beta's Modification Journal

[Shipkiller]

I don't understand how your firewall braces are coming loose unless they are not torqued properly and/or you need to replace the one time use hardware.

Never had this issue on either car.

[beta]

The one time use bolts are for 2007+ models (according to BMW mid 2006, but on this forum we've seen cars built december 2006 that still had the old style bolts).

Previously the strut towers had welded in bolts. The only way to retrofit is to break off the mounts and weld in the new style mounts. Instead of doing that I opted for using Nord Locks. My 2004 2.5i Roadster never had a problem either, I imagine that I either drive the M harder or there's something about the older suspension that makes it more prominent.

Definitely torqued to the right amount, I have a Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench (highly recommended).

Here's a picture of Roffle's (broken) strut mount, notice that it's a regular nut:



Here's a picture of the new style mounts with one time use bolts, courtesy of Ron Stygar:

[beta]

Edit: This mod was removed when I installed the Autosolutions SSK.

This mod might be a bit controversial. Most people on here when they think heavier shifter they go for ZHP. I didn't want the ZHP shifter because I like the height of the stock shifter, didn't like the chrome ring on the bottom, and didn't want to pay a lot of money to have the illumination retrofitted in.

So to make the shifter a bit heavier I figured I'd try lead tape. If it didn't work out it is a simple enough mod to undo.



The stock shifter sits at about 3 ounces, while the ZHP shifter is about 5.3 ounces. I weighed the roll of lead tape and it came in at 7 ounces. I knew I didn't want to exceed 8 ounces. So I marked half way on the roll (3.5 ounces), which would put me roughly at 6.5 ounces total.

I wanted to go a bit heavier than ZHP, since I'd be putting the mass lower on the lever, so the effect wouldn't be as dramatic as when you have all the weight at the top.



My fingers are a bit clumsy, my girlfriend saw me struggling and offered to help me out, she did a great job



After wrapping all the tape.



All reassembled you can't tell that there's any change.



All said I'm happy with this mod. The difference is subtle but it definitely makes shifting feel more solid. For a few bucks I think it was definitely worth it.

[ZStig]

good stuff

[inTgr8r]

Nice mod blog.
I like the 1st post index

[beta]

First up, this thread was the most helpful to me for this mod. Definitely refer to that post for detailed instructions.

If you want black covers, here are the part numbers:

1. 54347117745 - Wind deflector kit.
2. 51438040735 - Black cover left 01
3. 51438040736 - Black cover right 01
4. 51438040739 - Black cover left 02
5. 51438040740 - Black cover right 02
6. 54347117751 - Frame Trunk holder

The thread linked above contains the numbers for the regular silver roll bar covers.

Here is a picture of a roll bar cover, notice they come pre-drilled for the deflector. If you are very careful you could just buy the center piece and drill it and not have to buy the replacement covers, which would make this mod significantly cheaper.



Seat belt guide taken apart.



Center pieces installed. Do note that these pieces only have mesh for looks, they actually acrylic covering them as well.



The trunk frame holders are optional is optional but this way if you take off your wind deflector you have a place to put it. First you put small plastic pieces so you have something to screw into (the bottom one is not in, it needs to sit flush like the top one).



And here are the frames installed.



Final result.



Finally a note on why I chose the mesh deflector. You can get acrylic deflectors for much less money, but according to BMW mesh works better. See this post.

'BMW found that pressure compensation between the interior of the vehicle and the air flowing around the exterior is essential if the anti buffet screen is to function optimally. For this reason a screen of webbed material proved to be superior to glass.'

Having said that, if BMW spent a bunch of money researching this and mesh was 0.1% better, you know marketing would tout how much "superior" it is. So take it with a grain of salt

[beta]

Unboxing the new suspension.



Akebono Euro Ceramics. Got tired of how much the stock brake pads dust. I would wash the car on sunday and by friday the rims would be black.



Additional parts. Left and middle are the top mounts for the rear shock towers. On the right are limiter shims for the rear trailing arm bushings. While addressing suspension upgrades it's a great idea to get both of these.

The rear mounts will re-enforce the rear shock towers and make it so you don't have to take apart your trunk to deal with suspension again, the limiter shims will allow your rear trailing bushings to last longer.



Getting ready for surgery.



Comparing old and new.



Fronts installed.



At this point the rears are also installed, and here are the new brake pads with high temp grease applied.



Final result. As much as I like a slammed car, with the car being my daily driver if I lowered it I'd be scraping my fangs everywhere. I dialed in the front at max height (about 0.5" lower than stock), and set the back so it'd be even. Still managed to scrape the fangs the other day.

[jon_y]

quick question, I am trying to install my aux right now and the pin on mine is different from yours, it has the needle at the tip. How do I remove it? thanks

[beta]

See realoem, looks like your pins are #2 when you need #1, but I really don't know. Where did you get your aux-in?

[jon_y]

Yeah, I definitely have #2. I got it from bavauto.com, I got the aux for the m3 partnumber is 82 11 0 149 391. I read it should be compatible with the z4. Not sure what to do now, I wonder if I have to change the whole tip then...

[beta]

You can order the pins from BMW, they'll come crimped on a length of cable and you'll have to splice it in. The pin type you have is the one that goes on the opposite connector (so one connector ends up with the small square type, and the other with pins).

[jon_y]

yeah, kinda sucks that it didn't come that way, going to order it and give it a try. thanks alot

[ZStig]

I can't figure out if your car is silver or bronze

[I M LEGEND]

Originally Posted by beta

Unboxing the new suspension.



Akebono Euro Ceramics. Got tired of how much the stock brake pads dust. I would wash the car on sunday and by friday the rims would be black.



Additional parts. Left and middle are the top mounts for the rear shock towers. On the right are limiter shims for the rear trailing arm bushings. While addressing suspension upgrades it's a great idea to get both of these.

The rear mounts will re-enforce the rear shock towers and make it so you don't have to take apart your trunk to deal with suspension again, the limiter shims will allow your rear trailing bushings to last longer.



Getting ready for surgery.



Comparing old and new.



Fronts installed.



At this point the rears are also installed, and here are the new brake pads with high temp grease applied.



Final result. As much as I like a slammed car, with the car being my daily driver if I lowered it I'd be scraping my fangs everywhere. I dialed in the front at max height (about 0.5" lower than stock), and set the back so it'd be even. Still managed to scrape the fangs the other day.

How are the Akebono pads? Same feel as OEM? Any noise?

[gcochard]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

I can't figure out if your car is silver or bronze

[beta]

Originally Posted by I M LEGEND

How are the Akebono pads? Same feel as OEM? Any noise?

So far they're great. Don't have the initial bite of the OEM pads, but to me that's a positive as it makes the pedal more linear; feels like it has the same stopping power (tried a couple 60-0 and felt good). Little to no dust and absolutely no noise so far.

[beta]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

I can't figure out if your car is silver or bronze

Also not sure if sarcasm, but for the record: bronze is the best color

[mpower03]

nice journal! I plan on doing one for mine. only thing is i have installed things and taken them off with mostly no pictures... so ill wait till i start getting a couple more things and be sure to take pics this time! lol

[phoenixbmwlife]

...

[beta]

Part Numbers:

Euro Cats 18307836633
Euro Headers (LHD) 11627833500, 11627833501

After installation the main thing you'll notice, besides the extra power, is the sound. The engine sound is slightly louder, but what I noticed the most is that at wide open throttle it adds a raspy white-noise type sound.

Headers and Cats coated by Zircotec in performance black.



Original headers and cats.





Ready for surgery.



Closeup with gaskets and coper fittings



All done.




Edit: Here are some additional pictures on how to route the O2s nicely.

The heat shield comes with the holes cut out, so no cutting should be required. I did not have the clips, but thankfully my shop had some clips in their bin of random parts.



The O2s are not long enough to reach when routed correctly. You can fashion some extenders (see crfine88s thread), or you can cut into the conduit. My shop had some great cloth tape which is the factory BMW tape. You need about an additional 10cm or so of wiring to reach the cats.



And one final picture.

[Z4MLover2012]

Great mods and beautiful car!

[beta]

Updated with O2 relocation pics. Thanks for the comment Z3MLover2012, sepang owners unite!