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      01-07-2019, 11:43 PM   #155
mattfwalters
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Deeply frustrating evening. However, I did get the solenoid valve installed on the accumulator (which has about 1.9 qts of oil in it now!):



And got the MAP sensor installed on the vacuum manifold (yes, both the hose and mounting method are temporary):



...and ordered about $150 in -10AN fittings so I can basically re-do all of the plumbing on the engine side of the oil cooler thermostat because the Universe has stuck gamely to the irritating rule about multiple things occupying the same physical space (i.e. they can't).

edit: oh, forgot. I also got the oil pressure sender installed since the M12x1.5 male to NPT 1/8" female fitting I needed to adapt the ports on the oil filter manifold to the sensors finally showed up.

Last edited by mattfwalters; 01-07-2019 at 11:51 PM..
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      01-11-2019, 03:23 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattfwalters View Post
I will do once I feel like sorting through and photographing everything. Until then, folks following the build thread can probably get a really good deal on stuff since I'm lazy.
I really wish I was closer to you, I'd take that interior and seats off your hands and put it in my green roadster. Oh well, entertaining build that I wish I had the time, and talent, to do!
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      01-13-2019, 09:12 PM   #157
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Today:

Modified the oil hoses so the oil system is finally actually closed! Then I hooked up the throttle pedal to the ECU:


And was able to calibrate it! But then I realized the the Infinity E46 M3 plug-and-play harness must also have an h-bridge driver on the throttle actuator, so.. sigh. More screwing about required there.

I terminated the crank, inlet cam, and exhaust cam position sensors along with both throttle position sensors in WeatherPack connectors:



Next I'll wire up the other sides of those connectors and figure out the h-bridge driver for the throttle actuator.
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      01-13-2019, 09:14 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nadaclue View Post
I really wish I was closer to you, I'd take that interior and seats off your hands and put it in my green roadster. Oh well, entertaining build that I wish I had the time, and talent, to do!
Thanks!

No worries, somebody will jump on the leather bits.
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      01-19-2019, 10:10 PM   #159
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Drive-by-wire is working. It doesn't need a separate h-bridge driver, but I had the open and close wires reversed despite quadruple-checking them. Very strange. I'll have to figure out where I got mixed up on them.

I'm surprised that AEM's default is to run the DBW actuator on 600Hz PWM. Since it's a physical actuator, it acts as a speaker... I'm running it at 10kHz now and it's still irritating but at least it won't be audible with the car running.

Click for super-exciting (lol) DBW video:
View post on imgur.com


Throttle seems to open not quite all the way, so I'll look at tweaking that to make it perfectly flat / open.

Next: Crank / cam position sensors, accumulator solenoid, IAC, and then I'll get the starter wired. If the cam and crank sensors track on the starter motor, I'll add spark, and if I get spark, I'll do a top-to-bottom pass on all the nuts, bolts, wires, sensors, etc. before - finally - adding fuel.

Oh, and I picked this up today...


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      01-20-2019, 01:12 AM   #160
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View post on imgur.com


Click for vid - that is the engine spinning on the starter for the first time in a year and a half.

...got something in my eye, brb
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      01-20-2019, 05:45 AM   #161
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Trim pieces!

I just bought a coupe that's missing both b pillar trim pieces. Do you have them still? I would be interested in the passenger side trim by the quarter window also.
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      01-20-2019, 08:44 AM   #162
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Seems way more complicated than my conversion! AEM is a fantastic product. I also had to run the throttle body at a high frequency to reduce the while when operating. My hardest struggle with AEM was tuning the throttle body idle/closed loop. The BMW tb has a really strong spring making it difficult to get down to 2% and controlling the idle as well. I had to manually force the throttle plate closed while doing the auto-tune function to achieve full range.
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      01-20-2019, 10:45 AM   #163
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GO Matt F***ing Walters!
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      01-20-2019, 01:45 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dre99gsx View Post
Seems way more complicated than my conversion! AEM is a fantastic product. I also had to run the throttle body at a high frequency to reduce the while when operating. My hardest struggle with AEM was tuning the throttle body idle/closed loop. The BMW tb has a really strong spring making it difficult to get down to 2% and controlling the idle as well. I had to manually force the throttle plate closed while doing the auto-tune function to achieve full range.
I'm retaining the IAC for that exact reason, actually. One of today's goals is to get the rest of the sensors wired and verify operation of the IAC solenoid.

I think I'll be playing with the overshoot and hysteresis on the AEM DBW loop as well, given the really strong throttle return spring I'm seeing the throttle plates overshoot to ~100% open and then settle at ~95% open.

I still find the 10kHz PWM extremely irritating, unfortunately.
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      01-20-2019, 01:56 PM   #165
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Originally Posted by racerbruce View Post
GO Matt F***ing Walters!


On it!
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      01-20-2019, 10:48 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dre99gsx View Post
Seems way more complicated than my conversion! AEM is a fantastic product. I also had to run the throttle body at a high frequency to reduce the while when operating. My hardest struggle with AEM was tuning the throttle body idle/closed loop. The BMW tb has a really strong spring making it difficult to get down to 2% and controlling the idle as well. I had to manually force the throttle plate closed while doing the auto-tune function to achieve full range.
I may want to speak to you about this since I'm getting very strange behavior trying to drive the IAC valve (including the Infinity somehow keeping the main EFI relay on regardless of ignition switch setting when I feed it power). Did you ever get it to idle well on just the ITBs?

I got almost all of the rest of the sensors wired up to the Infinity this afternoon (EGT remains; wideband O2 sensors need to be installed in the headers), confirmed that it is tracking the intake and exhaust cam position sensors, wired up the ignition and wired up the injectors. It's a bit tough to confirm spark with the coil-on-plug setup (where on earth to ground out the bloody plug?) but I think I did. We'll see.

I'm not seeing any oil pressure when I crank the engine. Dipstick comes back with a good level, but I'm wondering if I've picked a bad place for the oil pressure sensor. It's currently - along with the oil temp sensor - in the firewall side of the oil filter manifold where a stock sensor was. The oil temp sensor is replacing a blanking plug just inboard of that location.

There were a few places where my wiring plan didn't work with the Infinity, so I'll be updating my pinout / wiring diagram to reflect that.

I now have 4.5 gallons of brand-new 92 octane pump gas in the garage. I'm awfully close to putting it in the car... don't want to attempt a start without confirming oil pressure, though, and definitely don't want to do it when I don't have enough time to clean up fuel-rinsed cylinders and debug.



Oh, and I test-fit the seat:


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      01-20-2019, 10:57 PM   #167
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Ah - you're on ITBs (obviously). I'm coming from the N52 single-plate electronic body. It did take me a good amount of time (hours) tuning the PID. There are some instructions on the AEM forums (I may have been the one to write them up..), where you'll need to increase the gain BELOW your idle setpoint by a substantial amount to overcome the throttle springs. That's only if you can't get the plates to close enough for consistent idle.

You mentioned IAC - if that's the case, then life will be a breeze tuning the PID on the throttle bodies. Keep us posted.

EFI staying on - I bet you have something miswired. Have you gotten a good night's sleep?
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      01-20-2019, 11:11 PM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dre99gsx View Post
Ah - you're on ITBs (obviously). I'm coming from the N52 single-plate electronic body. It did take me a good amount of time (hours) tuning the PID. There are some instructions on the AEM forums (I may have been the one to write them up..), where you'll need to increase the gain BELOW your idle setpoint by a substantial amount to overcome the throttle springs. That's only if you can't get the plates to close enough for consistent idle.

You mentioned IAC - if that's the case, then life will be a breeze tuning the PID on the throttle bodies. Keep us posted.

EFI staying on - I bet you have something miswired. Have you gotten a good night's sleep?
EFI relay is staying on if I run +12V to the IAC solenoid while it's connected to the Infinity pins I thought it should be connected to based on the pinout for the PnP harness. There must be something in the PnP harness between the IAC and the ECU. No worries, just leaving that unplugged for the time being and will try to get it to start and idle on the ITBs. Thanks for the tips!
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      01-21-2019, 01:26 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattfwalters View Post
...Throttle seems to open not quite all the way, so I'll look at tweaking that to make it perfectly flat / open....

Not sure how your's is supposed to work, so maybe this is a stupid comment, but, of course, you're aware that the stock setup only opens the throttles 75% until you hit something like 6500 rpm.

I figured this was the modern fly-by-wire equivalent of P-car VarioRam or T-car T-VIS.
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Last edited by StickMon; 01-22-2019 at 12:51 AM..
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      01-22-2019, 12:56 AM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Not sure how your's is supposed to work, so maybe this is a stupid comment, but, of course, you're aware that the stock setup only opens the throttles 75% until you hit something like 6500 rpm.

I figured this was the modern fly-by-wire equivalent of P-car VarioRam or T-car T-VIS.
I actually wasn't, but that's good to know, thanks. I'm sure you're right that it's meant to enhance tumble at "low" RPM to enhance torque output. In this case I only have a 1d table for target throttle % - it's linear to pedal position. I'll consider going 2d to relate RPM and pedal position once the car runs.
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      01-26-2019, 07:04 PM   #171
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Verified the oil pressure sensor works. Still not getting any oil pressure while spinning on the starter. Pulled the plugs again to let it spin faster, triple-checked which of the oil cooler passages is out to cooler (front, I think - directly connected to oil passage in the middle of the oil filter) and which is in to engine (rear, I think, because above). Have tried a bunch of tricks that are supposed to help prime a dry oil pump with no luck. Sump is now at the full-full point according to the dipstick. I feel a bit like I'm losing my mind here.

Some suggestions are "just start the engine" but I really don't want to do that without verifying oil flow. Any suggestions?
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      01-27-2019, 08:13 AM   #172
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Could this info be relevant??

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattfwalters View Post
Verified the oil pressure sensor works. Still not getting any oil pressure while spinning on the starter. Pulled the plugs again to let it spin faster, triple-checked which of the oil cooler passages is out to cooler (front, I think - directly connected to oil passage in the middle of the oil filter) and which is in to engine (rear, I think, because above). Have tried a bunch of tricks that are supposed to help prime a dry oil pump with no luck. Sump is now at the full-full point according to the dipstick. I feel a bit like I'm losing my mind here.

Some suggestions are "just start the engine" but I really don't want to do that without verifying oil flow. Any suggestions?
http://www.hastingsfilter.com/Literature/TSB/93-1R1.pdf
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      01-27-2019, 09:59 AM   #173
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Hi Matt,

the problem is your oil pump run out of oil, so much that it cannot build "compression" to suck the oil in. There are some things you can try. The "professional" way is to drain the oil, remove the round cover and fill the oil pump with pressure to the pickup tube, close it, fill up and start. Lots of work, but will work 100%.

The other way is to fill up the pump from above. The problem is in the oil filter housing is a check valve so the oil dont run back to the pan so you get oil pressure as fast as possible on startup. So when you fill up oil in there it wont reach the pump. It will disappear but on another path when the cover is removed. So you can remove the oil filter housing and fill up the pump directly to the lowest port in the engine housing. A little bit of work too... but should also work 99%!

The last thing you could try, heat up the oil as much as you can so it gets thinner, maybe its enough to let the pump suck it. (some hairdryer for some couple of hours + an old electric kettle )

Sorry for that "english" (german.. )

Fatman
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      01-27-2019, 12:14 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racerbruce View Post
Super relevant, thanks. That's exactly what I'm fighting with right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 53Fatman View Post
Hi Matt,

the problem is your oil pump run out of oil, so much that it cannot build "compression" to suck the oil in. There are some things you can try. The "professional" way is to drain the oil, remove the round cover and fill the oil pump with pressure to the pickup tube, close it, fill up and start. Lots of work, but will work 100%.

The other way is to fill up the pump from above. The problem is in the oil filter housing is a check valve so the oil dont run back to the pan so you get oil pressure as fast as possible on startup. So when you fill up oil in there it wont reach the pump. It will disappear but on another path when the cover is removed. So you can remove the oil filter housing and fill up the pump directly to the lowest port in the engine housing. A little bit of work too... but should also work 99%!

The last thing you could try, heat up the oil as much as you can so it gets thinner, maybe its enough to let the pump suck it. (some hairdryer for some couple of hours + an old electric kettle )

Sorry for that "english" (german.. )

Fatman
No apologies required, your English is far far better than my German Thank you for the specific ideas.
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      01-27-2019, 07:45 PM   #175
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Here's what I did:
1. Obtained 50W oil (not 0W50, actually 50W motor oil) and a little oil-can sprayer;
2. Pulled the oil filter;
3. Used a curved pick to lift up the one-way valve (it's the one towards the rear of the engine);
4. Pumped 50W into that passage until it bubbled over;
5. Spun the engine on the starter for about 30 seconds.

I've seen as much as 1.7 bar of pressure on the starter motor today, so hooray.

Not pictured: installed both O2 sensors, turned on the fuel pump and verified 5.0 bar of fuel pressure on the gauge, hooked up my notebook and tried to start the thing.

No noise because no spark. Pulled the plugs and spun out the fuel (I have fuel!!!), will track down whatever is causing no spark later in the week.

e: just realized I have the incorrect pressure scale faceplate on the oil pressure gauge. D'oh.
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      01-27-2019, 07:48 PM   #176
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Definitely do not dry start the motor! When I did my rod bearings and added the cooler, I had to fast crank the motor with the plugs removed for what seemed like far longer than it should have. I probably did 8 30 second hits. I suppose it's conceivable that the pump was cavitating at first, but eventually the oil pressure light went out and the gauge showed life.
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