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04-18-2009, 10:07 PM | #45 |
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Just completed cdv change over and it was a little tougher than I thought.
Here are my thoughts: 1.) 2 person job 2.) The tube recommended in the write up should be expanded to include a brake bleeder bottle. 3.) Obvious point but brake reservoir is the clutch fluidreservoir. 4.) Use Dot 4 fluid or better. it said it on the top of the brake reservoir but it still might be a question and the owners manual is crap. 5.) You may loose a lot of fluid initially from the slave, even with the hose clamped from the reservoir. I don't know if this because I had the front tires on ramps and the angle of the slave. I used 8 onces of new brake fluid. 6.) use 7mm wrench to open and close nipple each time. Hand tite may let air thru between pedal pumps. 7.) It may take quite a few pumps of the pedal to get all the air out so be patient. follow dirrections from earlier zpost's to close nipple on down stroke. Drives a lot smoother so I am happy with the change out. I also used white nail polish to match old cdv mark just in case.
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04-20-2009, 02:07 PM | #46 |
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Nice tips Even with the color coding, haha!
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09-12-2009, 07:00 PM | #47 |
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09-12-2009, 07:38 PM | #48 |
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Going back off-topic about the V1 - I did not find a switched power source in the over head console on my '06 ///MR. At first I thought I did, but it ended up being the power to the 2 LEDs that shine down on the shifter. So I ended up running the wire down under the ashtray/switch console & placing the power adapter there as there is plenty of space. I tapped into the wiring harness of the radio for a switched source. I then continued the V1 wire above the steering column where I have the remote display module.
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09-12-2009, 07:44 PM | #49 |
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Not a chance.
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09-13-2009, 01:02 PM | #50 |
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09-14-2009, 08:02 AM | #51 |
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Do you really think many are going to have the same experience as you? Do you think others should risk that move? What is now in your dealership records?
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09-14-2009, 12:32 PM | #52 |
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ohh he totally ripped you off. this procedure is something you can do on your own and it shouldn't take you more than half an hour to get it done.
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09-14-2009, 05:06 PM | #53 | |
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My receipt says: "Customer request to install clutch reducer, installed customer supplied reducer and bled clutch system". Nothing there says it voided my warranty. |
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09-15-2009, 02:51 AM | #55 |
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"Clutch reducer"?? Whoever called it that at the stealership is a tool. And, that does NOT sound like something you want documented in your car's service history. Sounds like something designed to "reduce" the life of your clutch. Good luck with any future warranty claim. Fortunately, the clutch should last well beyond the warranty, if it's not being abused.
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09-15-2009, 10:35 PM | #56 |
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Does the clutch HAVE to be bleed? I clamped the line at the resevoir and at the CDV and lost a tiny bit of fluid. Put it back together and the clutch seemed to function fine. Should I go back and bleed it?
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09-16-2009, 08:11 AM | #57 |
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Absolutely. You've just introduced some air the length of which is the lock valve itself. Bleed it or you may experience problems down the road.
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09-16-2009, 08:12 AM | #58 | |
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Quote:
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09-16-2009, 09:17 PM | #60 |
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The 1st -> 2nd grind, the notchiness.
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09-17-2009, 11:10 AM | #61 |
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The operator error.
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09-19-2009, 12:15 AM | #62 |
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Maybe yours isn't notchy into 2nd, but mine sure as hell is. CDV removal has not changed it, I'm not sure it's really worth removing but IMO it is mostly noticeable when modulating the clutch starting from a stop or parking.
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