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      12-21-2012, 04:27 PM   #23
Beedub
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Originally Posted by beta View Post
F yeah! That's great news. Even if they end up overly stiff with your heavy power if they manage to control the NVH it won't really matter. If anything it'll be better for us when the inevitable power addiction sets in

Can't wait.
Nor can i, will report back on the mounts!! BTW just checked these dont raise or lower engine height which is imo important... and they dont, so anyone interested in the race mounts, ill test them and report back...

OP did anyone of the m3 guys install the race mounts??
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      12-21-2012, 05:43 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
Nor can i, will report back on the mounts!! BTW just checked these dont raise or lower engine height which is imo important... and they dont, so anyone interested in the race mounts, ill test them and report back...

OP did anyone of the m3 guys install the race mounts??
Not that I am aware of. I'm pretty sure they are new to the M3 crowd also.
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      12-21-2012, 08:53 PM   #25
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Ordered race mounts!

NVH who cares,its a f%cken high performance car!
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      12-22-2012, 01:07 AM   #26
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argh i just bought black 95A black AKG motor mounts to suit the ESS VT2-500
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      12-22-2012, 03:30 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by 22022
Ordered race mounts!

NVH who cares,its a f%cken high performance car!
Baller...........
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      12-22-2012, 09:06 AM   #28
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Here is some extra info from questions asked on M3 Forum (and answers from Phil at Vibra-Technics):

"How much is it for the replacement inserts for your motor mounts as well?
And what are the life expectancy of these mounts vs oem motor mounts?"

Its hard to tell life expectancy, we have not seen a failed mount yet in normal service. The only parts we have seen with damaged rubber are from crash damaged parts from the track. They were re-built with new inserts. The inserts are around $60 a car set.

"And is there a DIY on how to replace the rubber insert ?"

The only slight difficulty in rebuilding is holding the top cap. We use an assembly jig with a 3 jaw chuck to hold the top cap whilst you unscrew the centre bolt. The 4 m6 bolts holding the top mount ring in place are easy to remove but you nee to hold the body somehow.

"Are there any specific signs of failure that I should look for to know when to buy replacement inserts for the mounts?"

The only sign you would get if there were a failure of the rubber mount is a significant increase in noise because something would be touching inside the mount. It cannot pull apart in any case so its completely fail safe.

Also Interlagos08 stated that "just so everyone knows, they are off for holidays, and will be back after the new year, however the discount period will end 1/13/13 providing the world wont end." So it you may not be able to ask questions until then. If anything else pops up in the M3F topic, I'll let you guys know.

I also added some info to the OP.
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      12-22-2012, 09:26 AM   #29
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well, ive had a quick peek at the car this morning..... think im going to drop the subframe.... this way i wont have to move/release loads of different items.....
Doing a quick search seems that the engine needs to be lifted quite some way, which i dont want to do really, my luck i'll snap a hose or worse, snap some wire somewhere!!!, lol!!!
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      12-22-2012, 09:55 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
well, ive had a quick peek at the car this morning..... think im going to drop the subframe.... this way i wont have to move/release loads of different items.....
Doing a quick search seems that the engine needs to be lifted quite some way, which i dont want to do really, my luck i'll snap a hose or worse, snap some wire somewhere!!!, lol!!!
I'll be doing mine same time as headers, so definitely will drop the subframe.

You may be able to avoid jacking the motor if you remove the 4 motor mount bolts at the block.
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      12-22-2012, 11:10 AM   #31
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Got my email reply,Phil recommend street mounts.

And must be referring to Beedub in the last paragraph.



(I if its used on track days then I still recommend the street mounts. They can be rebuilt so they could be upgraded at a later date.

I am trying to get a back to back comparison of road and versions on a Z4 on the forum in the near future.

Kind regards

Phil B)
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      12-22-2012, 11:40 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22022 View Post
Got my email reply,Phil recommend street mounts.

And must be referring to Beedub in the last paragraph.



(I if its used on track days then I still recommend the street mounts. They can be rebuilt so they could be upgraded at a later date.

I am trying to get a back to back comparison of road and versions on a Z4 on the forum in the near future.

Kind regards

Phil B)
once ive done the back to back its the street that i'll be using i think... as my mounts only have 10k miles i'll put the race ones on first to get the measure of things....
have you changed your mind and gone with street or still going race???
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Last edited by Beedub; 12-22-2012 at 11:57 AM.
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      12-22-2012, 03:43 PM   #33
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And here is some more info!

If you're on the fence on this group buy, you should really join up. If we sell a lot of engine mounts they're more likely to make us a crossmember which has a good chance of fixing our shifting issues and the 1->2 grind.

Quote:
Basic geometry of the Z4 mount system.

The Z4 has a effectively a three point mount system (even though it uses 4 mounts) The front two mounts are hydraulic. The damping fluid is glycol and this is used to isolate low frequency high amplitude vibration that occurs around idle. This is often referred to as idle shake. At higher frequencies the damping is de-coupled and the rubber does the damping and control of movement. The engine mounts have a similar stiffness in both the vertical and horizontal directions and it is the front mounts that control accelerating, braking and corner forces as well as engine torque and weight. They are not fail safe and engine repeated high engine load, or overrun can put one mount in tension (torque overcoming the static engine weight) which eventually causes the rubber to split.

The gearbox mounts use a "bobbin" type rubber mount. These are stiff in compression and soft in shear. They are arranged in a "V" formation which means they are in both shear and compression at the same time the two mounts effectively make a single support. This is a classic and well proven arrangement. Transverse and vertical forces are supported extremely well but the mounts do not take any accelerating and braking because this is the shear direction where they are the softest. The also are very soft in the roll direction so torsional vibration is not transmitted into gearbox crossmember and into the car. These mounts are also not fail safe and if the rubber or rubber/metal bond fails the mounts will pull apart.

Poly mounts copy the geometry and have the same stiffness ratio. In effect you get none of the benefits of a stiffer mount and all of the disadvantages of poly in vibration transmission (poly has poor resilience so transmits much more vibration).
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      12-22-2012, 04:32 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
And here is some more info!

If you're on the fence on this group buy, you should really join up. If we sell a lot of engine mounts they're more likely to make us a crossmember which has a good chance of fixing our shifting issues and the 1->2 grind.
^ that would be great!
Is there any chance that the E46 M3 uses the same cross member?
That would definitely help.


I can't wait to get these on the car
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      12-22-2012, 07:29 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
once ive done the back to back its the street that i'll be using i think... as my mounts only have 10k miles i'll put the race ones on first to get the measure of things....
have you changed your mind and gone with street or still going race???
Change my mind going with Phil's recommendations and install street ,i guess i can upgrade later.
I still have my stock mounts with 60,000 kilometers.
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      12-23-2012, 05:34 AM   #36
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Change my mind going with Phil's recommendations and install street ,i guess i can upgrade later.
I still have my stock mounts with 60,000 kilometers.
think thats probably the best solution.....when you look at the compression on the street Vs the stock units..... i think the race will be too much.

What i would like to know is how much stiffer in percentage the street and race versions are over the stock units.... im looking forward to getting the xmas period over so i can get these in :-)
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      12-23-2012, 01:39 PM   #37
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PMd a few people that I saw complain about the grind so that hopefully we can get this GB moving in the right direction.

I think the holidays are working against us, but I'm really excited about a potential solution to the biggest complaint in the Z4M (the dreaded grind). This post also explains why stiffer mounts do not solve the issue.

edit: fixed link, thanks integr8r.
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      12-23-2012, 10:01 PM   #38
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Link not working
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      12-24-2012, 12:43 PM   #39
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      12-25-2012, 11:28 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
PMd a few people that I saw complain about the grind so that hopefully we can get this GB moving in the right direction.

I think the holidays are working against us, but I'm really excited about a potential solution to the biggest complaint in the Z4M (the dreaded grind). This post also explains why stiffer mounts do not solve the issue.

edit: fixed link, thanks integr8r.
Got your PM mate and as others said this seems very promising and i'd be willing to give it a shot. I have Roque Engineering transmission mounts right now and it still grinds. Perhaps with these engine mounts and perhaps the possible transmission mounts i'd be cured.

There's the problem of me being halfway round the world though. If UK was included i'd have them ship them there and have one of my mates send them over..........

I'll email them for other possible options... Byron is there anything you can arrange perhaps?

Giannis
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      12-25-2012, 02:39 PM   #41
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Got your PM mate and as others said this seems very promising and i'd be willing to give it a shot. I have Roque Engineering transmission mounts right now and it still grinds. Perhaps with these engine mounts and perhaps the possible transmission mounts i'd be cured.

There's the problem of me being halfway round the world though. If UK was included i'd have them ship them there and have one of my mates send them over..........

I'll email them for other possible options... Byron is there anything you can arrange perhaps?

Giannis
im on this bro :-) will update you shortly :-)
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      12-28-2012, 01:29 AM   #42
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Sweet deal! I will highly consider this before the discount ends...
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      12-28-2012, 07:23 PM   #43
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Too bad these beauties get buried under the car.
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      12-28-2012, 08:31 PM   #44
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Too bad these beauties get buried under the car.
Do these replace the motor mounts that have had bolts backing out?

Integr8r where are you having your install done in GTA?
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