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10-09-2012, 06:28 AM | #23 |
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Thanks man, like I said always helps having someone show you in person as opposed to reading about it.
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10-09-2012, 08:21 AM | #24 | |
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I had the same issues as you. I have a size 12-13 foot, so using my heel to blip the throttle is impossible since my heel hits the tunnel and it's impossible for me to hit the throttle! I use the same metheod as you do for heel-toe. With your last two steps where you're having issues, once you blip the throttle (or hit it) get the clutch out FAST! Don't delay or ease it out. Once you hit the throttle and the revs climb just let the clutch fly and it'll be much more seamless. One of my instructors pointed it out several years ago and it made a huge difference in ease/smoothness. Personally, I wait to do my downshift until right before I want to get onto the throttle. So I brake HARD to start and then begin to tailor off. Once I'm tailoring off is when I'll start my heel-toe downshift. I'll get it done and then be ready to get back on the throttle right away, no delays. This way I can conscentrate on the hard braking zone and set myself up for the exit. It is more of a step-by-step routine, but it simplifies things and lets me be smoother.
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10-11-2012, 09:03 AM | #25 |
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I found this video very helpful. I'll NEVER be able to replicate the way Senna does it, but I work very hard to get close. I can learn something everytime i see this.
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10-18-2012, 09:52 PM | #26 |
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So in an earlier post, someone said they like downshifting sequentially for a 5-4-3 shift while another said just brake in 5 and blip to 3 later. If the braking zone is that long, brake in neutral, then blip to 3.
The idea is a moving engine has mechanical momentum that the rear brakes have to slow. Neutral and you slowing only the car. I bought an oem brake pedal, cut the pedal off the arm, and bolted the pedal I cut to the existing pedal with washers as shims. Now rolling my foot is easy and I'm using my stock pedal pad. Total mod cost was under $40!
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10-19-2012, 12:24 AM | #27 | |
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10-19-2012, 10:50 AM | #28 |
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10-20-2012, 09:04 AM | #29 | |
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Been working on this ^. it just seems to feel pretty good on the road and its easier to start out with.
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10-27-2012, 02:07 PM | #30 |
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The video just posted at the top of this thread over in the main section has a great quick section of heel-toe on an M with OEM pedals on it. @ ~1:16 or so
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthre...1#post12902442
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10-28-2012, 09:42 AM | #31 |
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10-31-2012, 09:54 PM | #32 | |
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Also, just out of curiosity, who has found heel and toe'n easier with the CDV valve delete? I would imagine it would be smoother. |
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03-03-2013, 07:23 PM | #33 |
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A friend of mine just sent me this video link, an E46 with a heel-toe cam installed, this is the clearest video I have seen that demonstrates it. I dont know the driver, but the track is Lightning@ NJMP, and he is a friend of a friend I guess. And he passes a red ///M coupe early on... Enjoy.
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03-03-2013, 08:03 PM | #34 | |
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I think I'm going to put grip-tape on my brake pedal so I don't get nervous of my foot slipping off the pedal. I think that's half my problem...since I can't really heel-toe like the video above (I wear 11.5 puma driving shoes) I use half my foot for brakes and half of blip. It seems like I have to roll my foot forever to blip it enough, and to the point where I think I'm going to slip off the brake |
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03-03-2013, 11:31 PM | #35 | |
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Grip tape my prevent the foot dancing on the pedals for trail braking and left foot braking. Btw. He only blips the throttle for down shifting. There is a lot more to do with the feet. |
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03-03-2013, 11:49 PM | #36 | |
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All-in-all, I just need to practice. Only way it will get better. |
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03-04-2013, 11:57 AM | #37 |
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I used to go to industrial parks on the weekends and drive around the corners at 25mph practicing. It harder and safer at those speeds. It makes it easier and works the subconcious which makes it easier to duplicate at the track.
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03-04-2013, 12:22 PM | #38 | |
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03-05-2013, 11:28 PM | #39 | ||
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^ Very impressive technique.
I'm 6'5" and wear a 14 Puma Speedcat. My legs nearly brush the steering wheel with my seat as far back as it will go. H/T is physically impossible for me, but I want to perform the best alternative technique. I don't think I will ever "get" the side-of-foot blip either. This is what I currently do: Brake until apex > double-clutch/rev-match > exit. Don't ask me why I double-clutch. It feels natural to me and makes me feel safe that I won't destroy anything if I get it wrong. I lose a lot of time doing this and I know there is a better technique, but I have a hard time getting my head around it. What is the best technique knowing I need to take my foot off the brake to do it? The best sequence I can think of is: (after finish braking) clutch in > downshift > blip > clutch out > exit -- in one smooth motion. Or does blip come before downshift? Quote:
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03-06-2013, 03:56 AM | #40 | |
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instructors can't pick up if you're not heel toeing? pretty easy to tell if someone's heel toeing in the braking zone after a long straight. unless they're really oblivious or you're left foot braking.
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04-25-2013, 06:07 PM | #41 |
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MacGyver approach to heel toe
I know this is an old thread...
Last year I was having the same problem as I am 6'2" with big feet. Heel toe would be easy if driving on the street because I was using light brake pedal pressure. Any threshold braking and the brake pedal would dip too far below the accelerator to blip the throttle, and i wouldn't want to use anything less than 3/4 of my foot for fear if it slipping off the rubber pedal cover. So I picked up a set of TMS aluminium pedal covers that have little spikes to grab your shoe. To fix the problem with the brake pedal, I bought a pair of flip-flops from my local convenience store, used a knife and cut out the shape of the pedal to make a 3/4" shim to rest between the actual pedal and aluminum pedal cover and....Presto! problem solved. The flip-flop is firm (and cheap) enough to not flex or give a mushy pedal feel, but easy enough to cut with a serrated knife to make the job easy. Now when threshold braking, the brake pedal lines up perfectly that I can blip the throttle, and the aluminum spikes grab onto my shoe so that it WILL NOT slip off |
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04-26-2013, 12:05 PM | #42 |
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Flip flop material is a little soft. Did you try using the original rubber that was on the peddles and drilling through to mount the covers?
May be a better option, since the flip will soon break down. |
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04-26-2013, 12:26 PM | #43 |
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...or just use a longer screw with a nut sleeved over, in between the 2 pieces.
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04-26-2013, 05:22 PM | #44 |
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Flip Flop
The flip-flop I used was/is firm(they probably wouldn't have been the most comfortable to wear), there has been no breakdown in close to a year, with multiple track days on them. I did use a long screw/nut combo and had to drill into the metal pedal and tightened it all up. Since 3 screws are used and its all tightened up quite a bit, there is absolutely no slop/flex in the pedal under hard braking (the last thing I want when coming down from 120+mph with only the left half of my foot on the pedal).
for the clutch pedal I drilled though the rubber cover and through metal pedal and put the supplied screws through it with with lock nuts on the reverse. Just thought it was a relatively low cost option to my dilemma that didn't involve placing a cover that effectively decreased the distance between the accelerator and brake |
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