Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael9218
This article provides a good explanation for you on why you should run oil over 212f and also supports the premise that running synthetic oil over 300f is acceptable.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/
Highlights:
For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 220 degrees F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. For every pound of fuel burned in an engine, the combustion process also generates a pound of water! If engine sump temperatures rarely exceed 212 degrees (water’s boiling point), the water will mix with sulfur (another combustion by-product) and create acids that can eventually damage bearings.
As for ultimate power potential, the general consensus among most racers is that hot oil and cool water make more power in most engines. Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees. Even on a short-duration, drag-only combo where oil is frequently changed, I would not want to routinely see under-200-degree oil temps.
A full-synthetic oil will withstand sump temperatures in excess of 300 degrees, and for hard-core professional racing, some oval-track race teams are experimenting with ultra-thin, specially formulated, race-only synthetics operating at 350 degrees or even higher. |
Article points out water boils at 212 but at pressure, like your oil system, the boiling point is higher. Also unclear to me why it has to get to boiling temperature to remove the water. Take a pan of any liquid and heat it up and the water evaporates even if it doesn't boil. Rate of evaporation is low at low temperatures (or stops in a closed system) and speeds up as the temperature rises. It will be really slow at 50F and much faster at 200F. I think water simmering is at less than 200 and you can see the water leaving the pan.
Not saying the temperatures in the article are wrong just questioning how they determined these numbers.
Last, not sure where the oil temperature is reading but if the pan I would expect this is the lowest temperature of the system and the oil with water in it is seeing a higher temperature than this as it circulates (guess).
I don't know what deposits are burning at 220F as this is pretty low for a solid to burn.