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      08-07-2013, 10:22 AM   #1
inTgr8r
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Battery charger during code/progamming changes

OK this is a pretty straight forward topic on the what is needed in the way of a battery charger during code changes. (size)

I noticed Ship's post about using a big ass charger when he makes code changes.
It got me thinking what is really needed?

The only thing I have right now is a battery tender & last thing I want is to run out of juice during a session.

Thoughts, recommendations, anyone have any problems?

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      08-07-2013, 11:18 AM   #2
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When I flashed my software I used the older version of the below battery charger from Canadian Tire. Never missed a beat and it took approx 1-1.5hrs to do start to finish.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en
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      08-07-2013, 04:28 PM   #3
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The proper tool would be something that would maintain a set voltage. Battery chargers don't necessarily do that. I haven't done any coding on my car yet because I don't have a proper charger. Here is a Schumacher INC-700A (they run around $375):



This is a recommended charger on Bimmerforums in their Diagnostics section. Not knowing how many amps our cars draw during a session I would err on the too much capacity side. I certainly would not do anybody's car without one and I wouldn't do big stuff on my car without one.
There might be a way to set up some ham radio equipment voltage regulators that would regulate voltage at the required amps. But I don't have any further info on that.

I really want to get rid of my yellow lights and was excited to see Shipkiller's post, but I don't think I'll do anything for a while since there are other things I want to do that take priority over coding.
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      08-07-2013, 05:14 PM   #4
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I've done plenty of coding and use a Battery Minder set on 8 amps. This has worked fine for everything I've done, voltage never drops below 13 volts. Plus it's a maintainer, desulphator and has rejuvenated many a battery that were near end of life. If I just need to code one module, say the LZM, I don't even bother putting the charger on, it only takes a few seconds and if you have a good battery, you should be okay.
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      08-07-2013, 05:22 PM   #5
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Good feedback guys. Thanks
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      08-07-2013, 08:39 PM   #6
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Just make sure it's hooked directly onto the battery itself, and not on the post under the hood of the car. I'll see if I can find the instructions for my Shark Injector.
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      08-07-2013, 09:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches View Post
Just make sure it's hooked directly onto the battery itself, and not on the post under the hood of the car. I'll see if I can find the instructions for my Shark Injector.
Why make the connection on the battery and not under the hood?
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      08-07-2013, 10:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pungo
I've done plenty of coding and use a Battery Minder set on 8 amps. This has worked fine for everything I've done, voltage never drops below 13 volts. Plus it's a maintainer, desulphator and has rejuvenated many a battery that were near end of life. If I just need to code one module, say the LZM, I don't even bother putting the charger on, it only takes a few seconds and if you have a good battery, you should be okay.
This.

Tender is all u need. My ESS Directflash is TURTLE slow and I've never had an issue. Diablo Predator, Trinity, Cobb have all worked just fine on battery tenders.
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      08-07-2013, 11:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pungo View Post
Why make the connection on the battery and not under the hood?
1. I'm not sure what's in line between the under-hood connection and the battery itself, and any interruption in power could brick the ECU. Eliminate the unknown and connect directly to the battery.

2. I tried the under-hood connection multiple times with my Shark Injector without success. At first I thought it was my charger, but according to the instructions the charger's specifications met all of the requirements. Before returning the charger, I decided to try one more time by connecting directly to the battery. It worked. The Shark Injector has built in safety measures which will not allow it to begin the write process unless certain conditions are met.

I could be totally off here, and the under-hood connection could be nothing more than a direct connection to the battery terminal.
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