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      01-08-2013, 09:47 PM   #23
Shipkiller
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From my documentation, BMW recommends a plug gap on the N52 of .043 and for the M54 of .032.

I will research this more.
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      01-09-2013, 12:03 AM   #24
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Great write-up!
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      01-09-2013, 03:24 PM   #25
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So, fueling the anti-seize component of this thread... why don't suppliers promote the use of an anti-sieze and post torque specs accordingly? What would be possible negative affects of using anti-seize as long as appropriate torque specs are communicated?
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      01-09-2013, 05:07 PM   #26
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Because every type of anti-seize (formula) would have a different running running torque and clamping torque, and this type of testing would dramatically increase the cost of said lubricant. Since most mass produced lubricants are manufactured to the lowest cost, the torque values would not be consistent from one type of fastener to the next.

The only thread lubricant that I personally know of that publishes this data is ARP and it's lubricant is significantly more expensive than the stuff you buy off the shelf at an autoparts store. There may be others but that's the only one (ARP) I know of.


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      01-10-2013, 01:10 AM   #27
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the only type of wet-torque ratings I've seen are where a manufacturer of a component specifies the exact lubricant to use. I see these kinds of situations at work once in a while from high pressure component suppliers
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      01-10-2013, 11:54 AM   #28
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OP Great write up, thanks.
Anti seize discussion was very educational, thanks to those who contributed.

Between the NGK and Bosch plugs which are specified as oem, is there a preferred choice for the 3.0i? 3.0Si? The M?
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      03-10-2013, 03:34 PM   #29
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Changing Sparkplugs for Dummies.... Awesome, now even I can do this...Thank you!
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      03-13-2013, 01:30 AM   #30
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Spark Plug Socket

I got one of these and I think I got my 15 clams worth.
Extra long for our deep tubes and has a magnet that holds the plug quite well while being no-touch on the ceramic.

FWIW I clean the coil and the plug with alcohol then run a little dielectric grease up the coil snout and around the part that seats into the top of the tube. Not aware that it's ever caused any electrical issues, and it sure makes it a lot easier to get apart next time.
And after almost stripping the head on my MR2 trying to get seized plugs out, I always use a little anti-seize, but I only torque to 16 ft*lbs.
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      08-07-2013, 03:21 PM   #31
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I did this job yesterday on my '08 coupe. It took about 45 minutes in total. The single electrode NGKs are gapped to .043". Mine were correct out of the box. It helps to remove the right strut support rod. Like others here, I use a q-tip to run a little silicone brake caliper grease (inert and it has a very high melting point) in the snout and inside the rubber seal at the top. Having raced a variety of cars over the years with aluminum heads, I always use a anti-seize (sparingly) on the threads. I torqued all six to 10 lb/ft and then to 16lb/ft. The plugs that I removed were probably the originals and had no lubrication. They were the same NGK part number but with a "BMW" logo on the side. The breakaway torque to get them to release was surprisingly high although they all came out cleanly. As almost all of the thread was uniformly brown, I would presume that they were lubed with engine oil before installation.

I have had galled threads on a number of Formula Vee heads over the years (and even old Porsches) and have never experienced an electrical issue with anti-seize. The torque sequence that I use has worked for years, even in these very old aluminum heads. It is my understanding that spark plugs utilize the long thread to provide a gas seal and the crush washer to provide the locking moment.

Just my 2 cents. I thought it was a very good article. I would be curious about others experience with after market coils.

Last edited by papak; 08-07-2013 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Additional comments
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      11-24-2013, 03:24 PM   #32
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I liked that you posted the pics. Great job! I do things different but who cares. I use anti sieze and so do most mechanics. Changing the ground of the plug? Come on these cars are not the NASA space shuttle.
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      11-24-2013, 06:05 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyf View Post
Come on these cars are not the NASA space shuttle.
In some respects, they are more advanced. The DME is probably 50X more powerful than the three redundant flight computers in the shuttle.
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      11-24-2013, 09:21 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
In some respects, they are more advanced. The DME is probably 50X more powerful than the three redundant flight computers in the shuttle.
I do get what some are saying, sometimes after the job is done whatever it is it can sure keep a guy up at night thinking about how he should have done it!
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      04-11-2017, 09:04 AM   #35
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I changed my spark plugs in my Z4M 5 days ago. My fingers are still healing. First two DIC's (starting at the front) came out with some tugging twisting and pulling. Got to the 3rd, almost gave up. Pelican Parts has a step by step M guide. They suggested using a flat head screwdriver VERY CAREFULLY on the underside top edges of the DIC. I was remembering how I could not get off my wiper blade arms for recent cowl replacement (just realized that THAT TOOL may have worked). Anyway, I could not get the DIC to pop off. Ended up using some thin Channel Locks. I was very careful to NOT SQUEEZE HARD while pulling straight up. Still had to twist while pulling and although I probably spent 1/2 an hour on it, it popped off. I expected to see a melted/arced/damaged boot, but it was fine. DIC nearest the cabin was also very difficult, (strut tower brace blocks it somewhat) as there is no space for the fingers to get a good hold on these 2 particular areas.

I have NOW done some research on the tool for pulling these, apparently BMW makes a plastic tool and I found metal ones, but they seemed to be made for motorcycles. Do some research and it might be wise to invest in this type of tool, I know I would have had I known how hard these were to pull off. I have 3 healing scabs on my fingers that think so too.

Last edited by JJZ4MR; 04-11-2017 at 03:10 PM.
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      04-11-2017, 12:36 PM   #36
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I can relate to removal of the coil/plug boots on a neglected motor.

I am now in the habit of putting a thin coating of dielectric grease on the boot and the plug terminal for future happiness.
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      04-24-2017, 03:24 PM   #37
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^That's what I do, but it's only a partial solution.
You end up with a hard vacuum and they're still a biatch to get out.
I don't think you're supposed to twist them, but, yea ... right.
When they finally come loose it sounds like opening a bottle of champagne.
And be careful when you put the coils back in with grease. There's air trapped in there and they want to walk back out.
Have to keep pushing them down until all the air works out. It's like whack-a-mole.
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