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07-01-2015, 01:50 PM | #1 |
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Oil Filter Housing Gasket
TAKE CARE OF THAT LEAK BEFORE IT DOES DAMAGE TO OTHER RUBBER PARTS!
If you noticed your engine oil depleting quicker than normal. Oil dripping from the front of the engine covering oil pan, steering rack, and generally all over the bottom of the engine and panels under the car. It might be that oil housing gasket. Although I sold my e85 right after i did this gasket, I figure i give you guys a little information of what happened.. I bought the 2005 Z4 with 70k miles knowing there was an oil drip, didn't know what it was at first. Drove the car for a while, and had to fill up on 0w30 once in awhile. Did an oil change 3lk miles later and noticed oil really dripping a lot faster (actual spots in the driveway). I'm assuming that because I changed the oil filter it loosed up the already pancaked gasket and started dripping. I thought maybe i didnt tighten up the drain bolt, so i tightened it, no avail. Happy to say that I didn't strip my oil pan or drain bolt, although apparently its impossible to strip it as its designed to strip the bolt before the pan. Don't know how true that is, and didn't want to find out. Service took me about 2 - 2 1/2 hours Gasket was $10 from BMW the guy hooked it up with the crush washers. Onto the service. *disconnect your battery from the truck *remove your airbox (if you can't do this, good luck to you) 1. Remove belt that goes around alternator. a. there is a 16mm dummy bolt on the tensioner that you can get a ratchet on and push down when standing on the driver side. b. then you can remove the belt and let it hang. 2. Remove alternator. 2 14mm bolts. a. one on the top which is behind cap that you need to pop off located on the pulley in front of the top of the alt. b. bottom bolts is kind of hidden towards the bottom of the alt. feel for the bolt with your hand. c. disconnect the plug and power wire from the back of the alt (be sure your batt is disconnected otherwise you'll short it out if you touch something with that cable) 3. Remove the entire oil filter housing. a. its held on by 6 12 or 14mm bolts (don't remember) b. disconnect 2 plugs on the housing c. disconnect oil supply line to the VANOS (16mm) on the right side on housing (there are 2 washers on the banjo bolt, i replaced mine right away. up to you if you want to... but didn't feel like running the risk of that leaking) d. remove 6 main bolts holding the housing to the block. e. there are 2 alignment pins on the block that make it easier to put the housing back on (go bmw). 4. Replace the gasket (mine was totally flat) 5. Put everything back in reverse. *When i bolted the housing back i did it in x-pattern (like wheels). *I don't have torque specs, I tightened each bolt considering their size and what they are used for. *If your having problems with your top not working after the job don't have a heart attack like I did. Reset your windows, and you should be good. Resources. Last edited by PureTorque; 07-08-2015 at 10:59 AM.. |
07-01-2015, 02:15 PM | #2 |
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Thanks for this. I had this exact problem on my ZHP and couple months ago and wasn't able to diagnose it at the time. Very helpful post for anyone who may run across this problem in the future!
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07-01-2015, 07:52 PM | #3 |
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Drives: Built not Bought 04 Z4 VF. E70
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That would expain the pesky drip I had for a while.
Another project for the off season.
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W2A Intercooled Vortech V3Si, custom ducting, Alpha N, 60# Bosch,2.62 pulley, multi port WMI, Severn Tuning(pokeybritches), Tial, magnaflow,SS race muffler, 42 design,3.91LSD, H&R, Hotchkis,ST coils,Konis, Megan camber arms, AKG SS, Nylon mounts, Poly bushings, Carbon interior, CF Aero.APEX
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07-07-2015, 10:12 AM | #4 |
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Drives: Z4MC/M5/640iX/M1000RR
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Very common with a lot BMW 6 cylinder engines and very dangerous if not addressed in due time.
P.S. You can go back to edit your original post and change the title to actually read "Oil Filter Housing Gasket" |
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