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03-31-2016, 06:03 PM | #1 |
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DKF Hanger to the Rescue
I got a great deal on a Stromung exhaust from a forum member, and I have loved the pops and gurgles and the sound, but I was getting some loud drone under initial heavy load just below 3K RPM, and then when in 5th and 6th under light load, I would get a light drone. Having read that sometimes loosening the stock nuts/bolts helped with drone, I tried to loosen the OEM hanger bolts and was shocked how tightly they had been torqued down. I couldn't budge them with a wrench (spanner), and it took some real torque with a longer ratchet to break them free. I also noticed the bolt on the stock hanger was twisted to one side and was twisting the rubber of the OEM mount.
I had previously bought some DKF hangers from another forum member, and since the stock hangers were being stressed, I decided to try to tackle it without a lift. I didn't even jack up the car. It's tight, but do-able. I installed the DKF hangers with the heavier-duty isolators and was sure not to over-tighten any of the nuts. After a bit of swearing, it was done. It was starting to rain, so I didn't go far, but initial impressions are a HUGE improvement. Virtually all drone has been removed. Woohoo!! Salty
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03-31-2016, 06:44 PM | #3 |
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I was wondering how stromung would hold up with some DKF hangars. I think there are a couple like set ups out there, but that gives me hope for a no drone and good sounding solution!
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04-01-2016, 08:06 AM | #4 |
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I don't think it made any substantial change in my setup regarding drone. I might've over tightened the bolt though. I found the drone was usually the worst on really cold days or when it was raining outside. Haven't driven car in either conditions in a long time now.
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04-01-2016, 06:00 PM | #5 |
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Granted I have only had the /M for 6000 miles, but I find almost zero drone/rasp on the Stromung setup which I bought new. I previously ran the RPI noise cannons and that was headache inducing in the 2200-4000 rpm range.
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04-02-2016, 07:43 AM | #6 |
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FWIW, I added a rubber isolator between the OE hanger and chassis and It helped somewhat.
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04-02-2016, 08:04 AM | #7 | |
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I think the main issue with my OEM hanger installation was that in an attempt to get the tips aligned, the guy that installed mine put the OEM hangers in a bound/twisted position, and everything was torqued down very tight, and that was allowing some of the vibration to transfer to the body. Well, that's the theory, anyway. Salty
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04-02-2016, 08:06 AM | #8 | |
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04-02-2016, 10:42 AM | #9 | |
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I sold my DKFs before I had a chance to try the better isolators. I also sold my RPI, so drone was no longer a problem DKF are definitely nice for adjustment because you can get the isolator in a near no load position. For OE I find it easiest to fasten the hanger first then adjust the tips. With the donut clamp snug, I use a floor Jack to raise the tips to the right height and use a rubber hammer to whack the donut clamp side to side for adjustment. Then finish tightening the donut clamp.
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04-02-2016, 01:56 PM | #10 | ||
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04-02-2016, 09:06 PM | #11 |
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For the first muffler, I took it completely off to add the DKF hanger. The second one, I removed the bolts from the flange clamp on the x-pipe, then dropped the OEM hanger that the DKF replaces. That allowed the muffler to angle down enough to mount the new DKF hanger. I then realized I needed to cut off the welded nut on the Stromung, so I whipped out an angle grinder with a cutting wheel and did that under the car. I was doing all of this in my garage without a lift and without the car even being on jacks or ramps. Nothing blew up.
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