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      01-21-2013, 08:23 PM   #23
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sleek pod, where did you get that?
I had it custom made.
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      01-21-2013, 09:06 PM   #24
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I had it custom made.
baller $$$$
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      02-03-2013, 04:46 PM   #25
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Continued - wiring harness and vac/boost hose

Got the wiring all ready - its green with blue for the switched 12v+ on and run. Gray and REd for the dimmer - Brown is ground - found a rubber grommet in firewall to put the hosing through - fed it up to the back of the area for the gauge - should be here soon and will be cutting the hole in the dash cover.

To get a mounting spot that will be flat and stable you have to grind off a tab on the back and some of the mould casting bumps on the aluminum. Can use a grinder to remove it but be careful of the heat - doesn't get as hot as fast as steel, but can get VERY hot slowly and if you melt the vinyl covering you will not be happy. At least I didn't cut the hell out of any that one can see

Have measured hopefully for best placement of gauge and will cut final hole in cover with a hole saw drill - same as doing a door knob in a metal door. Have to cut the covering so the it can be folded down into the hole to get a great seal around the gauge. Will have to cut a box out of the dash under the cover as well.

Will show how next post.
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      02-04-2013, 03:59 PM   #26
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>>>>>P3CARS<<<<<


Check this site, I've sent them an email. Soon they also have this gauge for the E85... Can't wait.

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      02-04-2013, 04:35 PM   #27
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>>>>>P3CARS<<<<<


Check this site, I've sent them an email. Soon they also have this gauge for the E85... Can't wait.
That is really awesome, it will even time your 0-60 runs, rpm + shift lights, and read and clear codes. You could even pick up a OBD2 splitter so that the install is inside the dash and you still have an accessible port.

Let us know when they make one for E85/E86, I might pick one up even though I'm not boosted.
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      02-04-2013, 05:02 PM   #28
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Continuing in dash mount - previous message

Well I would except this whole thread is about me trying to get an analog boost gauge in my FI M as I hate digital anything - not sure if this adds or detracts from the story but its a little strange to stick it in here !! ff topic:


Anyway - cut out the area behind the dash panel and it is made of plastic with a covering of foam covered vinyl - funny since the panel is aluminum.

In any case it's gonna be a tight fit - have a cover that I uses as a model for the gauge and placed it in the are for mounting and stuck it to inside of panel with double sided tape to centre the gauge - started pilot hole through the aluminum and used a very small nail to get it centred on the outside - traced the outline at 2" and will cut back the vinyl before using the hole saw - will leave last part till I have gauge in hand and it works following hook up BEFORE cutting a hole.
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      02-04-2013, 06:37 PM   #29
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point of no return!
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      02-04-2013, 07:24 PM   #30
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Only thing scarier was cutting out through the sides and roof of a van to put in Windows and air vents - sure as hell it was --measure twice - cut once - measure again - pray - cut and see !!
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      02-05-2013, 04:46 PM   #31
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Nearing the end = connecting gauge

Gauge arrived - tried to take a pic before mounted and as the needle is in the upright position with no power it hides the M Emblem they put on = looks good. Speedhut has it in stock and same colour lights as M.

Now - how to drive yourself nuts - wired in the gauge wring harness with no connectors to make sure it worked = nothing - then all my lights went off @ WTF. Gauge was buzzing so pulled all wires, checked 20 fuses, re read wiring diagram - checked colours I used for leads - back and forth inside the car - then re-placed the wired in the correct sockets and for 3 seconds the lights came on= then they all went out again - Ready to tear the dash apart -- wait - put the voltmeter in the connections to see if I had swapped the constant power for the dimmer - read 4 volts so - nope thats the constant - THEN LIGHTBULB _ literally - battery is half dead = nothing works with low voltage headlights won't light - dash is off !!!

Put on charger - lights work - dimmer on gauge works = gauge centres.

So hooked up the electronic boost/vacuum sensor and it seemed to work when I started the car - read vacuum till I revved it a bit and then up to 0-1. I believe that the gauge wil not give accurate reading unless engine is under a load

SO - NEXT JOB -CUT THE HOLE !!!
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      02-06-2013, 01:13 AM   #32
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Nice! I just ordered my Speed Hut gauges (10 psi boost / oil temp) with an AEM wideband failsafe (necessary for the custom route I'm planning to take). Thanks for posting them on here. I've been looking for about a year for the perfect setup for my non-M. My other setup, radar-mirror.com AEM wideband/boost, has been destined to go in the M.
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      02-06-2013, 10:13 AM   #33
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Nice! I just ordered my Speed Hut gauges (10 psi boost / oil temp) with an AEM wideband failsafe (necessary for the custom route I'm planning to take). Thanks for posting them on here. I've been looking for about a year for the perfect setup for my non-M. My other setup, radar-mirror.com AEM wideband/boost, has been destined to go in the M.
So Pokey, where are you going to mount your non-M gauges?
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      02-06-2013, 11:10 AM   #34
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So Pokey, where are you going to mount your non-M gauges?
3D Design ash tray pod, and pending the results of this thread, I might mount a gauge in the same place as the OP. Non-M's really need four gauges IMHO - oil pressure, oil temp, boost, and AFR. While the AEM failsafe has both boost and AFR readouts, I'm not sure the boost resolution is there for those of us running 6-10 psi, and I prefer an analog needle for certain things. The pod with an additional dash gauge would be perfect in that it would provide four spots.

A little OT - I checked out Speed Hut thanks to this thread. They have some awesome customization options. The more I think about it, the more I'm inclined to side with OP as far as wanting analog gauges. I've always been drawn to knobs over push buttons, and swinging needles over a digital readout. It's much easier to glance down and immediately know if things are normal by the position of the needle. Digital gauges require an extra step of mental processing, unless they have a sweeping LED (which still isn't as good as a needle). If you set up your gauges properly, all the needles should point in the same direction during normal conditions - for example, 12 o'clock is normal operating temp for oil and coolant, and the oil pressure median is around 12 o'clock. When you look down, all needles should be pointing towards 12 o'clock. You can quickly determine if a needle is out of place, and if the reading is high or low. You could use any value for the normal conditions (9 o'clock is common in aircraft), just make sure all the gauges are oriented the same direction. I'd say the exception is for wideband, because we're programmed to want to see a specific number. With the Speed Hut gauges, I'm able to customize gauges that point a specific direction during normal operation, based on scale and range. Oh yeah, it helps that you can add your own logo. VF Engineering will be getting free advertising out of my gauge setup . I don't know why supercharger companies don't offer the option of purchasing a boost gauge with their logo on it.
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      02-06-2013, 08:22 PM   #35
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Thank God - Done and works.

Done - hairiest part cutting the dash panel - it is vinyl on wood veneer glued to aluminum. I cut the outside like a pie so that I could fold it in all around the face of the gauge so it looks neater than cutting out a circle.

I drilled from the back to the wooden under base which means go slow -very slow and when to the wood (you can see it in the pic around the aluminum disc.)you can trim it from the outside with a box cutter. Then tuck in the cut edges of the vinyl and tighten up the retainer on the back - test fit before you get to far on the dash and as before may as well check out the workings before putting the dash back together. Also make sure you are happy with the level of the gauge and then tighten it down.

The opening in the dash panel is about 1/8" flexible in side to side - little more up and down but the fit is TIGHT and everything has to be cut properly and well measured or you can F up your dash and the plastic behind a LOT. The gauge body is 2" in diameter but the retaining ring adds another 1/4 inch - I actually cut off two of the projections.

In fact - over all the damn dash mounted gauge is more stressful and friggin around than the supercharger. The funny spring retained clip on the right side of the dash panel - 20 minutes looking in a mirror to see if it is in place. Drop a screw in the engine compartment - usually hits the floor - drop one down under the damn seats
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      02-06-2013, 11:52 PM   #36
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Looks awesome!!
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      02-07-2013, 12:54 PM   #37
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Thanks - ordered the - can't remember the name for the bezel colour but I thought it would be more like the ones on the tach and speedometer - too shiny

Will dull it up and make it closer to OEM with some 1500 grit wet sandpaper. :thump:

Going to paint inside of bezel flat black ? LEAve well enough alone
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Last edited by drbvac; 02-07-2013 at 04:29 PM. Reason: add pic
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      02-07-2013, 04:23 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches View Post
3D Design ash tray pod, and pending the results of this thread, I might mount a gauge in the same place as the OP. Non-M's really need four gauges IMHO - oil pressure, oil temp, boost, and AFR. While the AEM failsafe has both boost and AFR readouts, I'm not sure the boost resolution is there for those of us running 6-10 psi, and I prefer an analog needle for certain things. The pod with an additional dash gauge would be perfect in that it would provide four spots.

A little OT - I checked out Speed Hut thanks to this thread. They have some awesome customization options. The more I think about it, the more I'm inclined to side with OP as far as wanting analog gauges. I've always been drawn to knobs over push buttons, and swinging needles over a digital readout. It's much easier to glance down and immediately know if things are normal by the position of the needle. Digital gauges require an extra step of mental processing, unless they have a sweeping LED (which still isn't as good as a needle). If you set up your gauges properly, all the needles should point in the same direction during normal conditions - for example, 12 o'clock is normal operating temp for oil and coolant, and the oil pressure median is around 12 o'clock. When you look down, all needles should be pointing towards 12 o'clock. You can quickly determine if a needle is out of place, and if the reading is high or low. You could use any value for the normal conditions (9 o'clock is common in aircraft), just make sure all the gauges are oriented the same direction. I'd say the exception is for wideband, because we're programmed to want to see a specific number. With the Speed Hut gauges, I'm able to customize gauges that point a specific direction during normal operation, based on scale and range. Oh yeah, it helps that you can add your own logo. VF Engineering will be getting free advertising out of my gauge setup . I don't know why supercharger companies don't offer the option of purchasing a boost gauge with their logo on it.
Agree on the gauges. The ashtray gauge & pods cosmetically are fine but as discussed are in your field of view. Please post when you finish your project. One of these days I plan on doing gauges also, just not sure how/where as of yet. Thanks

OP Looks good and functional.
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      02-07-2013, 09:18 PM   #39
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Completed

Well = guess it was worth it and can't drive the car out of the garage for another 3 months = getting 2 feet of snow tomorrow.



One of those things you think is fairly simple - not.

Speedhut has sone great combination gauges - 2 and 4 different in same face.

Good stuff.
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