Quote:
Originally Posted by aestheticstorm
Hack, so in general, what you're saying is we want camber bolts 90% of the time when we add offset up front? What about rear?
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The issue here is directly related to the wheels that steer a car, so unless it's a 4 wheel steering vehicle, steering angle inclination and scrub radius has little to do with the rear wheels.
In general, what I am saying is measure, test, and adjust. The issue with camber bolt is that it brings the top of the wheel/tire closer to the strut and you lose clearance, so there are cases where camber bolts aren't ideal, especially if you intend to run super wide tires up front.
So the real problem with tinkering with the front suspension is, it's all inter-related. If you add camber bolts, you may want to alter the offset to allow more clearance inside, but by doing so you may potentially increase the scrub radius enough to impact steering and grip up front.
Ultimately, the added grip with wider tires up front may trump the smaller effect of poor scrub radius and allow you to go faster. That's why I always say, suspension tuning is a series of finding compromises. My current compromise seems to be 245/40/18 tires up front with -2.5 degrees of negative camber, slight (1/16 total) toe-out, with 2 washers on the camber bolt and ~stock-ish ride height, and factory off-set. This seems to work very well for me after about 20 days worth of tinkering on the track.