beta's Modification Journal

[bfwollen]

Can anyone recomend brake pad that do not giv eoff a lot of dust like the sock ones do.

[beta]

I don't think you meant to post in my thread. To answer your question, I'm using akebono euro ceramic and so far I'm very happy with them. Search the forum as this topic (ceramic brakes/reducing dust) has been discussed a few times.

[flipm3]

Great build thread!

I like your attention to detail!

How has the coating on your heads been holding up?

[beta]

Thanks! I'm a big fan of your build flip.

The coating still looks brand new. Since it's a thick layer of ceramic, only way it's coming off is if you grind it off. I'll get some more pictures next saturday. Going to install Vibra-technics engine mounts and an AutoSolutions SSK. 3.91 gears will follow as soon as I get together with forum member finnegan.

After that just need TE-37s and Airbox and I'll be golden. But I think I've spent too much money lately so time to slow down on the mods before the g/f murders me in my sleep

[beta]

Got a set of Vibra-Technics Road Engine Mounts. This is definitely one of my favorite mods.

The difference this engine mounts make is more than one would expect for such a small mod. The throttle response increases, and the car feels more precise, stiffer and more connected. After this mod a sharp throttle input lights up the DSC like a christmas light. Shifting feels much better too, although I installed an SSK at the same time so it's hard to say how much that contributed to it (see below).

We will have to see how these perform over the long run. But right now I'd recommend this mod without reservations. I noticed no increase in NVH and the car feels amazing to drive.

Installation was very straight forward, the only small modification you have to make, is that the heat shields atop each mount have a little tab that you must flatten or remove.

I had already done it, but if you haven't already, take this opportunity to upgrade the engine bolts to 10.9, add Nord-Lock washers and don't forget to use a high quality anti-seize (the purest graphite anti-seize you can find according to Nord-Lock).

Pictures:

Unrelated but wanted to show that my cats still look brand new. Zircotech is a great coating.





And here are the engine mounts installed

[beta]

The Autosolutions SSK is considered the best SSK on the market for both the M3 and the Z4 M. This is also one of my favorite mods.

The best words you can use to describe this mod are: Positive Engagement and Precision. It makes it very obvious what gear you are selecting, and it's very satisfying how precise the shifts are now.

The before/after feeling is very dramatic, and although the difference in throw is very small (I think 12%), it's a definite improvement. This plus the Engine Mounts written up above transform the driving experience. With this mod you will no longer feel the need for a shorter or heavier shifter. Stock shifter feels just about perfect.

You do have to drop the cats and X-Pipe, as well as the drive shaft and transmission tunnel heat shield. So disassembly is not for the faint of heart. Do yourself a favor and study the this installation DIY by onebluemcm. Not only is it a great write up, it actually improved the kit! This round of the group buy included a chamfered bushing thanks to onebluemcms observations.







You can see here the 1/2" Heat Shrink Tubing that onebluemcm recommended to use in his install thread.



And here you can see how the chamfered bushing now fits perfectly. Notice I re-used the stock clips rather than the ones provided in the kit. The stock clips looked more sturdy.

[Shipkiller]

While I agree on your assessment of the AS SSK, removing the drive shaft, while making the install easier, is not necessary.

[beta]

Good point and you're completely right. Onebluemcm did his install in the DIY linked without removing the driveshaft.

I think it might be time effective though, as it makes the rest of the install easier.

[Shipkiller]

How did you keep the drive shaft from turning to break loose the drive shaft bolts?

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

How did you keep the drive shaft from turning to break loose the drive shaft bolts?

tranny in gear & parking brake on. ?
I'm not sure if these driveshafts are dynamically balanced, I would index mark it before removing.

I didnt see the need to remove mine.
I just lowered the tranny a bit to get a bit more room.

[ZStig]

your underbody is clean as hell!

[Shipkiller]

I did not remove mine either. I just loosened the center bearing bolts just a little, for some wiggle room.

I did attempt to remove the front drive shaft bolts, but even with the car in gear (wheels up off ground) and a very large strap wrench on the drive shaft, I could not get the first bolt to break free. I am thinking my technique is flawed…. (little voice says: YOU THINK)


.

[Shipkiller]

Originally Posted by ZStig

your underbody is clean as hell!

That's a byproduct of not driving the car....

[beta]

Originally Posted by ZStig

your underbody is clean as hell!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

That's a byproduct of not driving the car....

Except... it's my daily driver and only vehicle. So it gets driven every day

The drive shaft was marked. The car wasn't in gear / no parking brake. Not sure why it wasn't an issue, I'll ask to see if there's a trick to it

It's possible that by standing up and having it on a lift you just have a better angle to break it free.

[beta]

All credit for this mod goes to SD Z4MR for posting this thread.

This mod is cheap, takes 5 minutes to install, and makes the trunk light actually useful. All you need is a black weatherproof 100cm LED strip. I ordered warm white.

Clean the area with a little alcohol, and place the strip as close to the back edge of the metal ledge as you can.



And here is a very low shot (I crouched down for this one) so you can see that the LEDs are barely visible.



For the curious: the first aid kit was a christmas present, I also have a fire extinguisher under the passenger side seat. I found one that fits very snug in the first aid box, so it doesn't move around at all.

The brown box on the bottom right is a spare coil, so I don't end up stranded if one dies!

[RichardTS]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

I don't understand how your firewall braces are coming loose unless they are not torqued properly and/or you need to replace the one time use hardware.

Never had this issue on either car.

I live in New Orleans and this area has a completely different type of street curb than most places - the concrete curbs run up from the street at an approximate 45 degree angle. No builder puts the normal concrete apron on a drive way and this curb is quite sharp. My firewall braces come loose just from going over theses curbs no matter how slow I go.

[beta]

Parts list:

3M 08661 Clear Super Silicone
1x Valve Cover Gasket 11127832034
6x Spark Plug Hole Gasket 11127831271
2x Valve Cover Seal Washer Grommet 11121437395
13x Valve Cover Nut Grommet 11127830972
2x PCV Return Line Gasket 07119963129
2x Copper washer for return pipe banjo bolt 07119963072

If your strut to firewall braces use the one-time use bolts, you will need a set of those.

Optional parts:

6x Spark Plugs 12120022902

Required tools:

Torque wrench capable of 24-41 Nm. I highly recommend Precision Instruments C2FR68N
Metric Socket set and a long handled ratchet.
32mm socket for turning the engine.
Valve shim set 11340031525
Shim installer tool 83300493743
Feeler Gauges. I purchased angled ones from snap-on FB300A.
Extended 5/8" Spark plug socket, I used this one.

Instructions:

See attached TIS instructions for reference, also review shipkiller's s54 valve adjustment page. Make sure you download the worksheet and fill it in as you go.

By pressing on the sides, remove the hose for the engine vent and remove the oil cap.

Remove the 6 shiny bolts that hold the ignition coil cover.



Disconnect the plug for the exhaust camshaft sensor



Remove the two bolts on the side of the engine.

The left one will be a banjo bolt with two copper washers (part number 7 in the diagram below). There is one copper washer on each side of the return pipe, so it's very easy to drop the washer closest to the engine. When re-installing torque the bolt to 25 Nm.



The second bolt is what holds the grounding strap for the ignition coils to the engine.



Remove the coil cover.



Remove the left brace to give yourself a little extra room.

Lift the latches off the coils



Unplug them



And lift them out. They can be tough to pull out, you might have to wiggle them to break them loose.



Remove the 3 bolts from the front



The two bolts on the edges are different and have shallower washers: Valve Cover Seal Washer Grommet in the parts list above. The center bolt is the same as the 12 bolts you will remove next.



Then remove the 12 bolts of the cylinder head cover. Since you have 13 bolts all together (the 12 you just removed + the center one of the 3 at the front of the cover), this is why you need 13 Valve Cover Nut Grommets.



Unplug the oxygen sensors. Fortunately the two sensor plugs (cylinders 1-3 and 4-6) are different, so you don't have to mark them.

Before you unplug, take a picture so you can route the cables exactly. The ends of the cables go to rubber grommets that you will also want to note how they are routed before you remove them.



Remove the cylinder head cover. The rear of the cover will take some maneuvering as there is a metal shield that gets in the way.



Take some time to admire your engine



Remove the spark plugs



As you remove each spark plug, using a paper towel or shop rag cover the holes so you don't drop anything into the engine.



Remove the tool tray from the engine bay, it's pretty straight forward just release all the plastic screws.

After that remove the fan so you have better access to the front of the engine so you can turn it. To remove the fan you just need to pull out a pin that holds it in place and disconnect the connector, then slide out.



Now you can put your 32mm socket on the engine pulley to crank the engine. You're going to crank from left to right.



If you haven't already, make sure to use paper towels or shop rags to cover all the places where you could drop anything into the engine. You WILL drop shims, so make sure to do this.



Now you can begin the valve adjustment.

First you're going to measure the clearance. Use shipkiller's worksheet linked at the top of this post so you keep track of every step, also check his DIY pdf as he has close-up pictures of where and how to measure.



When you find a shim that needs adjusting, remove the retaining clip from the rocker arm.



This will allow you to move the rocker arm to the side and using the magnetic tool, pick up the shim.

Measure the shim, and grab a larger or smaller shim as needed.



When you are done, replace the valve cover gasket, making sure you put 3m sealant listed in the parts list on the corners as indicated in the TIS. Make sure the gasket is completely seated and the rubber pegs are fully inserted.



Replace the sealing rings around the spark plug cylinders



Reassemble cover gasket, reinsert the coils, attach the oil line (torquing as indicated above) and you are done.

[Vanne]

Wow mate, nice ride and nice write up : D keep up the good work as your making us drool...

[bosstones]

Nice thread and write ups, beta! Keep'em coming!

[XMetal]

That engine is immaculate! How many mile's on the car?

[beta]

Originally Posted by Vanne

Wow mate, nice ride and nice write up : D keep up the good work as your making us drool...

Thanks!

Originally Posted by bosstones

Nice thread and write ups, beta! Keep'em coming!

Thank you, will do.

I need to finish the valve adjustment DIY but I keep running out of time. I'll try to get it done next week, otherwise it'll have to wait 2 more weeks while I'm out of town.

Originally Posted by XMetal

That engine is immaculate! How many mile's on the car?

Thanks! Car has a little under 26k miles on it.

[Vanne]

I am having this done by the shop atm, anything you can tell me to look for to make sure they have done a good job? Obviously I cannot be there to supervise to make sure they torque all the bolts properly. But any tell tale signs? How many shims would roughly need replacing? I guess that would depend on how far it was out... Lol. But anything you can tell me to look for or ask them about how it went?

Cheers and thanks, waiting patiently on the completion of the DIY

I am also having new plugs installed while they are there. : ) easier access I would think.