Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim
Should there be a resistor on the line returning to battery positive between the switches and fuse? Either by adding one or by moving the one for the big green diode to right before the fuse connector. Tracing out the line, it looks like there is no resistor between the battery and the Vanos solenoids.
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Not really, under the probably safe assumption that the solenoids are meant to run at 12-15 V. You use a resistor between the source and the solenoid/relay coil when the source voltage is greater than the rated coil voltage. For instance, if you want to run a 5 Vdc relay in your car, put a resistor in series that's twice the coil resistance. 2/3 of the voltage falls across the resistor, and 1/3 across the coil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim
Could you confirm that I'm reading the circuit right. Positioning the switch to position 4 allows a parallel path for electron flow from the negative battery terminal through the individual green diode/resistor and from pin 6 (individual solenoid) through the switch and back to battery positive. Any other switch position works the same way.
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The "diodes" inside circles are LEDs. Yes, power will flow to the corresponding Vanos solenoid and the LED. The LEDs are mostly eye candy, and tell you the switch isn't broke.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim
Also, have you used this on your car yet?
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Not yet, but the Beisan rebuild is on my list.
Also, note the post from O-cha. The Vanos coils are meant to be intermittently operated. Don't lay on the switches for a long time and overheat them.
And an addendum to the build. I found that Pep Boys has more dainty battery clips.
More like the ones on the BMW cable than the honkin' jumper cable clamps I bought.
They're on my shopping list for my next trip to Pep Boys.