fact that my ECU hadn't quite adapted yet; and therefore I hadn't felt anything dramatically different. However, after resetting the ECU (by disconnecting the battery) and resetting the throttle adaptation (via the key trick), along with running the car at a track day, I began to feel a much more noticeable difference. Then after the track day when I was certain that the ECU had had plenty of time to adapt itself, I went on to do an "after" dyno so that I could compare with my baseline "before" dyno. The dyno showed a significant amount of change from stock, primarily with the torque curve falling later in the rev band and also less dramatically; which yielded higher peak hp.
Could you explain more about this "key trick" or link to info on how to do it?
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      11-22-2010, 03:30 PM   #4
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just turn the key to on on position for at least 10 sec(right before the ignnition starts the car) and turn off for 10 sec and start the car
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      11-22-2010, 04:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krnnerdboy View Post
just turn the key to on on position for at least 10 sec(right before the ignnition starts the car) and turn off for 10 sec and start the car
It works. I can tell a difference when resetting mine even with a stock ecu.
Gets your car out of granny mode. Fir instance you do a lot of highway or traffic driving.
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      11-22-2010, 04:47 PM   #6
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Yup, exactly as stated:
1) With car already warm (so that u can drive off and immediately pound on the throttle afterwards and feel the difference =P )
2) Turn key to position 2 for approximately ten seconds (position 3 = firing up the car)
3) Turn key to position 0 for approximately ten seconds (but don't take it out of the ignition)
4) Turn key all the way to position 3 and start the car

If you fear that u may have done it incorrectly, just take the key out of the ignition for a few seconds and repeat the above steps.

The throttle should feel "new" and responsive again, almost as if sport mode is on, but it's not actually =]
You can then turn on sport mode, turn off DSC, and go soil your pants thereafter ^_^

Last edited by mfanatic325; 11-22-2010 at 05:09 PM..
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      11-22-2010, 06:39 PM   #7
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hahaah, sounds like fun, I'll try it
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      11-22-2010, 06:57 PM   #8
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does the throttle adaption and resetting the ecu do the same thing? or is it optimal to perform both actions to get the car out of "granny" mode?
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      11-22-2010, 09:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4Murder View Post
does the throttle adaption and resetting the ecu do the same thing? or is it optimal to perform both actions to get the car out of "granny" mode?
That's a very good question. I'm not all too sure, but I did both just in case
I left the battery disconnected overnight, which isn't necessary whatsoever, but it just worked out that way lol
I did this a couple days prior to my first track day with my car, and the ECU flashed. Was very happy with the results
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      11-23-2010, 04:28 AM   #10
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roman.... maybe you can shed some light onto my orginal question??

i did recieve an email from hans.... it said their alpha N software for the z4m has live adaption with means the ecu constantly adjusts the air fuel ratio to get a perfect mixture.
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      11-23-2010, 06:14 AM   #11
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this is the answer i got from hans..... seems he answered my question for me.

Hello Byron,

Do you think BMW maps all Z4M individually? No. It is the same map in each car. The same boost pressure and the same injectors requires the same mapping. The live adaptation takes care of the differences you can have in altitude and air temperatures.
As long as boost pressure, fuel pressure and lamdasensors are ok the car can not run rich or lean.


Regards,
Hans Kirkerod

Last edited by Beedub; 11-23-2010 at 06:16 AM.. Reason: added section
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      11-23-2010, 08:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
this is the answer i got from hans..... seems he answered my question for me.

Hello Byron,

Do you think BMW maps all Z4M individually? No. It is the same map in each car. The same boost pressure and the same injectors requires the same mapping. The live adaptation takes care of the differences you can have in altitude and air temperatures.
As long as boost pressure, fuel pressure and lamdasensors are ok the car can not run rich or lean.


Regards,
Hans Kirkerod
So does this mean we can get AlphaN programming for us NA Z4M guys?
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      11-23-2010, 10:33 AM   #13
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What Hans told you is correct. The Z4M like most new BMW models runs a fully adaptive ECU. This means it will self correct for optimum performance when needed. Fuel quality, altitude, ambient temps are all taken into consideration. Our software is the same as it will adjust when needed. Our file is optimized for boost but how it works is the same as factory software. The only standard aftermarket mod that would need tuning consideration would be catless headers and we correct for them when requested but simple bolt on mods such as mufflers, intakes etc.. do not require special tuning FI or NA.
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      11-23-2010, 01:37 PM   #14
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i believe ess can do you a NA alpha N software, but youd need the csl intake or a similar mafless intake to go alpha N
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      11-28-2010, 06:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfanatic325 View Post
That's a very good question. I'm not all too sure, but I did both just in case
I left the battery disconnected overnight, which isn't necessary whatsoever, but it just worked out that way lol
I did this a couple days prior to my first track day with my car, and the ECU flashed. Was very happy with the results
hmmm yea i guess it cant hurt. with resetting the ecu i think all we have to change back is the clock? and maybe the radio settings...
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      11-28-2010, 11:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4Murder View Post
hmmm yea i guess it cant hurt. with resetting the ecu i think all we have to change back is the clock? and maybe the radio settings...
Yup, clock and radio, and you do lose your MPG and speed averages lol
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