Figured I might as well start a new thread here instead of clogging up the "DIY" ones for removing the soft top or the motor. Sorry for the length, but trying to be as detailed as possible to not only help people provide a useful response but also for when the next person who has this issue comes across this posting.
Original Issue: Power top motor does not lower or raise the soft top.
1. When fully up and latched, holding the open button would drop windows part way down (if up) and unlatch the top's locks but then nothing. Pushing top down manually was done (no resistance) to get it open / down and in locking position. Holding the open button again would lock it down. Red lights go out.
2. When fully down and locked, holding close button would unlock it but would not move. Pushed the black manual release button and then raise is manually (again, no resistance) to up and closed position. Holding close button again would latch it. Red lights go out.
Suspecting bad motor due to water damage (most common cause), with other functions appearing normal and knowing the trunk shelf floor switch was ok, decided to tackle the R&R motor task. Using Shipkiller's DIY, went like clock work and had it out in under 2 hours.
However, motor and it's case was not in condition I thought it would be in. Bone dry, no signs of corrosion anywhere. The only thing I noticed was that the reservoir looked empty (but was in fact really low). Opted to replace motor.
BTW, the "new" motor does in fact come with pre-stamped numbers for the hydraulic lines but I opted to do a position match swap to keep things in sync. And to my surprise the new motor's pre-drilled holes for mounting the "Bowden cable" bracket were too damn small for the old screws to go in. WTF? Had to find other screws to work (but broke one in process however I got that bracket secured!)
Post motor swap, top installed (not fully, just bolted in), after reconnecting battery tried it again and.....
FAIL. Same situation, only "worse".
Current Issue
1. When fully down and unlocked, holding close button does nothing. No need to push the black manual release button because it's not locked. I can raise it manually (without resistance) to up and closed position. Holding close button again would latch it. Red lights go out.
2. When fully up and latched, holding the open button does not drop windows part way down any more (FIXED), the locks unlatch and then nothing. Pushing top down manually I get to about 3/4 then hit resistance. I now need to pull infamous red handle in the trunk that moves a whole 15 feet (give or take 14 feet, 11 and 7/8 inches). Top now goes all the way down. However, holding the open button again does not lock it down any more, AND the red lights do not go out.
At this point, this appears to introduce another potential cause for these tops to fail as first described,
where the motor is not the problem. I'm stuck right now with what to try or troubleshoot next. I'm thinking I have to pull it out again to check the "Hall Effect" switches, whatever those are (I thought Hall Effect was a setting on my home stereo), or "bleed" the closed system somehow, or ???
{edit} CAUSE: system was low on fluid due to leak as described below.
Dave
btw - old motor is fine - will put it up for sale.