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SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS! |
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03-25-2008, 02:39 PM | #45 |
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Sponges are cheap, I buy lots and go through them frequently. Used sponges end up in the rim washing pile and are in a seperate bucket. Car body and car rims are seperate buckets so I dont get brake dust onto the car body and rub it in for that sanding effect.
I also have a Simoniz power washer (1800psi model) for spraying off large dirt deposits and spraying down the car. A good Zaino now and then will have to do at keeping the swirlies away. But Leo, if you were any closer, I'd be more than happy to wash my cars at your place. Planning on opening a Toronto chain anytime soon? Aim for Markham!
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03-25-2008, 02:40 PM | #46 | |
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Quote:
It depends on HOW it's done & products used
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03-25-2008, 10:59 PM | #47 |
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03-26-2008, 10:21 AM | #48 |
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Now if I ever sold my wash, this is how I would wash the exterior of my car.
First, I would need some low pressure sprayers (like the ones used for weeds), I would also have a good quality pressure washer. One that can deliver 1200PSI with a wide tip at 4 gallons per minute minimum. I would also look at getting a high powered blower. I would also order commercial car wash presoaks. They are better and much cheaper that the off-the-shelf stuff. I would mix the alkaline and acid presoaks in their own sprayers as per the vendors mix ratios (some around 60:1) with hot water (about 140F). Now my Z4 doesn't get anywhere near as dirty as my 4x4 truck, so here's the steps; Park car out of direct sunlight. 1: Apply the acid presoak. DO NOT pre-rinse the car as it would just dilute the soap. Apply evenly going from the bottom up and ensure you get the wheels and glass well covered. Let it dwell for about 30 seconds (that would be a good time to brush the wheels and tires if needed). 2: HP rinse off 3:Apply alkaline presoak, evenly going from the bottom up. Let it dwell for about 30 seconds. 4:HP rinse off, pay close attention to bug residue and other organic soils like tar, bird droppings, etc. Have a seperate spray bottle with the alkaline presoak at full strength for those spots that are particularly bad. NEVER apply full strength presoaks on dry paint! 5:blow dry car and inspect and redo any misses (but I never miss ) As far as waxing goes, I would then use a good quality spray on wax (you guys have your favorites). Claybar and polish as needed. This wash would be completely touchless and a good maintenance wash. As you all know...keeping a car waxed means it is more difficult for soils to stick on in the first place, so it makes the car much easier to clean (so no friction required). I'm not sure if anyone is interested, but I could supply these presoaks to you Canadian guys for about $100cnd (+ shipping) for a 5 gallon pail (should last you years per pail). Big Leo
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03-26-2008, 11:11 AM | #49 |
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I took my Z4 to coincarwash.ca, they have a great facility there.
If you do decide to go, never use a mop that's there (mops at self wash bays may scratch) and buy tokens, $20 = 25 tokens bonus 5 tokens. |
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03-26-2008, 12:05 PM | #50 |
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First, the “Mop” is a really a Hog Hair brush. It is completely safe to use as the hog hair bristles are softer than the pain (the nylon ones should never be used on car paint). However, any grit that may be in the brush can and will scratch the paint, so it is best to rinse the head of the brush with high pressure rinse BEFORE using it. Also, ensure there is enough foam to properly lubricate the brush and draw away any dirt particles that is coming off the car. The foam brush soap actually has no cleaning power to it…it is there simply to lubricate, the cleaning power comes from the friction of the bristles. Having said all this, I rarely use it as I find it not to be necessary as my car is never that dirty and always protected with wax or some other type of paint protectant. Usually a good alkaline presoak along with high pressure rinse will do the trick.
About Coinwash.ca, I have had a few discussions with Stuart and I am still pissed at him for stealing my "Getting the Best Results" write up. He completely plagiarized it and admitted to it. He has made some minor changes to his info, but much of what I see on his page I've either written or read somewhere else....and so people like that I can live without . Now Stuart is a production and photography cinematography guy. He built an above average wash, but how well the wash works depends a lot on understanding chemistry, paint and other surfaces. From carwash postings I've read from him...I'm not impressed. But that is the carwash industry. The vast majority of owner operators of commercial carwashes and detail centers have woefully low on training, education and expertise. When you understand the chemistry, the soils and surface that you're dealing with, washing a car properly without causing damage is not that difficult. BigLeo
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04-07-2008, 02:31 PM | #51 |
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BigLeo48, you really know how to wash a car !
I'm trading in my 2005 black saphire 2.5i .... for ... a .... IMOLA RED, M Roadster It's comming in the middle of may. I'm gonna take better care of this one, hand wash only. |
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