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11-25-2017, 04:50 PM | #45 |
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And as epic as we are all picturing...
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11-26-2017, 08:41 AM | #46 | |
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The insides are so pretty doesn't it just make you cringe to know you eventually will fire the thing up... And... I thought I made myself a nice shop. I'm slightly jealous.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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12-04-2017, 05:41 PM | #47 | |
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+1
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So: finally some more progress. I'm still not where I want to be, but between need-to-do items around the house, work demands, and preparing for a bit of a trip (3 weeks in Ecuador - motorcycling, diving in the Galapagos, and spending time in the Amazon), my free time has been close to nil. I did get the head installed yesterday, though. The bit of soreness in my back and shoulders today (along with a bruise on my palm) is a good indication of how much work it is to torque and triple-check 14 nuts to 105ft-lbs. I did a little bit of math, just for giggles: 35ft-lbs x 14 x 2 (double-checked): 980ft-lbs 70ft-lbs x 14 x 2 (double-checked): 1,960ft-lbs 105ft-lbs x 14 x 3 (triple-checked): 4,410ft-lbs Total: 7,380ft-lbs of torque applied to head nuts. Next time I'm upgrading from the 18" ratchet to a 24". The install / torque process was very straightforward. ARP specifies a 3-stage torque (per above: 35, 70, 105 ft-lb steps) for lubricated washers / nuts / studs. Minor note for posterity: if you have a stripped head, your life will be easier if you re-install the galley plugs before installing the cam follower shafts. I have long hex bits (~6" shafts on the bits), and they barely cleared the follower shafts - I had to use them at a slight angle to avoid contact. Not a huge deal, but a good thing to know. Also: it's really hard to get some of the nuts to 105ft-lbs on a wheeled engine stand. I ended up doing some fun contortions to keep my body weight low, the socket upright, and the engine stand planted. As always, some S54 porn: n.b. the engine isn't actually drooping that dramatically on the stand, it's just a perspective trick from the wide angle of the iPhone lens. I think. |
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12-30-2017, 01:57 AM | #48 |
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MAJOR PROGRESS ALERT
The cams are in - hopefully for the last time: Cams prepped for VANOS: Cam gears: Full timing system: Timing cover / VANOS drive / timing chain: VARIABLE NOCKEN WELLEN STUERUNG Front crank seal: And then.. what's this? It is fully. Mechanically. Timed. So I adjusted the valve clearance where required: And put a fucking cap on it. Things I Learned Today(tm):
I have new harmonic balancer bolts coming along with an underdrive crank pulley. Why not, right? A/C is already deleted, after all. Planning to button up the sump tomorrow, and hopefully prep the front subframe for install. Maybe even get the flywheel / clutch installed! Still need to sort out fuel line under the hood, but might be ready to get the engine back in the car next weekend... :woop: Last edited by mattfwalters; 12-30-2017 at 01:41 PM.. |
12-31-2017, 01:40 AM | #49 |
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Minor additional progress today.
Hardline -> -8AN: Re-sumped: Definitely getting there. Time to bolt up the rest of the sensors (crank angle + knock sensors), main water pipe, fuel rail, oil / water pumps, and accessories... |
12-31-2017, 03:52 AM | #50 |
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loving the progress, thanks for sharing...
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12-31-2017, 10:24 PM | #51 |
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01-01-2018, 12:59 PM | #52 |
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the oil pan on this car is a crazy shape....
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01-02-2018, 02:56 AM | #53 |
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Spent a lot of time cleaning the throttle bodies, so didn't get much other than the TBs and oil manifold installed this evening. Really starting to look like an engine, though. |
01-08-2018, 03:34 AM | #54 |
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Fuel rail and vacuum manifold are installed, along with braided stainless hose for VANOS oil accumulator, Achilles underdrive pulley, and the rest of the throttle assembly (including TBW actuator):
Doesn't seem like a lot of progress, but I'm pretty much putting this bastard in the car next. After I get the exhaust manifold studs and nuts, anyway. And also ordering the CSL dipstick and tube, because I'm a moron and forgot to do that, like, a year ago. |
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01-10-2018, 05:13 PM | #55 |
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So this is definitely not going to appear on BAT any time soon, then?
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01-11-2018, 02:23 AM | #56 |
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01-12-2018, 10:09 AM | #58 |
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01-12-2018, 01:27 PM | #59 |
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Agreed. I was one of those asking hard questions about it, specifically the fact that the valve cover had never been off. I thought that brought a good response (leakdown test). I also tried to balance it with high praise for the platform.
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01-12-2018, 05:40 PM | #60 |
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01-17-2018, 02:33 PM | #62 |
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how do you feel about the new vanos line??? i was slightly concerned when i saw the recommended interval for replacement every 12 months!!!!! especially when the stock hardline has lasted a decade in most z4m applications !
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01-18-2018, 03:52 AM | #63 | |
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Riiiiiiiiight.... (I'm not worried. Seems like quality construction. ) |
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01-21-2018, 12:06 PM | #64 |
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any reason why you didn't upgrade the vanos hub while this was all out???? i'd have been very tempted with one of the larger tab offering units. Great great pics btw the s54 sure is a porn fest for any petrol head!!
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01-22-2018, 09:22 AM | #66 |
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let us know how you get on with it, i know the hubs are stupid money but the stock ones are clearly a weakness, im not sure the re-drilled disk really is a solution as they still seem to break!! Their is simply not enough material on those tabs !
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