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SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS! |
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07-27-2013, 09:12 AM | #47 |
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07-27-2013, 09:14 AM | #48 |
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07-28-2013, 08:17 PM | #50 | |
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ok I'm sold now too. I Cant PM on the other forum, but i'm not ready to order yet anyway.
Question about bolts. Is it a must to order new bolts, and if so, are the BMW 10.9 I keep reading about the preferred ones? Anything else aside what I see below, that needs to get ordered to have these puppies installed properly? Quote:
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07-28-2013, 11:28 PM | #51 |
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I haven't done mine yet. Will next month.
The Motorsports bolts are 99 cents each, and are a point of failure in some cars, so what the heck. I also have Nord-locks, which are cheap and easy too, so why not. You have to take off the reinforcement plate to get to the right side, so you need those bolts. Looks like taking the air box off is the best way to get to the left side, so you should get a set of 6 throttle body clamps. If you get in on the group buy, I think you save enough coin to cover everything I mentioned above.
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07-30-2013, 07:36 AM | #53 | |
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The mfg of the clamps say that they are re-usable. They aren't a lot of money, but IMO I wouldn't make a special trip to the dealer for them.
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07-30-2013, 10:51 AM | #54 |
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I threw a set on an order of oil and filter and misc from Tischer.
I'll try to get them off gently, but I like to have spare things just in case.
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07-30-2013, 11:03 AM | #55 |
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spares are a good idea
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07-31-2013, 04:14 PM | #57 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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08-10-2013, 11:37 PM | #60 |
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Get this too
I would recommend before doing this to get an SAP gasket so you can take the bloody thing off.
It blocks getting the heat shields off the right side and makes removing and torquing the top right motor mount nut a lot harder than it needs to be. Just did this mod yesterday, along with motorsports bolts, Nordlocks, and RE trans mounts. A couple observations for other novices that might not have done it yet: Completely remove the bottom trans mount nuts. Obviously, when you jack up the engine the trans comes along, but I underestimated by how much, so I took the nuts almost, but not all the way off. Didn't really cause a problem, but it was yankin' on the mounts. After a few trials, I jacked the engine from the right side of the oil pan, to the right of the circular cover, which I imagine is the sump strainer. This is still left of the center of gravity, so the left side comes up even further. I though my stock mounts were fine after 7 years and 90k miles. I was wrong. The right side had huge cracks under the heat shield, where it was impossible to see while installed. Glad I decided on this mod "just to be safe". The top nuts on the trans mounts are a PITA. I saw a DIY that said to move the rear heat shield back. Must have been a DIY for an M3, because my heat shield goes all the way to the dif, and beyond. I took the first 2 nuts off and did a "crease, crumple, cram" of the shield up into the tunnel to buy some room to get my hand in. The VT mounts are about 1/8" taller than stock, or at least 7 year old stock. They may have sagged over the years. When I put the right side in, I had to jack the engine up a little more to get the bracket flat against the block.
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08-29-2013, 12:41 AM | #62 |
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From link in first post:
GB IS OFFICIALLY OVER!!! SORRY IF ANYONE MISSED OUT!!! It's still worth it to get them, you're just out about 40 bucks.
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08-31-2013, 02:17 PM | #63 |
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Thanks for the update. Decided to go for it despite missing group buy. Cant wait to confirm the improvement in shifting.
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09-19-2013, 06:23 AM | #64 |
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Just got my car back last night, had the VT roadies installed and upgraded bolts to 10.9, and of course kept the heat shield on as well. I have the RE Tranny mounts already on the car.
I too notice a difference in the shifting with the VT mounts, it seems that downshifting is where the improvement is most obvious under more spirited driving conditions. Under normal conditions, the improvement is barely noticeable for me but shifting here does feel a little better. Strangly the car just 'feels' more responsive, but maybe its all in my head? As for added vibration or road noise, I dont notice any more noise whatsoever (and I have stock cans so its not masked), and I notice a slight uptick in vibration under 1000 rpm, but its not a problem at all. I have 24k miles on it and my stock mounts looked fine when they came off. Perhaps thats why I am noticing a modest improvement but not a drastic improvement like some folks that had cracked mounts or 50k+ miles with added wear on the stock rubber. And wow - those new mounts look gorgeous. All in - very happy with the upgrade. And I have a lot of peace of mind now, not having to worry about bolts backing out, or running with a cracked mount.
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09-19-2013, 10:24 AM | #65 | |
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09-19-2013, 12:10 PM | #66 | |
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One more great feature is that these mounts are fail safe. So even if they crack in half they still will work as expected. They are also rebuildable, so schedule in every 5-10 years getting new inserts from VT so they're always in top shape.
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