Resurrecting this thread. I just did this install, but since I was pulling the gearbox I did things a bit differently. Reading over the original instructions here, there are a couple of things I'd modify, and a couple I'd add -- perhaps due to Ron adding bits to the newer kits.
An alternative to custom tooling for the exhaust work is to disconnect the back end of the exhaust at the mufflers, perhaps even dropping the mufflers as well (I left them in place). MUCH easier access to the bolts in that location. It does mean dropping the rear stress plate and braces but those go off and on pretty quickly. The bolts are supposed to be replaced but a lot of people reuse them 1 or 2 times before replacing. The reason they're supposed to be replaced is because they're torqued to 59Nm AND THEN another 90 degrees. They stretch. Be prepared with leverage if you choose this option.
I was able to remove the shift arm with the gear lever in place, without removing the rear mount. I would try that first before fabricating tools to remove the rear mount.
I had the gearbox on the bench for removal of the brass "spawn of satan" connector to the shift rod that goes into the gearbox. It. Still. Was. A. Bitch. I don't know how I'd do it in the car! But one idea might be to drop the driveshaft center bearing, put a jack under the gearbox, then remove the 4 nuts holding the transmission mount. Lower slowly, revel in the extra accessibility. Note that the center bearing needs to be preloaded upon reinstallation; push the center bearing mount towards the gearbox a couple of millimeters before tightening it down.
The kit I received included a new, Ron-made connecting rod between the lever and the gearbox selector shaft. It includes lovely bronze bushes which improve precision even more, and it eliminates all the stuff about modifying washers. Oh and it uses C-clips instead of devil's clips.
I also received delrin bushings for the front of the shift arm, where it connects to the gearbox. They also have lovely bronze bushes, and are a tight fit up there -- both into the gearbox ears and for getting the pins back in. I used a little bit of synthetic grease to help get the front of the arm started, then I used an aligning tool with a 90 degree bend to line up the holes. It is a bit fiddly. But worth it.
I installed a new rear mount before wiggling the shifter arm + lever back in. Kinda wish I had reviewed this first. I think reassembly would have been easier. So, before reinstallation, assemble the arm and the rear mount as described here. The rear mount comes out pretty easily without special tools once the shift arm is out of the way.