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06-27-2011, 10:45 PM | #156 |
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some info I found along the way
"50/50 wouldn't be as bad as straight 100% meth, but there really isn't a need to worry about either. Keep in mind, most research papers and wikipedia are going to be talking about meth and aluminum solely. The gas that your car runs off of will be left out of that equation. So even those who run 100% meth injection, still don't run 100% meth as the only fuel source, it's supplemental to the gasoline in your tank. Slowcar has posted some very good links to video that show a good meth spray vs. a bad meth spray. The bad spray sorta dribbles afterwards, and I can see how some methanol would pool in your intake piping and possibly intake manifold. But for a very, very short time only. The intake manifold runs relatively hot, as it absorbs a lot of the heat off the head. Any meth that tries to pool is going to be vaporized lickity split. Your intake pipes will run cooler, but there is still enough underhood heat and major airflow through your pipes to vaporize any meth and send it on it's way through the engine. That small dribble from some meth systems after they spray just won't be around long enough to cause any corrosion issues. Some people have mounted their spray nozzle into the intake piping at a lower point than their storage bottle, and have experienced draining the meth into the intake piping and it sits overnight. If this happens, you don't need to worry about corrosion, you'll have bigger things to worry about when you try to start the car. But either of these issues can be avoided with a good system and proper installation. Who blasts up their driveway under full boost and meth spraying, just to immediately shut their car down when they come to a screeching halt? I mean it's simple car maintenance to let the turbo cool a little after you've been hard on the car and in boost. So you'll either cruise under light load or let the car idle for awhile right? Well, that same habit will clear any meth pools that could have formed in your intake tract. Another way to look at it.... I drive about 1.5 hrs to get to and from work. I spray meth at anything over about 10#'s of boost. My meth light may be one for a full minute on an average day, 2 minutes tops if I'm really driving like an a$$. The other 88 minutes of engine run time is purging out any possible leftover meth from the previous spray episode. Yes, meth is corrosive to aluminum, but it's a slow corrosion rate to begin with. Couple that with the minimal amount of time that meth is actually being sprayed or possibly in contact on aluminum parts while you drive, and it's really not an issue at all. "
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06-28-2011, 04:30 AM | #157 |
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nice info roffle...... definatly try your kit without the meth..... honestly, i think we'd be better off looking into ways to lower the MASSIVE underbonnet heat, these s/c car NEED a vented bonnet......
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06-28-2011, 11:09 PM | #158 |
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i totally agree with you about a hood.
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08-26-2011, 12:16 PM | #160 |
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So, question: what is it about excess heat that causes such a dramatic power loss, one that seems greater than the mere density loss of the charge?
Could it be that our stock heat range spark plugs are getting too hot and actually causing pre-ignition, forcing the DME to pull timing? This is actually a likely scenario for using stock heat range plugs with a S/C setup, from what I've read. Nonetheless, ESS recommends nothing but stock plugs. |
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08-26-2011, 01:50 PM | #161 | |
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Quote:
the stock plugs are a high end item and work perfectly in this application, i genuinely see no reason to change them out, as said ess have no reason to not supply a new plug and charge for it if i was needed. heat soak is heat soak, FI cars suffer from it, the new 1m really suffers from it.... a warm charge will simply cause less power, thats why on cooler days you can really feel the power difference. id love to know the difference in AIT from a complete stock car at the intake mani and our intercooled cars at the mani..... here in cold ass england i dont see heatsoak often, perfect FI climate. byron
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08-26-2011, 01:51 PM | #162 |
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fr8t i miss you bro...... im guessing you sold the car :-(
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08-26-2011, 04:33 PM | #165 |
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the tune needs to lean out quite abit to get the best out of meth/water injection.
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08-26-2011, 04:37 PM | #166 |
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hmm, on the e46 thread posted, the tuner says that they didn't touch the A/F ratio, and only messed with the AEM kit's progession settings. IIRC, FR8dog used 2psi at start and 6psi at end, and lost power up top with the 8psi pulley. Maybe this kit wants something like 2psi at start and 4-5psi up top?
I might take my chances...worst case scenario, if I lose power up top, I'll just not use the installed kit until I can get the A/F ratios tuned...
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08-27-2011, 08:37 AM | #167 |
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our AFRs are perfect for the standalone kit, if we start changing the tune, your using meth as a supplement ;-) youll loose your much valued ess warranty :-) i for one im glad its in place, especially after needed a brand new s/c unit and getting it replaced on my warranty :-)
Afrs are nice and rich and very safe.....just the way i want them to protect my lovely s54..... AFRs towards to low 12s are where this engine makes most power so i can see Ess went real conservative on the tune, personally i wish we could data log and get ESS to custom tune for us specific to our cars, similar to what the cpbb AP does for the GTR owners ;-) i however "WANT" the flash loader and id like to see what ess can do for me tune wise.
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Z4MR VT2 - Clubsport build.
Multi award winning Detailing | Wrap | PPF specialists UK based - www.topwrapz.com Last edited by Beedub; 08-29-2011 at 03:54 PM.. |
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