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SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS! |
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06-09-2022, 06:58 AM | #2 |
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06-09-2022, 09:49 AM | #3 | |
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06-09-2022, 10:40 AM | #4 | |
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Due to your single selection of paint color and the very rare OEM color, suggest going after this uber low mileage example.
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06-09-2022, 11:27 AM | #5 |
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100% with racerbruce here. You will not find another one and with a hardtop too which is also super rare. Its almost one of a kind and just happens to be for sale. I'd make it work somehow.
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06-09-2022, 06:29 PM | #6 |
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Looked at the photos again and it appears to be in absolutely pristine condition.
If your color palate does not have room for any other color, secure this ride if possible. Garaged, the current owner since 5K miles. 20k miles divided by 19 yrs = 1,053 miles per yr.
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06-09-2022, 11:30 PM | #7 |
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Looking nationwide and only found 1 other urban green but its a 2.5i. Looks to be in fair condition from the pics and far cheaper.
https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/...492853959.html Good luck, that's a rare color! |
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06-15-2022, 01:29 PM | #8 | |
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I don't disagree at all and if I had the cash it would be the perfect car for what im looking for unfortunately I just don't have that much money right now so I can only enjoy that one in pictures |
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06-15-2022, 01:30 PM | #9 | |
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06-15-2022, 04:30 PM | #10 |
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Have you thought about calling him (them) and offering what you can afford? The ad is listed as "or best offer"....and it's been available for some length of time.
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06-15-2022, 04:34 PM | #11 |
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IMHO....just the OEM in-perfect-condition-hardtop is work $3,000 or perhaps as much as $5,000 due to the ultra-scarcity of OEM hardtops in pristine condition.
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06-22-2022, 01:09 PM | #12 | |
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I've had the car for going on 15 yrs at this point, I don't drive it, and I'd like the space in the garage for shop space. I believe there is ~97k miles, I can verify the exact number tonight. I'm asking $15.5k OBO as it sits with the hard top. The bad: Car does not have heat. There are 3-4 actuated blender flaps under the dash that allow you to mix heat/cooling. One or more of these failed, so I could only get warm air and no real A/C. I've bypassed the heater core since I only ever drive the car in the summer, though you could get around the issue by installing an electrical valve to reroute the warm coolant through the heater core. This is a relatively common mod for old hot rods so it's well documented. The paint / body is a 10 footer. There are dings, rock chips, and scratches. I dailied this for many years driving down the interstates around Chicago to my job which was ~70 miles round trip. It could benefit from a PDR to get rid of the handful of dings. I'm currently fighting an electrical gremlin. If the car has been sitting for a while, I get three dash lights (traction,brake, and tire pressure) warning. I thought it was a battery issue and replaced it, no improvement. I replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator and now the lights will be there when I start it, but after 5 minutes of driving I can shut the car down and restart it and they go away. My next step will be to replace the actual alternator since the voltage regulator showed an improvement. Most E85 Z4's are fighting electrical issues at this point, just part of owning an older BMW. Two accidents that I can remember. First was someone pulling out of a parking lot as I drove by and clipped the passenger door and rear quarter. The second was while driving down the interstate, a trunk in front of me dropped a chunk of concrete my car couldn't clear and I was boxed in. I elected to hit it on the tire in an effort to save my undercarriage. Took our the bumper, a bunch of fender well plastics, driver headlight, and the driver side sideskirt where it exited. All were replaced with BMW OEM parts. The Good: Rare OEM parts including the aero bumper, aero sideskirts, and hardtop. TON of maintenance in the last 3-4yrs, during which time the car was off the road for 2 years and not registered. Things with less than 2500 miles: entire cooling system (water pump, all hoses, radiator, coolant reservoir), valve cover gasket, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coils, vanos, Bilstein shocks/struts (on H&R springs), rotors, pads, brake fluid, tires, serpentine belt, power window motors / cables, electrical door latches. Oil and transmission fluid were just changed ~1 month ago. I also cleaned every electrical connection related to the airbag system to get rid of an airbag light. The soft top motor has been replaced with a Ford Mustang unit and put into the trunk so no worries about that anymore. Let me know if you're interested and we can discuss how to proceed. |
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